I've Gone and Done Something Mental

[ajlelectronics]

The Micro Swiss is mostly installed. The X and Y origins need to be tweaked now, but I can't find the correct version of source code to do it with. All that there is on the Creality site is complied versions and the original factory source code. I need the source code which includes the BL Touch.

I am not keen on the design that means running the filament through the same tortuous path as before. I have turned around the spool holder and the filament now runs direct to the extruder.

 

[carbon]

Can you install marlin on this printer? If you can then there are lots of options available that can change the origins and bltouch etc but it can be a steep learning curve

 

[brewdexta]

I've got the ender 3 pro with BL touch and micros swiss hot end. But I had the earlier ender 3 with old board so I updated it to a bigtreetech board.

I had to download Marlin and compile my own binary.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Can you install marlin on this printer? If you can then there are lots of options available that can change the origins and bltouch etc but it can be a steep learning curve

Apparently so. The firmware isn't an issue, I am well versed in C++ as it drives my Ibus interfaces that I designed and build. This is the compliled code that I am running, I think...

Ender3 V2-4.2.7-TMC2225​

Marlin_2.0.1-BL-Touch-V1.1.1(without adapter board)​

 

[ajlelectronics]

I've got the ender 3 pro with BL touch and micros swiss hot end. But I had the earlier ender 3 with old board so I updated it to a bigtreetech board.

I had to download Marlin and compile my own binary.

Where did you find the source code please?

 

[brewdexta]

Where did you find the source code please?

Github is the place to go

I'm working away at the moment so can't check definitively, but most suggest you start with the bug fix branch, however the following link suggests they have fixed some issues

GitHub - mriscoc/Ender3V2S1: This is optimized firmware for Ender3 V2/S1 3D printers.

This is optimized firmware for Ender3 V2/S1 3D printers. - mriscoc/Ender3V2S1

github.com

if you search for "marlin bugfix github ender 3-bltouch" you get lots of hits.

There are loads of howto videos on youtube to speed up the process, tells you which header files to edit etc.

EDIT

this guys upgrade his ender 3 to the new creality quiet main board and added a bltouch and micro swiss, so probably identical to the board you have

I usually prefer this guy's tutorials

https://www.youtube.com/c/TeachingTech/search?query=bltouch%20microswiss

 

[ChrisBailey]

The Micro Swiss is mostly installed. The X and Y origins need to be tweaked now, but I can't find the correct version of source code to do it with. All that there is on the Creality site is complied versions and the original factory source code. I need the source code which includes the BL Touch.

I am not keen on the design that means running the filament through the same tortuous path as before. I have turned around the spool holder and the filament now runs direct to the extruder.

View attachment 318320

View attachment 318321

I recommend a roller bearing filament spool holder.
Loads on thingiverse that fit the ender 3 original spool holder.

I printed the the remote spool holder, using them to hold a 3kg spool.

 

[ajlelectronics]

It would seem that my learning curve has gone back to the beginning with the Micro Swiss. I have carefully levelled, set the correct Z offset and checked everything was as it should be. First print was some quick nose clips which looked good. They were standard PLA. They didn't want to come off the bed and any effort pulled them apart at the laminations.

I then printed a temperature tower which was inconclusive really. Print quality was largely the same until 180 when it wouldn't extrude any more. There was no stringing at any level. All levels were soft, but 220 was the best for strength. I then printed the famous boobies and found those soft too (well what did I expect? ;-) ).

Next print after checking the Z offset again and backing it off a touch was the Chameleon. Once again it wouldn't release from the bed, despite refridgeration and gentle tapping around the base. A little more percussion with a scraper helped but the first layer remained stuck and the other bottom layers delaminated. The model broke off its base too.

I can't believe that 220C isn't adequate as I was printing at 205C for good results with the Bowden system.

 

[carbon]

You might have to look at hotend pid tuning and adjust the marlin values accordingly.

 

[m_c]

Did you fit an all metal hotend?
if you did, then it needs to be run slightly hotter.

I'd suggest you either try some 3DLAC, or invest in a sprung steel printing plate for items with large contact areas.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Did you fit an all metal hotend?
if you did, then it needs to be run slightly hotter.

Agreed, but in excess of 15C hotter?

I'd suggest you either try some 3DLAC, or invest in a sprung steel printing plate for items with large contact areas.

I have some 3DLAC so will have to use that. I bought it because I had little adhesion originally, now I can't get the damn prints off!

 

[ajlelectronics]

You might have to look at hotend pid tuning and adjust the marlin values accordingly.

Thanks for that, I will read up on it.

 

[brewdexta]

I've got the standard Ender 3 glass mat with the Micro-Swiss hot end/extruder and have no issues with standard PLA prints sticking. Depending on the print, I sometimes use a bit of bed glue or a raft to aid adhesion and avoid warping. I did go through PID tuning and changing retraction settings in the slicer etc. on installation.

 

[ChrisBailey]

Did you change your esteps?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Did you change your esteps?

Yes, it ended up at 137.7.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I've got the standard Ender 3 glass mat with the Micro-Swiss hot end/extruder and have no issues with standard PLA prints sticking. Depending on the print, I sometimes use a bit of bed glue or a raft to aid adhesion and avoid warping. I did go through PID tuning and changing retraction settings in the slicer etc. on installation.

I am regretting the "upgrade" and am considering reverting back to standard. However I'm not well currently so probably I just need a bit more patience with it. If I feel up to it, I will have another tweak tonight.

The PID tuning looks a bit involved and my brain can't process that at the moment. :-(

 

[brewdexta]

Not sure if this will help but I think I used the PID tuning plug-in for Octoprint, it was a while ago and I'm still working away so can't check. I guess this assumes you have Octoprint, if not that should be your next mod, makes life much easier and there are some well cool plug-ins.

The micro-swiss is definitely worth persevering with if you have got this far. Get well soon.

 

[Bullet2012]

 

[ChrisBailey]

Good deal on box at the moment. Do we have anymore takers.

Box Ltd

 

[bigegg]

I'm not sure if anyone else is painting their prints, but after an afternoon's experimenting, Ronseal "one coat all surface primer" (£10/750ml at The Range) is *excellent* for resin prints. It even airbrushes when watered down about 10-15% with dilute windscreen washer fluid (use the cheap stuff which is basically alcohol+water, not the expensive stuff with detergents and additives)