- Thread starter GG1
- Start date
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,833
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
I built my own, actually I designed it, and farmed it out to a local fab shop.
what are your concerns ?
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,833
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
1. the water doesn't get that hot, mine has about 4" deep water.
How deep are you planning on making this ?
2. the steel slag I the slat supports will corrode it badly if made from aluminum.
Vmax1974
Member
- Messages
- 127
- Location
- Teesside UK
A good point you make there. I will maybe get some stainless
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,833
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
No need to go overboard.
Just make it from mild steel. I blasted mine to white, and used some kind of epoxy paint.
we will see how it holds up.
if it fails in a few years, I have some changes I want to make anyhow (overflow drain for one, wider side edges, etc.)
I'm sure you'll want to make a few changes after you get some experience using it.
Hil... Looks awesome. My build is about ready to assemble. I am using the GX12 connectors in my controller box. Would like to use them on the motors like you have done. Where did you find the STL files for the custom enclosures or did you design them yourself? Are you willing to part with the STL files? Thank you.Hello,
I'm new here. I stumbled upon this topic while doing some additional research of the JD's Garage plasma cutter.
So I said to my self why not to contribute and share some, ideas, problems etc. of my build.
While mounting and adjusting the Y bearing blocks I was having some troubles. Now when pretty much all of the mechanics are put together I noticed that one of the fixed shaft bearings is not in contact with the tube.
I'm not 100 % sure but I think it's like that from the beginning. As far as I remember I was not able to set the preloads so that it would make contact with the tube despite doing it block by block (removed from gantry).
I don't know why that happened. Maybe it was because of some strange hole misalignment. I did need to manually ream (with a 8 mm reamer) the holes in order to fit the rods.
I don't like the actual design, because it's virtually impossible to remove the rods. They overlap each other which makes drilling a hole from the other side impossible and it's also not possible to grab them and pull them out, especially with a tight fit.
Do you think that is it worth taking it apart again or leave it as it is, as it shouldn't make any difference?
My modifications are the following:
-Extended to maximum working area as per the plans.
-Galvanized metal tubes instead of raw ones. (Should be better than paint and it was way cheaper then stainless.)
-Custom plastic inserts with leveling fit.
-Longer legs for normal working height.
-Bottom leg braces for the rigidity and a shelf in order to put the Power source and water tank on.
-Rivet nuts instead of plastic spacers and nuts. (Those spacers are a poor design if you asked me, because you basically put zero force on the tube. Spacers should be inside the tube as I made them for the X axis. 3D printed block with tight fit, a hole and a relief groves for the tube seem.)
-Counterweight for the X axis. (I welded it together then while making the 3D printed end covers I said to my self it looks like something, so why not.)
-Custom tensioners (Original design has no flat surface for the mounting bolts heads to lay on.)
-X axis belt guides holes with threads only in the plastic part, because it makes no sense to have a thread in both (metal and plastic) and then you put a screw through both. That will work only if you tap them when assembled, otherwise it would cause a cross-thread.
-GX12 connectors with custom enclosures.
-Local made controller with torch height control.
I'm waiting for the electronics cabinet to arrive, so that I can start with wiring. I also need to figure out the pan dimensions so that I can order the cutting and bending of the edges. That way I will weld only the vertical edges which will save me time and prevent distortions. It will probably also minimise the probability of a leaky weld.I wonder what thickness of steel to use for the pan, because I have quite a big span? It will only hold the water (slats go from edge to edge, so it will be supported by the rails), but this is going to be quite some mass? Maybe I will need to weld some reinforcements on the bottom of the pan.
View attachment 423478
View attachment 423479View attachment 423486
View attachment 423480View attachment 423481View attachment 423482View attachment 423483View attachment 423484View attachment 423485
krisdupreysgarage
New Member
- Messages
- 2
- Location
- Northern Ireland
This forum is great, I got a lathe last month and there’s loads of posts on my specific model, and now I’ve bought the plans for this CNC, and this thread is here.
Could someone send the link for the smaller motor if possible? I’m only seeing the 1.9nm motor with a 6.35mm shaft, I’m possibly looking for the wrong thing!
Thanks in advance
Kris
Could someone send the link for the smaller motor if possible? I’m only seeing the 1.9nm motor with a 6.35mm shaft, I’m possibly looking for the wrong thing!
Thanks in advance
Kris
Vmax1974
Member
- Messages
- 127
- Location
- Teesside UK
I bought this one
8.99ï¿¡ 3% OFF|Two Phase 57 Stepper Motor | Nema 23 57 Stepper Motor | Machine 57 Stepper Motor - 57 - Aliexpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
6,35mm is diameter of the shaft of the motor. It doesnt matter if its 6,35 or 8mm as long as you got the right gt2 pulley with the right bore.
I didn't powdercoat mine, but I think its a bad idea. The surface should be as "clean" as possible for the bearings.
I went with stainless in the end. I replace the original mild steel axis rails/tubes with stainless beacuse I wasnt satisfied with smoothness of the movement, which was especially visible at the end of x axis arm.
That could be due to big difference in quality/tolerances of mild steel tubes compared to their stainless counterparts in my area, but the difference in "quality" of movement was huge
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
solarguy2003
New Member
- Messages
- 2
- Location
- US
I bought the plans and am collecting bits and pieces. But I also plan on making the bearing blocks out of aluminum. I have a home foundry and have cast a fair amount of things.
One possible method is to 3d print the bearing blocks and then use those as a pattern to cast them in greensand. However, due to the unavoidable shrinkage of the aluminum, I was wondering if anyone has a drawing and dimensions for the bearing blocks. I'm sure I could print them, and then reverse engineer the optimal dimensions to end up with a good casting, but if a drawing with dimensions is already floating around, I am not opposed to saving time.
By way of introduction in my first post, I'm an optometrist (somewhat retired) and I also have a nice machine shop. But no plasma table, which would really add a lot to the workshop's capabilities.
One possible method is to 3d print the bearing blocks and then use those as a pattern to cast them in greensand. However, due to the unavoidable shrinkage of the aluminum, I was wondering if anyone has a drawing and dimensions for the bearing blocks. I'm sure I could print them, and then reverse engineer the optimal dimensions to end up with a good casting, but if a drawing with dimensions is already floating around, I am not opposed to saving time.
By way of introduction in my first post, I'm an optometrist (somewhat retired) and I also have a nice machine shop. But no plasma table, which would really add a lot to the workshop's capabilities.
solarguy2003
New Member
- Messages
- 2
- Location
- US
By "plans", I mean the plans from JD's Garage if that wasn't clear.
Hey,
Like GG1 - I'm gathering up for 1250x1250mm build.
One challenge of mine, would be to make an 1980's Miller 40A Air-cut (father of the Plazcut I think) to work with it all...
Great ideas to adopt here, tnx to all contributors!
Like GG1 - I'm gathering up for 1250x1250mm build.
One challenge of mine, would be to make an 1980's Miller 40A Air-cut (father of the Plazcut I think) to work with it all...
Great ideas to adopt here, tnx to all contributors!
After some people showed interest in this project on a couple of other threads, I thought I'd start a new one here to document the (hopefully to one day be actually finished) build.
Summary so far:
I purchased the plans after seeing JD's Garage many Youtube videos about the table they developed:
Plans available here (I have no afiliation):
GEN 2.0 CNC Plasma Cutter Plans, includes .stl files for printing
GENERATION 2.0 *****This product is online access only***** **If you have the original plan package, you do not need 2.0 to complete and use your...jdsgarage.bigcartel.com
The plans are in both Imperial and Metric for a 28" x 32" table (can be scaled scale up) and include optional Z axis and rotary axis for pipe notching.
View attachment 417777
