Sandehopper
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I used 2 rolls of PETG for all the big parts. There was enough for everything except the end caps.
Sandehopper
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Thanks for the reply , I will start learning how to print 3D stuff this week end with a small part to see if I will do this or just buy parts from JD Garage
I can print if you are stuck.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Will you be progressing with the cutter tomorrow ? Soup is made & curing .
Brilliant indeed so
Hey guys, I am new to the forum, I'm an Australian(Aussie). I recently also purchased the JD's Garage Plasma Cutter Plans. I'm in the process of printing the 3D models. So far the prints are turning out good. I'm still in the process of ordering materials for the build, its always a challenge with work/family/life in between it all but I will get there.
I really wanted a strong material for printing these so I ended up getting some "tough pla". After a fair bit of calibrating and lots of test cube prints, was able to get it to print really precise. Very chuffed with the result thus far.
I know the plans say for all of the plate/sheet metal brackets etc to use 3mm steel, however I was hoping I can get some feedback from some of you who have finished the build, is there any reason why 2mm plate wouldn't work in terms of alignment/calibrations? I have a huge stainless steel unit at home from another project and its all 2mm. I'm thinking the strength of the stainless should be just as strong as 3mm mild steel if not stronger and just wondering what your feedback is on the idea of using this material instead? I know it means I am using my stainless but its a huge bit of scrap just collecting dust and it didn't cost me anything. It has been in storage for over 3 years untouched. Would you guys think there is any issues with using it instead of the 3mm mild steel?
I have tig/mig/stick welders so I won't have an issue with the welding side of it.
Have attached my 3D prints thus far(day 2 of printing).
I really wanted a strong material for printing these so I ended up getting some "tough pla". After a fair bit of calibrating and lots of test cube prints, was able to get it to print really precise. Very chuffed with the result thus far.
I know the plans say for all of the plate/sheet metal brackets etc to use 3mm steel, however I was hoping I can get some feedback from some of you who have finished the build, is there any reason why 2mm plate wouldn't work in terms of alignment/calibrations? I have a huge stainless steel unit at home from another project and its all 2mm. I'm thinking the strength of the stainless should be just as strong as 3mm mild steel if not stronger and just wondering what your feedback is on the idea of using this material instead? I know it means I am using my stainless but its a huge bit of scrap just collecting dust and it didn't cost me anything. It has been in storage for over 3 years untouched. Would you guys think there is any issues with using it instead of the 3mm mild steel?
I have tig/mig/stick welders so I won't have an issue with the welding side of it.
Have attached my 3D prints thus far(day 2 of printing).
Mr Someone
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I think it should be fine with 2 mm stainless.
I used PETG for printed parts. It's recommended by the JD's garage to use larger nozzle diamater, because the parts are stronger. I used 0,6 mm nozzle and even 0,8 mm for some parts. It's also recommend to use a sufficient number of perimeters.
I have a 3D printer for years and simply don't bother with PLA. PETG is not brittle, it can withstand higher temperatures, it does not degrade and it's fairly easy to print.
I wouldn't bother with tolerances to much, because after all you will need to rim some holles anyway.
I used PETG for printed parts. It's recommended by the JD's garage to use larger nozzle diamater, because the parts are stronger. I used 0,6 mm nozzle and even 0,8 mm for some parts. It's also recommend to use a sufficient number of perimeters.
I have a 3D printer for years and simply don't bother with PLA. PETG is not brittle, it can withstand higher temperatures, it does not degrade and it's fairly easy to print.
I wouldn't bother with tolerances to much, because after all you will need to rim some holles anyway.
Thanks @Mr Someone,
Yes, I understand, I did read JDG's instructions, they do say they used tough PLA in their build "We used 3D Fuel PLA to make our own plasma table and with all the parts we ship out. PLA was chosen because it is cost effective, prints great, and is quite rigid compared to most other filaments. Since the parts will live most of their lives under a static load, we can sacrifice the brittleness of PLA in favor of its rigidity".
JDG use 2.85mm filament but state "1.75mm filament will also work". If JDG use 2.85mm filament with a 0.8mm nozzle at a layer height of 0.4mm, then I think If I use 1.75mm filament with 0.4mm nozzle at a layer height of 0.2mm would be still okay, as long as I don't make it a solid file and follow JDG advice in terms of perimeter walls, grid infill & temperatures. I think at this stage my prints seem sufficient. At the end of the day it is all trial and error it will either work well or fail. I can always re-print it if required. Even change it out to PETG in future. You are probably 100% accurate about the 3D prints I have made failing but I am interested in the results of wear and tear.
I'm really keen to start cutting up some stainless but I'm back to work for another 5 days as of tomorrow unfortunately.
Yes, I understand, I did read JDG's instructions, they do say they used tough PLA in their build "We used 3D Fuel PLA to make our own plasma table and with all the parts we ship out. PLA was chosen because it is cost effective, prints great, and is quite rigid compared to most other filaments. Since the parts will live most of their lives under a static load, we can sacrifice the brittleness of PLA in favor of its rigidity".
JDG use 2.85mm filament but state "1.75mm filament will also work". If JDG use 2.85mm filament with a 0.8mm nozzle at a layer height of 0.4mm, then I think If I use 1.75mm filament with 0.4mm nozzle at a layer height of 0.2mm would be still okay, as long as I don't make it a solid file and follow JDG advice in terms of perimeter walls, grid infill & temperatures. I think at this stage my prints seem sufficient. At the end of the day it is all trial and error it will either work well or fail. I can always re-print it if required. Even change it out to PETG in future. You are probably 100% accurate about the 3D prints I have made failing but I am interested in the results of wear and tear.
I'm really keen to start cutting up some stainless but I'm back to work for another 5 days as of tomorrow unfortunately.
I finished this build a few weeks ago, and I have put it through a few working hours.
All in all I am very satisfied with the product, and I would deffinetly recommend it.
Jds garage plans and instructions are very detailed and I didn't have any major trouble following it, eventough my knowledge in electronics, 3d printing and CNC in general is pretty limited.
To have a working CNC plasma in your workshop that you yourself build is a pretty great feeling.
If I could do it so can anybody else
That being said, you must do your due dillingence and know some rudimentary stuff. Your are playing with electricity and fire after all. If something is unclear, youtube is your friend. God knows I searched and read a lot (some good advice from members of this topic also, thanks)
3d printed parts are suprisingly to me holding up pretty well.
All except a torch holder, who cought on fire and melted. I made a new one out of the mild steel tube and a screw.
To be fair i did try to cut 10mm mild steel sheet, I didnt yet had a waterbed and 3d printing material I use was PLA.
But in my opinion this table as is intended, is good for cutting materials for up to 5-6 mm..
For anything above you have to make upgrades..
For instance, according to plans, frame tubing is made out of 50x50x1,5..
I would (and I did) definetly go with something beefier for the frame, especially if you intend to cut heavier material.
Precion wise, I am satasfied. The machine is precise as much as you were while you were building it, and that's fair
I do intend to upgrade some things in the future.
All in all I am very satisfied with the product, and I would deffinetly recommend it.
Jds garage plans and instructions are very detailed and I didn't have any major trouble following it, eventough my knowledge in electronics, 3d printing and CNC in general is pretty limited.
To have a working CNC plasma in your workshop that you yourself build is a pretty great feeling.
If I could do it so can anybody else
That being said, you must do your due dillingence and know some rudimentary stuff. Your are playing with electricity and fire after all. If something is unclear, youtube is your friend. God knows I searched and read a lot (some good advice from members of this topic also, thanks)
3d printed parts are suprisingly to me holding up pretty well.
All except a torch holder, who cought on fire and melted. I made a new one out of the mild steel tube and a screw.
To be fair i did try to cut 10mm mild steel sheet, I didnt yet had a waterbed and 3d printing material I use was PLA.
But in my opinion this table as is intended, is good for cutting materials for up to 5-6 mm..
For anything above you have to make upgrades..
For instance, according to plans, frame tubing is made out of 50x50x1,5..
I would (and I did) definetly go with something beefier for the frame, especially if you intend to cut heavier material.
Precion wise, I am satasfied. The machine is precise as much as you were while you were building it, and that's fair
I do intend to upgrade some things in the future.
Vmax1974
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- Teesside UK
Hey chaps. I've had the plans for a while and I've ordered the printed parts. So I'm on my way to starting, but I'm struggling with finding a suitable Plasma for a decent price. What are people planning on using? Links would be helpful pretty please
Erie Fred
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Well, you can start by putting out some numbers.
1. how thick do you want to cut ?
2. how much powerline do you have ?
3. How much money ?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Vmax1974
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Finally a forum for JD's Garage plasma cutter builders! I am thinking about to build one, but first I wanted to ask about the quality can be achieved with the machine.
Basically what I want is this:
Cutting holes for M20 bolts into 3mm thick SHS.
Is it doable with this kind of DIY plasma cutter table? Or if the CNC table is build even at the highest quality I am gonna have at least a hypertherm powermax 45 to get those near laser cut-round holes?
Basically what I want is this:
Cutting holes for M20 bolts into 3mm thick SHS.
Is it doable with this kind of DIY plasma cutter table? Or if the CNC table is build even at the highest quality I am gonna have at least a hypertherm powermax 45 to get those near laser cut-round holes?
Someone (I cant remember his yt channel) built JD's Plasma Cutter and he used it with PLASMARGON Air Plasma Cutter Plc 55Pro Pilot Arc CNC Cutting. For me it looks like the same (55A, pilot arc ,CNC compatibility). You can find a bunch of reviews of that plasma cutter on youtube
Erie Fred
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You'll want to read up on Hypertherm's notes on making better holes, and what the machine needs to be able to do.
IIRC TD has an article as well on this.
