Oh, mine does everything. 50l capacity does transmission, steering, brakes and all hydraulics.
- Thread starter reb78
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Thanks for that. Do you remember who it was from out of interest? Sure i found a Bulgarian company a while back but not come across them again since.
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Jan-DIY
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The manufacturer is MS hydraulic.
www.ms-hydraulic.com
M+S Hydraulic Plc.
M+S Hydraulic PLC, Bulgaria is a leading manufacturer of hydraulic orbital motors, steering units, brakes and accessories in Europe and all over the world.
www.ms-hydraulic.com
Thanks for the Bulgaria links. The UK supplier confirms that they don't produce a replacement. They recommended a company called White House Products but they are out of stock for aftermarket replacements. The QTP product is sourced from the far east. This brings me back to the Polish version so I will place an order with them as originally intended now that I've investigated the other sources.
Have to say, all the suppliers I have spoken to have been great - honest and responded quickly.
Have to say, all the suppliers I have spoken to have been great - honest and responded quickly.
Well. This arrived quick. It looks good externally for what that's worth. No duty or additional charges either so if it works it will be a bargain at 160euro.
I will run the tractor static splitting logs for an afternoon, get it hot and fluid running through the filters, then drop the oil whilst warm and change all the filters. Then I will fit the new steering valve and I hope this will solve my problems!
I will run the tractor static splitting logs for an afternoon, get it hot and fluid running through the filters, then drop the oil whilst warm and change all the filters. Then I will fit the new steering valve and I hope this will solve my problems!
Update....!
New orbital valve fitted after lots of fiddling to convert the m18 pipework on the tractor to 1/2bsp on the new valve. Also had to lengthen a pipe by 2 inches as the old one was too tight.
But, the steering wheel now locks up at each lock and more importantly, over that 1/3 mile run I talked about a lot earlier it only needs minor corrections to keep it in a straight line.
Quick question. Does it matter if the wheels are not completely straight ahead when fitting the new unit? I remember when I reassembled the old one, the manual was very specific about the orientation of the drive pawl gear as I put the last cover on. Do the wheels have to be straight ahead to match that when fitting? Reason for asking is that I would say the wheels were 20degrees to the left of straight ahead so the 'resting' position (if it has one)/straight ahead of the valve is slightly different to the final assembly (does that make sense?). And it seems a little jerky around straight ahead.
The jerkiness could be play in the TRE ball joints though which I have replacements for.
New orbital valve fitted after lots of fiddling to convert the m18 pipework on the tractor to 1/2bsp on the new valve. Also had to lengthen a pipe by 2 inches as the old one was too tight.
But, the steering wheel now locks up at each lock and more importantly, over that 1/3 mile run I talked about a lot earlier it only needs minor corrections to keep it in a straight line.
Quick question. Does it matter if the wheels are not completely straight ahead when fitting the new unit? I remember when I reassembled the old one, the manual was very specific about the orientation of the drive pawl gear as I put the last cover on. Do the wheels have to be straight ahead to match that when fitting? Reason for asking is that I would say the wheels were 20degrees to the left of straight ahead so the 'resting' position (if it has one)/straight ahead of the valve is slightly different to the final assembly (does that make sense?). And it seems a little jerky around straight ahead.
The jerkiness could be play in the TRE ball joints though which I have replacements for.
Just to clarify my question above. In my manual the rebuild instructions for the orbital have this as the final step before putting the cover on:
Does this final orientation inside the unit have to correspond with straight ahead at the wheels?
It more or less does with mine (assuming the manufacturer didnt turn it after putting the final cover on) but may be a little off.
Does this final orientation inside the unit have to correspond with straight ahead at the wheels?
It more or less does with mine (assuming the manufacturer didnt turn it after putting the final cover on) but may be a little off.
Phew! I will stop worrying about alignment then! Thanks!
Rannsachair
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Absolutely correct, If you mistime the orientation of the drive pin and the gerotor, the steering valve becomes a motor when you initiate steering. Its only when you strip a valve down that you need to consider this.
Excellent.
Then... I think the new valve has solved the steering problem! (it is a little noisier than the old one and slightly jerky around the straight ahead position - but one of the TREs has a lot of play so is probably contributing to this)
Thanks for all the help here!! Its been a long thread and very educational!!
addjunkie
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Now its fixed youve got two options……keep using it till you need to fix it again or sell it and buy a new set of problems!
Haha. I am one of those - 'I have spent time and money and know that bit is good now so will keep it' type people... Its why I rarely change cars and run mine until they have something terminal wrong.
To be honest - this whole saga has meant that I have taken a lot of this tractor apart and now know it fairly well. I learnt that I can raise the cab, take the trumpet housing off on one side and change the brakes in about an hour when I am in a bad mood now so it kind of becomes a 'small' job compared with what faced me when I had never done it before!
Jan-DIY
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You can adjust the steering wheel when the setting of internal shockvalves are not much higher then adjusted steering pressure.
Takes a bit of torque to override the setting.
Otherwise you can drain some oil to do that.
8ob
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Its the reason I stick with Massey tractors, its more that I know my way around them than whether they are any better or worse than something else. The devil you know and all that.
Bob
Rolled the fields today. Its mostly fine, but seems a bit notchy when turning the wheel gently from a stand still. If you turn it hard its hardly noticeable. I havent fixed the TRE with lots of play yet so hoping that will solve this. It does seem to wander a little still, but nowhere near as bad (like 20x better) and again I hope the TRE will largely be the cause there - it has about an 3/4 inch of movement on the right hand wheel in before it reacts so definitely wont be helping.
