Just bought first TIG cebora tiguno.. Mistake?

[Pete.]

Definitely some subtle differences. Would be nice to see that it had a series/parallel main transformer but I don't see how that one sliding connector could achieve it.

 

[Nick9one1]

The metal slider was in the 'fart box'

I'm not sure how I would test the output other than comparing it to another 200 tig?

 

[Richard.]

I would just know if it was 200 or 100 simply from what it melt and how quickly.
You probably won’t so a DC clamp on current meter round the work return cable would tell you.

 

[Nick9one1]

Yes you're right.. only minor differences. The biggest seems to be the extra Dinse connection on yours for AC Stick welding.

I don't have a DC current clamp, only AC. - I'll try to measure the AC current with it when I get a chance.

 

[Richard.]

Yes you're right.. only minor differences. The biggest seems to be the extra Dinse connection on yours for AC Stick welding.

I don't have a DC current clamp, only AC. - I'll try to measure the AC current with it when I get a chance.

Ac on the out put won’t tell you nothing.
It must be DC if your measuring welding current. The ac meter will only confirm the current it draws from the mains by clamping it round either the L or N on the incoming.

 

[Richard.]

Easy way to tell.
Strike up at full tilt on a piece of 4mm aluminium
If you get instant pool coming through you’ve got cart blanche on tap.
If it takes ages to get things to come through you got a half way Henry and it’s pretty useless for most things above 2mm.

 

[Nick9one1]

I haven't got any aluminium that thick to hand, but I'll try it when I do.

I noticed there were some specs in the manual relating to the voltage and amps (or is it just duty cycle).
Unfortunately they dont make much sense to me;

 

[Nick9one1]

After looking at the table again I think this makes sense.



The current draw seems incredibly high though.
93amp draw at 200A AC?!

 

[Richard.]

After looking at the table again I think this makes sense.



The current draw seems incredibly high though.
93amp draw at 200A AC?!

Yeah that looks like the case.
Christ it’s gonna need a substation to use her at full belt.

 

[Nick9one1]

Gas and regulator collected today so made my first ever TIG welds!

Loads to learn but I was quite pleased.

HF doesn't seem to work. Haven't investigated why yet. Could be the switches set wrong, or the spark gap is too big - thought I'd set it correctly, but ill have another go.

 

[Richard.]

Gas and regulator collected today so made my first ever TIG welds!

Loads to learn but I was quite pleased.

HF doesn't seem to work. Haven't investigated why yet. Could be the switches set wrong, or the spark gap is too big - thought I'd set it correctly, but ill have another go.

Nice little attempts there mate.
Check there is actually a spark trying to jump the gap before messing with gap settings. Hf would be nice. Is it buzzing when you press the trigger. Could be a bit of leakage somewhere.

 

[Nick9one1]

Thanks.

Doesn't look like there is a spark trying to jump the gap.

I tried regapping it and went down to 0.07 thou, but no difference.

I've got the switches set like this ;

 

[Richard.]

I assume you’ve tried this one in both positions

 

[Nick9one1]

Yep,
I think the top mode is hold to weld (2t?), And the bottom is click and release to start, click and release to stop (4t?).

When it's in 4t and I hold the button it makes a buzz, but I think that's because it should be release not held in 4t?

 

[Richard.]

Yep,
I think the top mode is hold to weld (2t?), And the bottom is click and release to start, click and release to stop (4t?).

When it's in 4t and I hold the button it makes a buzz, but I think that's because it should be release not held in 4t?

Is that what it is?
I thought it was lift arc and hf switch.
If it’s buzzing it’s definitely trying to strike. You can hold the button in 4T as long as you like it doesn’t buz to tell you it’s unhappy as that’s a way of using it.
I’d put it back in those settings and look for your spark when you make it buz.

 

[Jlg]

Yep,
I think the top mode is hold to weld (2t?), And the bottom is click and release to start, click and release to stop (4t?).

When it's in 4t and I hold the button it makes a buzz, but I think that's because it should be release not held in 4t?

If it's making a buzz that's the hf trying to work
Edit beaten to it

 

[Pete.]

In AC mode the HF should fire all the time. In DC it fires for 3 seconds IIRC.

I un-did the clamps on the two HF striking points and removed the points cylinders to clean them (not the faces). Then I re-assembled them all and used a 8 thou feeler to 'scrape' the faces clean whilst pressing the gap closed then did the clamps up.

 

[Nick9one1]

Thanks for the help.

I just tried again. It definitely buzzes in the down position (pulse) but I still don't see an arc. In the pulse position it doesn't make any noise.

There doesn't seem to be a way to turn off HF. So I think the HF should always activate unless the welder is in 'stick weld' mode. Like Pete suggests, 3 secs on DC and constant for AC.

I found this in the manual-

View media item 9944

 

[Nick9one1]

I made a couple of videos that should describe it better than I can!

pulse mode

stepless

 

[Pete.]

That's not firing the HF. You should see a blue lightning bolt across the points gap and hear it 'zapping' quite clearly. What you're hearing is transformer buzz.