- Thread starter Lewis_RX8
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Stick one end on the coarse grindstone ...loads of bright 3/4 inch long tailed sparks & it's high carbon steel.
Dull red round blobs a little smaller than a pin head & it's alloy steely and could be a sod to get suitably tempered . I learnt that the hard way after buying an expensive metric set of cold chisels when I lived in Germany ..they were alloy steel & once dulled were difficult to re temper after six or so re sharpening's .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Yesterday I was sharpening the Sabatier's carving knife , chefs knife , boning , filleting and veg blades on an old fashioned 8 inch x 10 mm bar chefs steel . It's 35 yrs old or more and is slightly smoothed as we are on our second set of Sabatier knives
I was thinking of buying a new quality steel as the old one is a single piece forging & seeing what sort of blade could be forged out of the old one as it's pretty hefty in the hand .. I think it might forge to 6 mm by 20 wide not sure of length but then cut it half and ground flatter then heat forged to the remaining part, thinking ( hopefully could give a usefull four inch by 12 mm bar to play with .
I'm not ready for this just yet as I've oodles of things to do of a greater priority to do first but now it's in print it's now on the Roundtuit list .
I was thinking of buying a new quality steel as the old one is a single piece forging & seeing what sort of blade could be forged out of the old one as it's pretty hefty in the hand .. I think it might forge to 6 mm by 20 wide not sure of length but then cut it half and ground flatter then heat forged to the remaining part, thinking ( hopefully could give a usefull four inch by 12 mm bar to play with .
I'm not ready for this just yet as I've oodles of things to do of a greater priority to do first but now it's in print it's now on the Roundtuit list .
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I'm just about to bin a pair of DeWalt riggers?
Lewis_RX8
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That sounds great thanks for the offer , and from a quick google is what I am looking for, Will be good to mould it round for a snug fit , I will PM
Hmmm How stinky are your feet
, Sounds like magnets probably got easier to post flat offcuts rather than boots that have already been formed around a shape guess? Appreciate the offerYes this was any free weekends and evenings to come out and do some wet sanding or handle glue , Good project to pluck away at and vert satisfying.Yesterday I was sharpening the Sabatier's carving knife , chefs knife , boning , filleting and veg blades on an old fashioned 8 inch x 10 mm bar chefs steel . It's 35 yrs old or more and is slightly smoothed as we are on our second set of Sabatier knives
I was thinking of buying a new quality steel as the old one is a single piece forging & seeing what sort of blade could be forged out of the old one as it's pretty hefty in the hand .. I think it might forge to 6 mm by 20 wide not sure of length but then cut it half and ground flatter then heat forged to the remaining part, thinking ( hopefully could give a usefull four inch by 12 mm bar to play with .
I'm not ready for this just yet as I've oodles of things to do of a greater priority to do first but now it's in print it's now on the Roundtuit list .
Lewis_RX8
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Well I suppose this is probably the final installment in the total build
Big thanks to @magnet for helping out with this one much appreciated pal
Don't think I would make a good leather worker this took ages and isn't even neat
I did get a bit faster onto the end so will have a go at an axe sheath now I have a tiny idea what I'm doing
Started with 3mm thick leather
Then cut a rough template out around the knife allowing a inch and a half ish for room , this is then soaked in warm water to get it plyable , I was surprised how plyable it became very very soft so soft I managed to dent it with tissue paper on the end of the clamps whoops
Belt loop cut from an offcut , drilled holes.for sticking as it was a bit heavy for my awl it seemed
Don't think the stitching wins any awards but it's holding it good n tight
Same technique on the edge bevel but expect I had another bit of leather cut to fit between the fold to give it a bit of a gap for the knife blade to go into aswell as stopping the possibility of the threads being cut
And the finished product with some beeswax oil mix for finishing
Big thanks to @magnet for helping out with this one much appreciated pal
Don't think I would make a good leather worker this took ages and isn't even neat
I did get a bit faster onto the end so will have a go at an axe sheath now I have a tiny idea what I'm doing
Started with 3mm thick leather
Then cut a rough template out around the knife allowing a inch and a half ish for room , this is then soaked in warm water to get it plyable , I was surprised how plyable it became very very soft so soft I managed to dent it with tissue paper on the end of the clamps whoops
Belt loop cut from an offcut , drilled holes.for sticking as it was a bit heavy for my awl it seemed
Don't think the stitching wins any awards but it's holding it good n tight
Same technique on the edge bevel but expect I had another bit of leather cut to fit between the fold to give it a bit of a gap for the knife blade to go into aswell as stopping the possibility of the threads being cut
And the finished product with some beeswax oil mix for finishing
magnet
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Thats great mate well done. Giz a shout if you need anymore leatherWell I suppose this is probably the final installment in the total build
Big thanks to @magnet for helping out with this one much appreciated pal
Don't think I would make a good leather worker this took ages and isn't even neat
I did get a bit faster onto the end so will have a go at an axe sheath now I have a tiny idea what I'm doing
Started with 3mm thick leather
View attachment 366076
Then cut a rough template out around the knife allowing a inch and a half ish for room , this is then soaked in warm water to get it plyable , I was surprised how plyable it became very very soft so soft I managed to dent it with tissue paper on the end of the clamps whoops
View attachment 366077
Belt loop cut from an offcut , drilled holes.for sticking as it was a bit heavy for my awl it seemed
View attachment 366079
Don't think the stitching wins any awards but it's holding it good n tight
Same technique on the edge bevel but expect I had another bit of leather cut to fit between the fold to give it a bit of a gap for the knife blade to go into aswell as stopping the possibility of the threads being cut
View attachment 366080
And the finished product with some beeswax oil mix for finishing
View attachment 366086
View attachment 366088
RaceDiagnostics
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I enjoy watching this guy. Used a car spring for this.
Screwdriver
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Well I suppose this is probably the final installment in the total build
Big thanks to @magnet for helping out with this one much appreciated pal
Don't think I would make a good leather worker this took ages and isn't even neat
I did get a bit faster onto the end so will have a go at an axe sheath now I have a tiny idea what I'm doing
Started with 3mm thick leather
View attachment 366076
Then cut a rough template out around the knife allowing a inch and a half ish for room , this is then soaked in warm water to get it plyable , I was surprised how plyable it became very very soft so soft I managed to dent it with tissue paper on the end of the clamps whoops
View attachment 366077
Belt loop cut from an offcut , drilled holes.for sticking as it was a bit heavy for my awl it seemed
View attachment 366079
Don't think the stitching wins any awards but it's holding it good n tight
Same technique on the edge bevel but expect I had another bit of leather cut to fit between the fold to give it a bit of a gap for the knife blade to go into aswell as stopping the possibility of the threads being cut
View attachment 366080
And the finished product with some beeswax oil mix for finishing
View attachment 366086
View attachment 366088
Ouch. That's err, rustic...
My first one was worse but that went straight in the bin. I bought a stupidly cheap and nasty "leather kit" from some dodgy Chinaman with the view that I could try each part of the kit and see which bits I needed to replace with useable tools. So wnile most of the needles snapped(!) and half the weight/number of items are pointless "stamps" I do have almost useable tools tfor neatening up the edges which is where your sheath is most visually challenged. It is amazing how much a parallel line at the edge tidies up the visuals.
Plus using those hole punch fork shaped things really, really helps getting all the stitching holes lined up neat and tidy. Plus there's a tool for just running over the holes so the thread is below the surface. Another tiny detail that made a gigantic difference to the overall look.
So I think you've got everything right but having the "correct" set of tools would have made your first effort really look amazing.
Lewis_RX8
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Hahah Yes I think I bought the same kit lol kept bending the needles and stuff complete chinesium but ah well it does a job not too worried about this one for camping getting knocked about.
Will have to make a fancy nice mk2 one if I want to use it along with a kilt as traditional dress
Screwdriver
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10mm? That's a big knife!
timgunn1962
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It's certainly a suitable material. O1 is often sold as "Gauge Plate" intended for making gauges and tooling in the workshop. It's Oil-Hardening (the "O" in O1 denotes Oil-hardening) and is relatively easy to Heat-Treat using backyard Heat-Treat methods. Because it needs a soak at Austenitizing temperature (800 degC or thereabouts) to get the Carbon properly into solution, it's not as easy to Heat-Treat as some of the other Carbon steels (1084 is probably the most-recommended starter steel, largely because it doesn't really need a soak at Austenitizing temperature). In typical knife blade thicknesses, a 5-10 minute soak at Austenitizing temperature tends to be needed to get the best out of O1 and few backyard setups have tight enough temperature control to do this easily.
10mm is thick for knives, but O1 is forgeable (with careful attention to temperatures) if you have heating-and-beating facilities. It can Air-Harden, particularly in thin sections, so you need to be aware of this.
10mm is thick for knives, but O1 is forgeable (with careful attention to temperatures) if you have heating-and-beating facilities. It can Air-Harden, particularly in thin sections, so you need to be aware of this.
Migmac
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I was given two knives yesterday, at a guess they’ll be from the 70’s. One is a Victorinox and the other is a Watson. The Watson is a bit rough and needs a good going over on a buffing machine. The Victorinox cleaned up with gun oil and a rag. Needed a sharpen, so it got one. It’s razor sharp, takes an edge so much better than the more modern Victorinox I have.
I can grind it to a suitable thickness but I don't know about the suitability of the material for a blade.
Thank you for the info
I've just looked at a smaller price to buy (6×30*1000) for around 30£, so it maybe easier to buy that and save this lump for something else.
Screwdriver
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Oh, it’s about as easy as it gets. Very forgiving material in my experience. Not done any ten mil though!
You could make a very nice axe/hatchet with that sort of thickness…
once you get that sort of size though, it’s almost wasteful which is why people go for san mai or forged inserts with smaller amounts of high carbon offcuts. I would be thinking more about some interesting metrology gadget with a chunk that size.
