DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,176
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
WD 40 well sprayed on and wiped off on clean dry rag is great for getting oil spots out all sorts of wood
- Thread starter h-dom
- Start date
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,900
- Location
- Towcester
It’s my best one, seems to have worked ...
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,900
- Location
- Towcester
Thanks. Deal done
Screwdriver
Member
- Messages
- 10,549
My guess is it will get threaded and the handle fitted with a nut.
h-dom
Member
- Messages
- 593
- Location
- Lincs
h-dom
Member
- Messages
- 593
- Location
- Lincs
Don't have a torch to do that unfortunately but peening would probably be my preferred method
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,176
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Use the heat source you used to heat the forging up on the last 1/2 inch or so of the tang or buy a small Chinese induction heater coil to do it then put the handle on quickly & pene it over ?
Lewis_RX8
Member
- Messages
- 1,574
- Location
- Scotland
How did you make the sheath ? , Any good guide to follow for someone whos never worked the leather lol
@Lewis_RX8
It's made of three pieces of leather cut as below: Drew shape of knife on the leather with pencil, plus 1/2" all the way around where it is going to be sewn. If you are going to stretch the leather leave more excess where it will be stretched.
Then marked out where I wanted the holes to be with pencil.
If you want to make it shaped, thoroughly wet the back and front of the sheaf. Clamp both sides together 3/16" in from the inside hole lines. If you are going to bend the leather over to make the belt loop also clamp the top when it is wet and then it will take a better shape as I have done. Now wrap the knife in masking tape and cling film, then ram the knife into the sheaf so it stretches the leather and leave it to dry.
When it has dried take the clamps off and it should retain the shape. Mine is made of three parts of leather, the centre "U" shaped part is there to protect the stitching and give the blade space when putting the knife into the sheaf. Taper the thickness of the leather where needed.
To sew the parts together I used some strong cotton which I ran through beeswax as well. Nicer if you rebate the thread into the leather, but I don't have the tool for that so I don't bother. Mark the hole spacing out, (two rows, 3/16" gap and 6mm hole spacings in my case) and I use a tapered pin punch (1/16" diameter) to make the holes, knock it through the leather with a hammer, keep the punch vertical use a piece of polythene block to hammer into. Then sew all three pieces of leather together, I do not use a leather needle as it cuts the thread when I double sew it.
When it is sewn together then trim the outside edge, if you want to seal the edge run hot beeswax into it, but I usually rub hide food in really well to finish.
Couple of links here for you to look at
outdoorfact.com
It's made of three pieces of leather cut as below: Drew shape of knife on the leather with pencil, plus 1/2" all the way around where it is going to be sewn. If you are going to stretch the leather leave more excess where it will be stretched.
Then marked out where I wanted the holes to be with pencil.
If you want to make it shaped, thoroughly wet the back and front of the sheaf. Clamp both sides together 3/16" in from the inside hole lines. If you are going to bend the leather over to make the belt loop also clamp the top when it is wet and then it will take a better shape as I have done. Now wrap the knife in masking tape and cling film, then ram the knife into the sheaf so it stretches the leather and leave it to dry.
When it has dried take the clamps off and it should retain the shape. Mine is made of three parts of leather, the centre "U" shaped part is there to protect the stitching and give the blade space when putting the knife into the sheaf. Taper the thickness of the leather where needed.
To sew the parts together I used some strong cotton which I ran through beeswax as well. Nicer if you rebate the thread into the leather, but I don't have the tool for that so I don't bother. Mark the hole spacing out, (two rows, 3/16" gap and 6mm hole spacings in my case) and I use a tapered pin punch (1/16" diameter) to make the holes, knock it through the leather with a hammer, keep the punch vertical use a piece of polythene block to hammer into. Then sew all three pieces of leather together, I do not use a leather needle as it cuts the thread when I double sew it.
When it is sewn together then trim the outside edge, if you want to seal the edge run hot beeswax into it, but I usually rub hide food in really well to finish.
Couple of links here for you to look at
How to Make a Knife Sheath – DIY Guide for Outdoor Enthusiasts
Every camper needs a good knife but keeping such a sharp tool open could be dangerous. Read our tutorial on how to make a knife sheath. Handcrafting one gives you the freedom to choose whatever design, style, and material you like.
outdoorfact.com
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 12,984
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
I did mine with a 1mm drill in the pillar drill. I glue the welt (the middle piece of leather) in place with evo stick impact glue. When I wet form the leather round the knife I use a piece of dowel with the end rounded to press and stretch the shape into the leather. I make a template in card to get the shape and size of sheath and use it as a pattern to cut the leather. 3mm veg tan is what I use from the identity store in Matlock, very helpful people.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,566
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/post-1652297
I've still got about 40m² left ...
roblane65
Member
- Messages
- 2,197
- Location
- Newcastle UK
I like that a lot
very nice, the file bit just adds something to the look of the blade .
Lewis_RX8
Member
- Messages
- 1,574
- Location
- Scotland
Wow real kydex , Ive just made a bodge one by heating up some PVC pipe with a hot air gun then clamping it around the knife with a bit of foam to press it into shape
I have some leather here to make a sheath feel it might look more suitable for my outdoor use rather than military tactical matt black kydex hah
Did you vacuum form the kydex stuff , I like the rivet tool
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,566
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
I clamped it in a vice.
Bigger job, I weighted it down with a big lump of cast iron.
I also experimented with copper plating the kydex - that's still an "ongoing" project.
