- Thread starter KimB
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It’s mostly standard, I removed the EGR completely. There’s no centre silencer and I’ve had it re mapped. I’m sure there was something else but I can’t remember.
I forgot to say how good the suspension is in my earlier post. It’s so comfortable now. I think it’s more comfortable then my new van
sako243
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Do you have a bulkhead behind the seats?
If not and you want even more comfort then might I suggest a set of seats out of an L322 (the proper Range Rover)? I picked up a complete 5-seat set from a chap on a forum for £140 - dark blue leather, slightly worn (but works for me, lets just say it's not as shiny as yours
). I've subsequently sold the three front seats for £250, the rear bench seats for £200 and the middle seats for something around the £100 but I just needed them gone.
The front seats fit with minimal modification - I chopped off a bit of the runners, which in hindsight is not needed, relocated the bolt holes in the seat box (annoyingly they're only 1" out in one dimension and 1/2" in the other) and have removed the front motor adjustment to drop the front of the seat further. I'm not particularly tall and can drive it perfectly fine. The rears won't fit in a double cab - I converted mine to a USW partially so that I could fabricate a bracket for the rear seats to clip into - those needed a custom frame welded up by yours truly to bolt them onto. They're all heated although I haven't got around to figuring out the wiring for those, the electric motors for all the seats work just by supplying 12V to the two big spade terminals in the connector.
The dogs are a big fan of the new seats.
If you like next time I'm east bound I could swing by and you can see the seats in person / experience them first hand. I found one of the chaps who works for Bob sat on the phone in my Defender when I was at the yard, testing out the seats again he said. He's now sourced a pair that he's going to put into his work 90
If not and you want even more comfort then might I suggest a set of seats out of an L322 (the proper Range Rover)? I picked up a complete 5-seat set from a chap on a forum for £140 - dark blue leather, slightly worn (but works for me, lets just say it's not as shiny as yours
). I've subsequently sold the three front seats for £250, the rear bench seats for £200 and the middle seats for something around the £100 but I just needed them gone.The front seats fit with minimal modification - I chopped off a bit of the runners, which in hindsight is not needed, relocated the bolt holes in the seat box (annoyingly they're only 1" out in one dimension and 1/2" in the other) and have removed the front motor adjustment to drop the front of the seat further. I'm not particularly tall and can drive it perfectly fine. The rears won't fit in a double cab - I converted mine to a USW partially so that I could fabricate a bracket for the rear seats to clip into - those needed a custom frame welded up by yours truly to bolt them onto. They're all heated although I haven't got around to figuring out the wiring for those, the electric motors for all the seats work just by supplying 12V to the two big spade terminals in the connector.
The dogs are a big fan of the new seats.
If you like next time I'm east bound I could swing by and you can see the seats in person / experience them first hand. I found one of the chaps who works for Bob sat on the phone in my Defender when I was at the yard, testing out the seats again he said. He's now sourced a pair that he's going to put into his work 90
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Thanks very much. I do actual have full leather interior. I have seats which are the autobiography version just doesn’t say autobiography on them. I’m sure they’re specked as updated seats.Do you have a bulkhead behind the seats?
If not and you want even more comfort then might I suggest a set of seats out of an L322 (the proper Range Rover)? I picked up a complete 5-seat set from a chap on a forum for £140 - dark blue leather, slightly worn (but works for me, lets just say it's not as shiny as yours
The front seats fit with minimal modification - I chopped off a bit of the runners, which in hindsight is not needed, relocated the bolt holes in the seat box (annoyingly they're only 1" out in one dimension and 1/2" in the other) and have removed the front motor adjustment to drop the front of the seat further. I'm not particularly tall and can drive it perfectly fine. The rears won't fit in a double cab - I converted mine to a USW partially so that I could fabricate a bracket for the rear seats to clip into - those needed a custom frame welded up by yours truly to bolt them onto. They're all heated although I haven't got around to figuring out the wiring for those, the electric motors for all the seats work just by supplying 12V to the two big spade terminals in the connector.
The dogs are a big fan of the new seats.
View attachment 183839
If you like next time I'm east bound I could swing by and you can see the seats in person / experience them first hand. I found one of the chaps who works for Bob sat on the phone in my Defender when I was at the yard, testing out the seats again he said. He's now sourced a pair that he's going to put into his work 90
I did use some rail extensions but they raised the seats as well. At some point when I get my workshop done I’ve got some ideas about modifying the seat bases.
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The headliner was £500, it’s alcentara.
genuine headliner though.
sako243
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Nah - they're not as comfortable 
Specially for you I've gone out to the 110 (bloody long walk now, 20 yards of that was to get to the front door
- hard life now) to take some photos.
Even get proper armrests although access to the cubby box is somewhat limited but I'll be building a newer smaller one which allows access with the arm rests down, dogs included for proof it's comfortable. It's amazing the number of times I come out of a filling station to find people taking photos of the two of them sat in the front seats. And finally you can tell the difference between a 300Tdi and a Td5 - I have a set of spanners in the back and Kim has a diagnostics device. In my defense I have been moving house and workshops hence the reason for all the ratchet straps and stripped out rear.
I've got the same idea about building a custom seat box base to drop the fronts down a little bit since they will go up another 6-8" from where they are on the motors, hence why I acquired an FJ Edwards Box and Pan folder off Matt. Although I do have a convenient friend down the road with a massive press brake (somewhere around the 20ft mark
). Although I saw an idea on an expedition vehicle that had a fold down tray under the front seats accessible from outside - they stored oils and so on in there. Was a neat idea for stuff that doesn't need to be inside all the time.
Must get the heated seats, windscreen and TVs working though...
Specially for you I've gone out to the 110 (bloody long walk now, 20 yards of that was to get to the front door
- hard life now) to take some photos.Even get proper armrests although access to the cubby box is somewhat limited but I'll be building a newer smaller one which allows access with the arm rests down, dogs included for proof it's comfortable. It's amazing the number of times I come out of a filling station to find people taking photos of the two of them sat in the front seats. And finally you can tell the difference between a 300Tdi and a Td5 - I have a set of spanners in the back and Kim has a diagnostics device
. In my defense I have been moving house and workshops hence the reason for all the ratchet straps and stripped out rear.I've got the same idea about building a custom seat box base to drop the fronts down a little bit since they will go up another 6-8" from where they are on the motors, hence why I acquired an FJ Edwards Box and Pan folder off Matt. Although I do have a convenient friend down the road with a massive press brake (somewhere around the 20ft mark
). Although I saw an idea on an expedition vehicle that had a fold down tray under the front seats accessible from outside - they stored oils and so on in there. Was a neat idea for stuff that doesn't need to be inside all the time.Must get the heated seats, windscreen and TVs working though...
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https://www.oemdevelopments.co.uk/s...ack_Alston_For_Land_Rover_Defender®_110_.html
I didn’t buy off him but there it is.
That’s the issue isn’t it. If you’re tall like I am, sitting up higher puts my head in the roofNah - they're not as comfortable
Specially for you I've gone out to the 110 (bloody long walk now, 20 yards of that was to get to the front door
Even get proper armrests although access to the cubby box is somewhat limited but I'll be building a newer smaller one which allows access with the arm rests down, dogs included for proof it's comfortable. It's amazing the number of times I come out of a filling station to find people taking photos of the two of them sat in the front seats. And finally you can tell the difference between a 300Tdi and a Td5 - I have a set of spanners in the back and Kim has a diagnostics device
I've got the same idea about building a custom seat box base to drop the fronts down a little bit since they will go up another 6-8" from where they are on the motors, hence why I acquired an FJ Edwards Box and Pan folder off Matt. Although I do have a convenient friend down the road with a massive press brake (somewhere around the 20ft mark
View attachment 183847
View attachment 183848
View attachment 183846
Must get the heated seats, windscreen and TVs working though...
I just keep an RAC card in my purse. I’ll get recovered if it ever breaks down
then I’ll fix it myself.I regularly check it. When I was at my mums I’d use my brothers jack and check each corners wheel bearing and suspension parts every month. I like to keep on top of most issues it has.
Last edited:
sako243
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Um - strangely not on these seats. I think because they're full size and quite deep and luxurious you're not actually up in the roof. Unless you're all body and no legs
.Put it this way I'd describe Bob as a friendly giant and he's absolutely fine in them. Even if he couldn't figure out the electric seats
slim_boy_fat
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Update time.
So I’ve had what I’m sure is an oil leak on the front crank seal for a bit. Annoyingly it’s hard to detect because it spreads it EVERYWHERE! Anyway, I had a squeak (belt like squeak) when shutting the engine off as well so I decided to search on google, everything referred to the harmonic balancer. I ordered one up along with a new seal and a new bolt (the bolt is a must!).
Today I decided to fit it, now the only problem with the crank bolt is that it requires 460nm and obviously not many people have or have access to a 3/4“ or 1” Torque wrench. To overcome this I was going to convert 460nm to Kg meters, that works out roughly 46kg, easy stuff. I could then just make a 2m bar and pull 23kg through a scale. I couldn’t find my scale (I think I binned it) so I spoke to my friend and how to work out the degree the bolt needs tightening too.
So the bolt is an M16 1.5mm thread, 90mm shank and a tensile strength of 12.9. From there my friend said he had to work out the clamp load which was 105kn, then used a strain calculator to work out the shank stretch under load 0.23mm. From there I think he worked out the thread pull on the to meat the shank deflection and equated 100nm and then turn 60deg. A bit long winded to get there but it’s good haha, once this is all over (corona) I’ll borrow a torque wrench from work or something and tighten it at home just to make double sure.
Anyway, on with the task.
I cut a bit of angle iron and drilled some holes to mount it to the balancer, as can be seen below. During the process the drill grabbed, spun 180deg and smacked me in the side of the face
it didn’t damage the drill though. Just my face
I’d say that’s leaking!
Crank seal mating edge on the balancer. Very badly gouged.
Found a breading with an OD that fit perfectly over the seal so I could tap it in. To get the bearing apart (for those that never have) I use a punch and break away the ball retainers between each ball. Then push the balls to the bottom, lift the inner race up and it’ll pop out leaving this in the outer race.
used tape and a marker along with an angle gauge to mark it. I couldn’t get my actual degree measurement gauge between the rad and the bolt head. I marked 30deg and did two pushes.
Tighten the other three bolts to 59ft-lb which is what I could see on the internet.
All sorted and purring away nicely.
So I’ve had what I’m sure is an oil leak on the front crank seal for a bit. Annoyingly it’s hard to detect because it spreads it EVERYWHERE! Anyway, I had a squeak (belt like squeak) when shutting the engine off as well so I decided to search on google, everything referred to the harmonic balancer. I ordered one up along with a new seal and a new bolt (the bolt is a must!).
Today I decided to fit it, now the only problem with the crank bolt is that it requires 460nm and obviously not many people have or have access to a 3/4“ or 1” Torque wrench. To overcome this I was going to convert 460nm to Kg meters, that works out roughly 46kg, easy stuff. I could then just make a 2m bar and pull 23kg through a scale. I couldn’t find my scale (I think I binned it
) so I spoke to my friend and how to work out the degree the bolt needs tightening too.So the bolt is an M16 1.5mm thread, 90mm shank and a tensile strength of 12.9. From there my friend said he had to work out the clamp load which was 105kn, then used a strain calculator to work out the shank stretch under load 0.23mm. From there I think he worked out the thread pull on the to meat the shank deflection and equated 100nm and then turn 60deg. A bit long winded to get there but it’s good haha, once this is all over (corona) I’ll borrow a torque wrench from work or something and tighten it at home just to make double sure.
Anyway, on with the task.
I cut a bit of angle iron and drilled some holes to mount it to the balancer, as can be seen below. During the process the drill grabbed, spun 180deg and smacked me in the side of the face
it didn’t damage the drill though. Just my face I’d say that’s leaking!
Crank seal mating edge on the balancer. Very badly gouged.
Found a breading with an OD that fit perfectly over the seal so I could tap it in. To get the bearing apart (for those that never have) I use a punch and break away the ball retainers between each ball. Then push the balls to the bottom, lift the inner race up and it’ll pop out leaving this in the outer race.
used tape and a marker along with an angle gauge to mark it. I couldn’t get my actual degree measurement gauge between the rad and the bolt head. I marked 30deg and did two pushes.
Tighten the other three bolts to 59ft-lb which is what I could see on the internet.
All sorted and purring away nicely.
colnerov
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Hi, Be aware using a torque wrench on a bolt that's already tight, you will get a false reading because you will have to over come the friction of the threads and bolt face first which will be higher. Torque is a turning force and should be done in one motion. Trust what you've done.
Colin
Colin
rtcosic
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Hmm, seems a complicated way of tightening to high torque.
Last one I had to do was a drive shaft nut* at around 450Nm.
Like you I did the arithmatic of how many kgs at how many metres.
I just weighed myself then marked off the extension bar at the right length** and carefully stood on it.
* the same one that I launched the extension bar into low earth orbit when undoing it.
**an embarrassingly short distance I won't bother you with.
But as usual, nicely done.
Last one I had to do was a drive shaft nut* at around 450Nm.
Like you I did the arithmatic of how many kgs at how many metres.
I just weighed myself then marked off the extension bar at the right length** and carefully stood on it.
* the same one that I launched the extension bar into low earth orbit when undoing it.
**an embarrassingly short distance I won't bother you with.
But as usual, nicely done.
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I was going to do that but I can't stand on the bar with everything in the way. I thought about making the bar go above the wing but it then geting complicated, if it were to slip off I'd wreck the side of my car and I'd be very unhappy.
