Land Rover MOT Failure Help

[eSCHEn]

So my wife's Defender 110 TD5 2002 Station Wagon has been in for a MOT and has sadly failed on a problem with the steering. It also has a few advisories as well, here is the rap sheet:

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
    Steering rack has relative movement to chassis/bodywork persistently moving when jacked up (2.1.2 (a) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):
    Nearside Rear Headlamp aim too low offside front (4.1.2 (a))
    Offside Front Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush excessively worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))
    Nearside Rear Wheel bearing has excessive play offside rear (5.1.3 (a) (i))
    Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has an excessively worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
    Offside Front Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced (6.1.1 (c) (i))
    Offside Rear Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting seatbelt mounting at crossmember (6.2.2 (d) (i))
    Offside Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting crossmember at body mounting corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
    Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting centre crossmember at tow ball corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
    Offside Front Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting nearside front crossmember corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
    Front Intermediate drop arm insecure (2.1.3 (a) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
    Nearside Rear Lower Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush offside rear lower (5.3.2 (c))
    Nearside Rear Integral body structure or chassis corroded within 30cm of a mounting, but not seriously affecting overall security seatbelt mounting at crossmember corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
    Nearside Front offside front hub seals slight leak
    clutch slave cylinder leaking

I'm going to try and help her out as much as I can, I may even do some of the welding on it . Genuinely haven't decided yet; however, my knowledge of Land Rover intricacies is limited and I'm hoping some kind members will take pity and help my understanding on that front

I must qualify that I don't have a great deal of extra information from the person who did the MOT but I'll do my best to fill in as much as I can. The motor itself it not available to photograph for the post but should be in the next few days. I'll update if/when it's needed.

Beginning with the dangerous defect, "Steering rack has relative movement to chassis/bodywork persistently moving when jacked up" doesn't really explain what this is likely to be for me. Is there something that jumps out as a common cause of this defect?

She's been advised that the front steering damper is incorrect and checking on YouTube it does appear that this is true. It has a Bilstein gas shock rather than the expected oil-filled damper. There's no noticable pushing on the steering but I've not got a ramp and the person who did the MOT does so there would be less friction and the problem shows up I suppose?

I'm lumping all the welding related tasks together on the major defect list and advisories. She's no fool and knows a new chassis is going to be needed in the future but hopes to keep that date as far away as possible If it comes to that then are there any recommendations for a good chassis supplier? She's looking at Richmond (IIRC, she's on the phone right now so cannae check), they seem to decent? I'm leaving any diagnosis of that until I can get a look and feel of the job in the flesh.

I've not done swivel pins or a clutch slave cylinder before but they don't look too onerous. Famous last words I guess

Anything else we should be looking out for given the above?

Finally, for the MOT testers themselves - what on earth is a "Nearside Rear Headlamp"

Sorry about the wall of text, there's a lot to it and wanted to try and get everything down in the OP

 

[julianf]

I had to do the swivel on my 300tdi disco last mot. I don't recall it being hard. I think i was lazy and took off the whole hub in one go, so as not to have to mess with the bearing loading.

I can't see half of your list and my brain isn't active enough to work out the missing half.

Ps.this was on the road outside my house. A friend came round to help and just watched me... It really wasn't as involved as I was considering. And that was replacing the whole swivel ball.

 

[armalites]

For starters it doesn't have a steering rack, it has a steering box which is bolted to the chassis so you may want to get clarification.

I thought they were supposed to/allowed to adjust headlights as part of the MOT.

That does look like an expensive list

 

[tom2207]

they dont have a steering rack

 

[tom2207]

probably the lower arm off the steering box the joint wears , but there is a repair kit for them .

 

[mtt.tr]

Check the pitman arm on the steering box?

 

[tom2207]

the mechanicals on that list is normal enough and nothing to get worried about , its the rust that will take a very close examination / explore and the results of that will dictate the best route to proceed in.
as mentioned in recent posts , most of the parts that rust are available , and can be swapped , few bits are tricky , but its all do able , however the time it can take adds up ,,

 

[eSCHEn]

@julianf that's good to know about the swivel pins. It doesn't look that bad but we shall see I guess. Try scrolling right using the scrollbar at the bottom of the code section.

@armalites @tom2207 Yeah that is what I thought (box not rack) but that text is copy-pasted from the .gov site for MOT details. I've not got anything else from the person who did the MOT and I'm not likely to get it either. I'm hoping to refurbish if possible as I don't know how decent a rebuild is done when you get one already done.

If you have any links to a diagram pointing out the bits you mean then I'd be eternally grateful. As I say I'm no LR person and that would be a massive help if you can be bothered

 

[armalites]

Judging by the other bits it may be the chassis that's the issue not the steering box IE it's flexing

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Judging by the other bits it may be the chassis that's the issue not the steering box IE it's flexing

I agree - sound like chassis is in a poor state.

 

[eSCHEn]

I have to say that I've driven the motor frequently and recently and it shows no signs of untoward steering. Same result from the owner who is much more au fait with Land Rovers and others who have had them all their lives. It's weird. I'm leaning to just replacing the damper and seeing if that sorts "it", whatever "it" is as the MOT sheet is not particularly helpful here.

 

[Barking Mat]

What's it like to drive?

Second opinion?

 

[doubleboost]

For starters it doesn't have a steering rack, it has a steering box which is bolted to the chassis so you may want to get clarification.

I thought they were supposed to/allowed to adjust headlights as part of the MOT.

That does look like an expensive list

If the vehicle was only going to fail on beam set .
Most testers would simply adjust the light (assuming that was possible)
With a list like that simply not worth it .
As has been said it has a steering box not a rack .
If the box is flexing on a very badly corroded chassis member that is a fail

 

[julianf]

I'll comment that, if you're doing the chassis, don't bother doing all the other bits first.

It will be a load easier to do at the same time as the chassis.

 

[julianf]

Most of the chassis places - you'll find someone to say bad stuff and someone to say good.

Make sure that, whoever you go with, you have it in writing when it's going to be delivered, before you cough up the money, with clear course of action as to what happens when it does not turn up on time.

And buy with your credit card. Especially as the 2nd wave approaches.

 

[eSCHEn]

I'll comment that, if you're doing the chassis, don't bother doing all the other bits first.

It will be a load easier to do at the same time as the chassis.

Most of the chassis places - you'll find someone to say bad stuff and someone to say good.

Make sure that, whoever you go with, you have it in writing when it's going to be delivered, before you cough up the money, with clear course of action as to what happens when it does not turn up on time.

And buy with your credit card. Especially as the 2nd wave approaches.

Yeah the fact the body "just" lifts off will make it easier for sure. If it comes to doing that though I think that it's time to get someone else in - beyond our skill set.

 

[tom2207]

Judging by the other bits it may be the chassis that's the issue not the steering box IE it's flexing

rare they rust there ,, usually grow in so firm you have to sledge them out , steering pins will probably just shim ok , its the rust thats the issue

 

[tom2207]

I have to say that I've driven the motor frequently and recently and it shows no signs of untoward steering. Same result from the owner who is much more au fait with Land Rovers and others who have had them all their lives. It's weird. I'm leaning to just replacing the damper and seeing if that sorts "it", whatever "it" is as the MOT sheet is not particularly helpful here.

if it was a damper , they would have written damper , it sits in plain view , and they picked up on shock rubbers , your going to have to go for a look see.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

I wouldn’t say it’s the chassis flexing, if it was that bad it would have torn itself out. Most likely to be panhard rod bushes. Drop arm coming loose is a defender trait. Steering damper being brought up is a load of rubbish, it’s just had an aftermarket one fitted, they’re fine.

swivel pins are easy, as are wheel bearings. If it hasn’t been done already, change the bearings to the older type without the spacer in

 

[willie.macleod]

Steering rack has relative movement to chassis/bodywork persistently moving when jacked up (2.1.2 (a) (ii))

Need to check this one, as others have said its a box not a rack, don't think it is talking about the drop arm ball joint as that is listed below as a major defect.

Nearside Rear Headlamp aim too low offside front (4.1.2 (a))

Order some plastic buckets and new headlamp bezels if they look anything other than perfect before attempting this as chances are they are rotten and will fall apart as soon as they are looked at.

Offside Front Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush excessively worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))

Can buy Britpart kits which should have all you need for doing these for reasonable money. If the swivel looks bad then get the larger kit and replace the whole swivel but if its just the bushes then you can avoid a lot of work taking it all to bits. Buy new bolts for the brake callipers and make sure to use a tight fitting (probably 1/2" rather than 13mm if they are corroded) multi point socket on them to avoid rounding them when getting them off.

Nearside Rear Wheel bearing has excessive play offside rear (5.1.3 (a) (i))

Buy a 52mm impact socket for these (need it for the above job as well), chances are you have a non-adjustable bearing setup with a spacer. These are torqued up quite tight and the nut is a one use job, you can revert back to the old fashioned and easily adjustable in the field setup with two nuts and a washer bent between them if you wish. Get extra for the front as well. Lots easier for future work. Again parts are cheap and its an easy job.

Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has an excessively worn bush (5.3.2 (c))

If its the top bush then the top mount has a habit of snapping, they aren't the best quality castings and have a hard life. Can replace the whole mount if this happens though as they are bolt on.

Offside Front Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Offside Rear Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting seatbelt mounting at crossmember (6.2.2 (d) (i))
Offside Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting crossmember at body mounting corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting centre crossmember at tow ball corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))
Offside Front Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting nearside front crossmember corroded (6.2.2 (d) (i))

Sounds like a new rear crossmember and a bulkhead outrigger at least. Look at RCP for bulkhead outriggers, they have a non-handed version which is easier to fit. Lots of rear crossmember options depending on how bad the legs are and how much more is required.

Front Intermediate drop arm insecure (2.1.3 (a) (i))

Kits available for very little, if it is the drop arm then either buy or make (if you have access to a lathe/time) a removal/installation tool as it makes the job so much easier.

Nearside Front offside front hub seals slight leak

The basic swivel kit you buy with the swivel bearings will come with this, you can get away with cutting the seal to fit it (cut at the top!) and it will give you a few more years if they swivel itself isn't too pitted. Cutting the seal saves you having to take the swivel off the axle unnecessarily.

Sounds like a few days work there for someone, depends just how bad the vehicle is and how much decides to come apart when asked!