- Thread starter p0689109
- Start date
You have just put my mind into electrical overload! The wiring on the motor is how it came. Of course I have no idea of the history of when the rewire to single phase took place and when the motor was fitted. Looking at the amount of swarf around and on the motor and its mounting when I bought it I would have said that it had been used in this configuration and hence must have been wired as is. I will double check the wiring before attempting to reconnect as per your advice.
The pdf file starts to load and then stops after a couple of seconds and does not restart.
I assume the mechanism on the end cap is a centrifugal switch, it seems to have a weight with springs on it which bears against a couple of bent plates to make and break a contact. I did not know about the motors having a reverse switch and if so where is it fitted. Or is it that one fitted on the screw thread drive shaft where the select lever is a three position jobby?
I assume the mechanism on the end cap is a centrifugal switch, it seems to have a weight with springs on it which bears against a couple of bent plates to make and break a contact. I did not know about the motors having a reverse switch and if so where is it fitted. Or is it that one fitted on the screw thread drive shaft where the select lever is a three position jobby?
eil: ref your comment about the start and run windings. Earlier checks I did showed that the two black wires going into the windings had a resistance of 70ohm and were connected to Z1 &U1 and the two red wires had a resistance of 93ohm and were connected to V1 & U2. You are now saying that the two black wires should be connected to U1 & U2 and the two red wires should be connected to Z1 and Z2. It seems the motor is totally wrongly wired then and if so could never have worked!
rtbcomp
Moderator
- Messages
- 18,574
- Location
- Sheffield UK
This makes it MUCH clearer
One relay, either M1 or M2 is called at a time, depending on the direction of rotation required.
M1a, M2a, M1b and M2b connect the mains R & S to the motor run coil, U & V. This powers the motor in each direction.
When M1 is called, M1c connects R & 5, M1d connects S & 6, thus spinning the motor one way.
When M2 is called, M2c connects R & 6, M2d connects S & 5, thus spinning the motor the other way.
Once you've ascertained that your motor does run and you can reverse it we can re-arrange the wiring to suit your links.
One relay, either M1 or M2 is called at a time, depending on the direction of rotation required.
M1a, M2a, M1b and M2b connect the mains R & S to the motor run coil, U & V. This powers the motor in each direction.
When M1 is called, M1c connects R & 5, M1d connects S & 6, thus spinning the motor one way.
When M2 is called, M2c connects R & 6, M2d connects S & 5, thus spinning the motor the other way.
Once you've ascertained that your motor does run and you can reverse it we can re-arrange the wiring to suit your links.
Generally or usually in a single phase the U windings are the main or run and the start are the Z, V will be the switch that disconnects the start windings from the circuit when the motor gets up to about 3/4 of its full speed. In your motor you have one capacitor connected to both ends of the start winding. the way you have it now your right it will never work.
Can I suggest that you write down all the connections as they are now, then change the wiring and follow the diagram that I put up on the bench and see if the motor works or not. All the other mish mash can wait for now.
rtbcomp: many thanks again for your expanded explanation diagram. Ah the relays. That was going to be the next challenge to work out which one is doing what and what the actual terminals output. I expect one row to be 24v and the other 240v but need guidance. Now that I have been helped with my cameras focus problems tomorrow I will take a couple of photos, weather permitting, as the lathe is out side at the moment in its own shed I have made to protect it. The cover just fits over it and has to be removed to gain access to the lathe.
eil: I have worked out the rejig of the motors terminal block as per your directions and will hopefully get round to swapping them tomorrow.
Again thanks for your invaluable help gents.
eil: I have worked out the rejig of the motors terminal block as per your directions and will hopefully get round to swapping them tomorrow.
Again thanks for your invaluable help gents.
eil: I have rewired the motor as per your advice. Its a fiddle, with 10 wires,4 thicker than the rest, to get them connected to the block which has then got to sit flat on the motor without the wires under it. They tend to stay in the old position and there is not a lot of cable to play with. Bad design if you ask me. Strangely, after I had finished connecting the wires to the block I did con checks to make sure and checked the resistance of the windings. They both read 95ohms this time as opposed to the 90 & 70 before.
All I have to do is connect it to the mains as per your diagram. Hopefully tomorrow.
All I have to do is connect it to the mains as per your diagram. Hopefully tomorrow.
Sat 20 Sep. Its a nice day and so managed to rewire/connect the motor as per "eils'" instruction diagram. I am pleased to tell you it works ok in both directions. I can even hear the c/sw working so I am well pleased. The only problem now is the terminals on the motor block, that the four inputting cables went to, have different connections to them now. So I am stumped to connect which to which. The motor needs to turn in a clockwise direction looking at the pulley from the front i.e. head on. The cables as they were connected :-
1. Live(supply) cable connected to terminal 1 of the junction box which in turn is connected to terminal 1 of relay 1(that is the left of the three relays)
2. Neutral(return) cable connected to terminal 2 of the junction box which in turn connects to terminal 2 relay 1
3.Motor block connection U1 was fed by a wire from term 6 of the junction box which got its feed from the unmarked terminal on the lower part of relay1(that row of terminals is marked 2 4 6 then blank so I have called it terminal 0)
4. Terminal V1 is fed from terminal 3 on the j/b which is fed from terminal 3 of relay1
5.Terminal U2 is fed from terminal 4 on the j/b which is fed from terminal 4 on relay 1
6. Terminal Z2 is fed from terminal 5 on the j/b which in turn is fed from terminal 6 of relay 1.
I hope that is enough info to allow you to point me in the right direction. Sorry again for the ineligible relay photos. I was hoping to get the numbering on the front of the relays clearer, but I think you can make out which are which. Are the voltages on the single digit terminals on the relays different to those of double digit values?
Cheers Michael T
1. Live(supply) cable connected to terminal 1 of the junction box which in turn is connected to terminal 1 of relay 1(that is the left of the three relays)
2. Neutral(return) cable connected to terminal 2 of the junction box which in turn connects to terminal 2 relay 1
3.Motor block connection U1 was fed by a wire from term 6 of the junction box which got its feed from the unmarked terminal on the lower part of relay1(that row of terminals is marked 2 4 6 then blank so I have called it terminal 0)
4. Terminal V1 is fed from terminal 3 on the j/b which is fed from terminal 3 of relay1
5.Terminal U2 is fed from terminal 4 on the j/b which is fed from terminal 4 on relay 1
6. Terminal Z2 is fed from terminal 5 on the j/b which in turn is fed from terminal 6 of relay 1.
I hope that is enough info to allow you to point me in the right direction. Sorry again for the ineligible relay photos. I was hoping to get the numbering on the front of the relays clearer, but I think you can make out which are which. Are the voltages on the single digit terminals on the relays different to those of double digit values?
Cheers Michael T
What I meant was that for normal lathe work that is the direction of rotation I need the motor to go in to get the chuck to rotate clockwise from the rear. I still have to work out what all the different parts and levers actually do on the lathe yet! There is a lever on the screw cutting cogs that reverses them I have worked out!
Well, all the relays etc are there on the machine, see photos. All I am trying to find out is how to check out the wiring to make sure the lathe works. So far the motor has been found to have been wired wrongly. The next stage is to hopefully connect up the rest of the electrics so that it all works. I do not know if reversing is one of the options the machine had. It was suggested that after reconnecting the motors wiring block I check out both fwd & reverse to make sure both work.
