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The motor as it came had no links fitted, just the four cables connected. The motor now has the wires reconnected as you said and was checked with the links and now has no links fitted and awaiting reconnection to the four feed wires. The feed wires are connected to relay one( the left hand one in the photo) as follows;
The blue one is connected to terminal 3 of the junction box which in turn is connected to terminal 3 of Relay 1
The green/yellow one is connected to terminal 4 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 4 of R1
The yellow one is connected to terminal 5 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 6 of R1
The red one is connected to terminal 6 of the j/b which in turn is connected to the terminal with no number on its face plate which I will call terminal 0 of R1.
The live lead from the 3 pin plug is connected to terminal 1 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 1 of R1
The return lead of the feed plug is connected to terminal 2 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 2 of R1
These relays each have 18 terminals which I think consists of two connected to the 24v circuit and the other 16 I assume are 240v in four rows of 4. Again I assume the 24v feed is used to energise the coils to move the contacts and I think they are NO & NC contacts(I believe they stand for normally open & normally close) but I do not know which is which.
As to your last post regarding the checking of the feed wires, I take it that you want me to plug in the lathe and switch it on to do that check, or can you ascertain from the details above which is which? I am a bit wary of doing checks with unconnected live wires!
The blue one is connected to terminal 3 of the junction box which in turn is connected to terminal 3 of Relay 1
The green/yellow one is connected to terminal 4 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 4 of R1
The yellow one is connected to terminal 5 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 6 of R1
The red one is connected to terminal 6 of the j/b which in turn is connected to the terminal with no number on its face plate which I will call terminal 0 of R1.
The live lead from the 3 pin plug is connected to terminal 1 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 1 of R1
The return lead of the feed plug is connected to terminal 2 of the j/b which in turn is connected to terminal 2 of R1
These relays each have 18 terminals which I think consists of two connected to the 24v circuit and the other 16 I assume are 240v in four rows of 4. Again I assume the 24v feed is used to energise the coils to move the contacts and I think they are NO & NC contacts(I believe they stand for normally open & normally close) but I do not know which is which.
As to your last post regarding the checking of the feed wires, I take it that you want me to plug in the lathe and switch it on to do that check, or can you ascertain from the details above which is which? I am a bit wary of doing checks with unconnected live wires!
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If you are unhappy about testing the wiring live. and you have removed the links on the motor, then connect up as marked on the four motor wires and try it out. I assume the lathe is earthed and you have suitable protection on your supply. Hopefully whoever had it before only messed up on the motor and had not got far enough to fiddle with the control side of things.
I disconnected the feed wires from the junction box so that there were no uncontained leads about and turned the lathe on. By that I meant plugging in the plug and switching it on and then pushing the Lathe ON button. Checking the four motor terminals at the junction box gave no readings at all. Later on doing further checks to see if the carriage double micro switch worked I moved the carriage lever and, in each direction, another of the two relays operated and there was volts at 2 of the four leads each time, be it that the leads that had the volts changed. That is with the lever selected "up" Relay 1 energised and the cables connected to j/box terminals 3 & 5 had power. When the lever was selected "down" Relay 2 energised & terminals 3 & 6 had 240v. Now I thought that just by pushing the ON button would have had the motor turning the chuck and the carriage lever just engaged/disengaged it and did not control the motor. Mind, there is 3 levers on the carriage. So can somebody tell me what is supposed to happen and what the other two levers on the carriage are for? There is also a red warning light on the start panel. Can anybody tell me when that would light up. Its bulb is u/s and it is like a torches type but 24v. What amperage should it be. The marking on the bulb is unreadable.
Lawnmowerboy
Member
- Messages
- 2,165
There's feed switch between X and Y, feed engage and possibly screwcut.
they only control the lathe when its running basically nothing to do with the motor. check for faulty E-stops too.
they only control the lathe when its running basically nothing to do with the motor. check for faulty E-stops too.
rustyoldford
Member
- Messages
- 42
Could the contractors be high low speed and emergency stop ? most lathes I've used have an idle gear to put it in reverse off of a lever. 110v low speed high torque and 240 high speed low torque. 24v to controls for contractor switching.
The top pic shows your on/off switch, up for forward, middle for stop, down for reverse going by the pdf in the link.
I'm not able to follow what you say with the junction box and different colour wires as I cant see them well enough its just confusing things.
Regarding four wires that go to the motor, plug the machine in and lift the lever up for forward. with your meter check which two wires of the four are live. make a note which ones they are.
Now check you have neutral on the other two, by connecting your meter between your now known live wires and the other two, you should have your full voltage.
Now switch off and un-plug the machine.
Now connect your two live wires to the motor one to V1 and the other to U1, (it doesn't matter which go where)
Now connect the other two which are your neutrals to Z2 and U2.
Switch back on and see if the motor runs in the direction you want.
I'm not able to follow what you say with the junction box and different colour wires as I cant see them well enough its just confusing things.
Regarding four wires that go to the motor, plug the machine in and lift the lever up for forward. with your meter check which two wires of the four are live. make a note which ones they are.
Now check you have neutral on the other two, by connecting your meter between your now known live wires and the other two, you should have your full voltage.
Now switch off and un-plug the machine.
Now connect your two live wires to the motor one to V1 and the other to U1, (it doesn't matter which go where)
Now connect the other two which are your neutrals to Z2 and U2.
Switch back on and see if the motor runs in the direction you want.
Lawnmowerboy; Sorry but I am afraid I have no idea what you are on about. The x and y and E stops What are they?
rustyoldford: This machine only uses 240v for the motor and 24v for the control. From what I have gleaned from my wire chasing on the machine two of the relays seem to control the motor, one for each direction, through the carriage lever and one is used to control the 24v control circuit.
eil: Sorry about confusing you. Basically I have carried out what you have said by identifying which of the feed wires does what at each of the carriage levers positions. I will now go and connect the motor accordingly as per your posting.
What I need to know is that why, when I push the "ON" button, the motor feed cables do not get any power. I would have thought that that was the idea. But it seems that the carriage lever is the selection for the motor to run and the ON button just powers or enables the lathe ready for use, i.e. it is ensuring the access doors are closed and the off switch is reset thus powering the relay that controls the 24v control circuit. If so, do all lathes work that way that have motorised carriages.?
rustyoldford: This machine only uses 240v for the motor and 24v for the control. From what I have gleaned from my wire chasing on the machine two of the relays seem to control the motor, one for each direction, through the carriage lever and one is used to control the 24v control circuit.
eil: Sorry about confusing you. Basically I have carried out what you have said by identifying which of the feed wires does what at each of the carriage levers positions. I will now go and connect the motor accordingly as per your posting.
What I need to know is that why, when I push the "ON" button, the motor feed cables do not get any power. I would have thought that that was the idea. But it seems that the carriage lever is the selection for the motor to run and the ON button just powers or enables the lathe ready for use, i.e. it is ensuring the access doors are closed and the off switch is reset thus powering the relay that controls the 24v control circuit. If so, do all lathes work that way that have motorised carriages.?
eil: I have reconnected the 4 wires to the motor as per your advice. Electrically it works but the motor is finished. Upon selecting the lever the motor buzzed but no rotation. Flicking the pulley got it to rotate but it struggled, and that was with the belt fitted but in the unloaded position. If I took the belt off the machine the motor would start but did not seem to be going full speed. Under any load it will not start even with giving the pulley a good flick. So the wiring seems to be ok but the motor has turned out useless! So off on the ebay to source a replacement. The last motor I got I had to fit the links to suit the direction of rotation. As this has to operate in both directions I suppose I do not fit any links and just connect it as per your guide earlier?
eil: Before I buy a new motor is there anything else I can do to confirm this motor is duff? Before I actually reconnected the motor when checking which feed cables had power and which were neutral, of the 4 wires wires 1 & 3 showed 240v & 2 & 4 showed 0. Checking 1 & 2 showed 240v & 1 & 4 showed 240v. Similarly, 3 & 4 and 3 & 2 showed 240v. Was that to be expected?
Where the motor fits on the lathe is a tight fit right under the casting that houses the pulley assembly. The clearance between the top of the motor and the casting is tight. The old motors electrical connection box is a small square one compared to the new comparative motors ones which are at least twice the size. Also the motor sits on a platform which angles up/down to tension the belt which again reduces the clearance. So do you know of any supplier that would be able to supply one more like the original than those on ebay?
Finally, I have trawled the internet for info on this lathe and amongst the info I have gleaned is the motor size. Unfortunately one reckons 1 hp and the other reckons 1.5 hp. In your opinion which one would be the better option? I would hate to find that I went for the 1 hp and it was underpowered. Also would I connect the new motor as per your instruction without links?
Many thanks for all your help.
Where the motor fits on the lathe is a tight fit right under the casting that houses the pulley assembly. The clearance between the top of the motor and the casting is tight. The old motors electrical connection box is a small square one compared to the new comparative motors ones which are at least twice the size. Also the motor sits on a platform which angles up/down to tension the belt which again reduces the clearance. So do you know of any supplier that would be able to supply one more like the original than those on ebay?
Finally, I have trawled the internet for info on this lathe and amongst the info I have gleaned is the motor size. Unfortunately one reckons 1 hp and the other reckons 1.5 hp. In your opinion which one would be the better option? I would hate to find that I went for the 1 hp and it was underpowered. Also would I connect the new motor as per your instruction without links?
Many thanks for all your help.
Having checked the dimensions of the motor I find that the mounting holes are vastly different to the motors sold on ebay. The mounting foot of the one I have got is part of the motors casting. The drive shaft is also a lot larger at 24mm as compared to the ebay models. So I thought I would double check the motors internal connections to the wiring block to ensure that I had wired them as per eil recommended. Sure enough I had but I found a disconnected wire that is coming out of the windings and nowhere for it to connect to! The 10 wires that should be connected to the block are and the con check ok. Anybody any ideas?
After inspecting the motor as thoroughly as I could this morning I could not find where this "loose" wire belonged inside the motor. So I decided to redo the soldered wires to the centrifugal switch and shorten the cables as they were way too long, and reassemble and refit as a last attempt before going down the route of new motor. Guess what. The motor she work as she is supposed to. Well chuffed. I just had to adjust the cam on the microswitch rod controlling fwd speed as it was intermittent and bingo. Now, down to sorting the coolant supply.
Many thanks lads for your patience, time and knowledge. Invaluable. I only hope I can pass some of my hard earned on to some one. Anybody want to know about Airbus and Boeing a/c??
Many thanks lads for your patience, time and knowledge. Invaluable. I only hope I can pass some of my hard earned on to some one. Anybody want to know about Airbus and Boeing a/c??
