Lathe power

[pressbrake1]

No it won't.
Amps drawn (provided the correct voltage is applied) is proportionate to the load applied.

And that’s why some machines have a amp meter , to monitor cutting load and tip condition and on grinders to see spark out load

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

This is the motor That's in it.
Can't believe how heavy it is for a 1/2hp motor.
It's fire proof, it's not original. The huge cast iron switch housing makes it very awkward to get in or out, there are no covers on the switch or terminal housings, and it grumbles a bit.View attachment 403305
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It will do to get it up and running if i have to.

As an aside, the old "Flame Proof" and "Explosion Proof" electrical equipment is something of a collector's item these days, if you do remove it, well worth giving it a clean up and listing on eBay.

I sold some old control panels of a similar type for a lot more than I was anticipating a while back.

 

[GraemeVW]

As an aside, the old "Flame Proof" and "Explosion Proof" electrical equipment is something of a collector's item these days, if you do remove it, well worth giving it a clean up and listing on eBay.

I sold some old control panels of a similar type for a lot more than I was anticipating a while back.

It's a shame it's missing the terminal and switch covers. The switch cover wasn't a flat plate either.

Maybe I could make something to make it safe then sell it.

What i didn't realise until now is it's not to protect the unit from flames, it's to keep flames inside.

 

[Munkul]

Those FLP enclosures are designed so you don't use gasket sealant on the flange faces. Instead, the very small gap between flanges allows an ignition from inside the enclosure to release the gasses, and by the time they've made their way out, the gasses are too cool to ignite anything else.

 

[E T]

The Southbend 9a came with a single phase 1/2 hp motor and I have no complaints so far.
I can take 2mm doc (4mm of diameter) without bogging down or belts slipping no problem.
But with rough cuts I usually go for 1mm to 1.5mm doc max to keep the load on the internals on a reasonable level.
I'd say try the 1/2 hp motor first before spending the money on another one.

 

[Brad93]

The Southbend 9a came with a single phase 1/2 hp motor and I have no complaints so far.
I can take 2mm doc (4mm of diameter) without bogging down or belts slipping no problem.
But with rough cuts I usually go for 1mm to 1.5mm doc max to keep the load on the internals on a reasonable level.
I'd say try the 1/2 hp motor first before spending the money on another one.

At what speed? Sounds like the gearing is doing all the work?

 

[E T]

At what speed? Sounds like the gearing is doing all the work?

On a 20mm piece of stock top speed which is 1365rpm according to the books and a 0.1mm/rev feed.
Faster feed and it will start bogging down.

 

[not done it yet]

It's not the original. The original motor and switch gear was all ripped out long ago. This is just some random scrap motor someone has fitted.

Clearly it was not some ‘random scrap’ motor fitted if it was used like that! ‘Selected working motor‘ would be a more truthful phrase, that does not indicate exaggeration or bias.

 

[GraemeVW]

Clearly it was not some ‘random scrap’ motor fitted if it was used like that! ‘Selected working motor‘ would be a more truthful phrase, that does not indicate exaggeration or bias.

You say that, but all the motor covers are missing leaving exposed mains voltage, the grease cups for the bearings are broken and it grumbles.
It also has 3' of cable straight to a plug.

My guess is it was a scrap motor fitted to get it sold at some point.

 

[fizzy]

it will cosume whatever amperage the rating of the motor is as long as its turned on. used or not

I thought an electric motor would use far more under load? That is why some lathes are fitted with amp meters.

 

[not done it yet]

You say that, but all the motor covers are missing leaving exposed mains voltage, the grease cups for the bearings are broken and it grumbles.
It also has 3' of cable straight to a plug.

My guess is it was a scrap motor fitted to get it sold at some point.

Carefully selected, then? Not ‘random’? Terminal covers can be made, grease cups replaced (or motor bearings replaced with sealed-for-life bearings, if applicable). Many electric motors were connected to the mains via a plug, so nothing unusual from years gone by. DoL and NVR switches were only used by industry in the earlier days.

You bought an old lathe that was possibly saved, by you, from the scrappy. Just get on with it is my advice. There seems to be umpteen different threads going around on this one lathe resto.

 

[Seadog]

There are no terminal covers. So what?

 

[GraemeVW]

Carefully selected, then? Not ‘random’? Terminal covers can be made, grease cups replaced (or motor bearings replaced with sealed-for-life bearings, if applicable). Many electric motors were connected to the mains via a plug, so nothing unusual from years gone by. DoL and NVR switches were only used by industry in the earlier days.

You bought an old lathe that was possibly saved, by you, from the scrappy. Just get on with it is my advice. There seems to be umpteen different threads going around on this one lathe resto.

I am getting on with it.

I started a few other threads with specific questions. Is that a problem?

 

[GraemeVW]

There are no terminal covers. So what?

There are alot of exposed terminals and they stick out past the housing.
It just triggers my inner worried.

 

[brightspark]

I thought an electric motor would use far more under load? That is why some lathes are fitted with amp meters.

it will use more under load. the heavier the cut the more amps it will pull. but it still uses power run on idle that was my point if the motor is run up to its max full load amps its handy to have an ameter fitted to make sure your not overloading it using a larger motor than needed your not likely to if fitted with a dol starter at correct rating it will trip the motor if it is overloaded