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JOEPRO
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Yes that reminds me, on mine I did cut off the small useless handle that comes on one end. It usually got caught on the chains anyway. That is why I use the 1/2 ratchet and socket to turn it.
finyuk2005
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that sounds like a mod i need to do!! that handle is useless!
I did a quick search - I confused where I put the bearing - I put a ball race in there as a roller -
Pulled out my engine today
It's taken two full days of prep to get to this stage, removing radiator and ancillaries, draining fluids, removing all hydraulic, coolant, vacuum and electrical lines. Removing the mechanical fuel injection system and all the connections to the auto box. The first task this morning was to...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Still use mine with the mods I made - works easily and well.
arther dailey
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just found your old thread , loving the work space and ramps .
arther dailey
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MetalMonkey
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I blame @8ob entirely. 
I really didn't want to make one. But ended up doing it anyway.
Despite having most of it in scrap, I reckon it still cost about the same as buying a cheap chinese one.
However, hopefully I ended up with something that works a little better.
Because the workshop is a jammed full disaster zone, I ended up having to build it outside on the ground, trying to MIG it up in the rain with a strong wind which was fun.
I suspect stick would have probably been a better choice, but I can't even see that machine. At least the MIG was almost accessible. That's my excuse anyway.
Box was a reused 50x50 gatepost and a bit scrappy, but all I had to hand. I'd have preferred thicker section, but this is still the same thickness as the engine crane boom. Bearings and thread I bought.
I used thrust washer/bearings at each end of the screw, and I found an old broken socket which I welded on so it turns nicely with a ratchet or T bar without any handles getting in the way. Or you can use still use a 30mm deep well socket on the captive nut.
The other end is just secured using double nuts so you can disassemble it or adjust the preload on the thrust washers.
I did a test before I painted it, and it didn't fall apart with an engine on it, so I'm calling that a win. SWL I guess about 500kg.
If I did it again I'd probably change the nut to some sort of floating design and come up with a better design for the shackle.
Now If I manage to clear a few projects, I might be able to actually put it to some use.
I really didn't want to make one. But ended up doing it anyway.
Despite having most of it in scrap, I reckon it still cost about the same as buying a cheap chinese one.
However, hopefully I ended up with something that works a little better.
Because the workshop is a jammed full disaster zone, I ended up having to build it outside on the ground, trying to MIG it up in the rain with a strong wind which was fun.
I suspect stick would have probably been a better choice, but I can't even see that machine. At least the MIG was almost accessible. That's my excuse anyway.
Box was a reused 50x50 gatepost and a bit scrappy, but all I had to hand. I'd have preferred thicker section, but this is still the same thickness as the engine crane boom. Bearings and thread I bought.
I used thrust washer/bearings at each end of the screw, and I found an old broken socket which I welded on so it turns nicely with a ratchet or T bar without any handles getting in the way. Or you can use still use a 30mm deep well socket on the captive nut.
The other end is just secured using double nuts so you can disassemble it or adjust the preload on the thrust washers.
I did a test before I painted it, and it didn't fall apart with an engine on it, so I'm calling that a win. SWL I guess about 500kg.
If I did it again I'd probably change the nut to some sort of floating design and come up with a better design for the shackle.
Now If I manage to clear a few projects, I might be able to actually put it to some use.
arther dailey
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very nice too , I slung mine as no matter what on a l200 they dont work with factory lift points , just hit the bulk head before engines home , re slung with strops and a lot of faffing , pulling in last bit with studs.I blame @8ob entirely.
I really didn't want to make one. But ended up doing it anyway.
Despite having most of it in scrap, I reckon it still cost about the same as buying a cheap chinese one.
However, hopefully I ended up with something that works a little better.
Because the workshop is a jammed full disaster zone, I ended up having to build it outside on the ground, trying to MIG it up in the rain with a strong wind which was fun.
I suspect stick would have probably been a better choice, but I can't even see that machine. At least the MIG was almost accessible. That's my excuse anyway.
Box was a reused 50x50 gatepost and a bit scrappy, but all I had to hand. I'd have preferred thicker section, but this is still the same thickness as the engine crane boom. Bearings and thread I bought.
I used thrust washer/bearings at each end of the screw, and I found an old broken socket which I welded on so it turns nicely with a ratchet or T bar without any handles getting in the way. Or you can use still use a 30mm deep well socket on the captive nut.
The other end is just secured using double nuts so you can disassemble it or adjust the preload on the thrust washers.
I did a test before I painted it, and it didn't fall apart with an engine on it, so I'm calling that a win. SWL I guess about 500kg.
If I did it again I'd probably change the nut to some sort of floating design and come up with a better design for the shackle.
Now If I manage to clear a few projects, I might be able to actually put it to some use.
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arther dailey
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the l200s b4t are just a right so and so, lifting points diagonal so engine tries to twist , you only have a few mm spare between front rack/axle and sump and bulkhead, to clear input shaft , so its a tricky thing on your own, unlike navara which have two piece sump specifically so you can slide engine in easy , then fit oil pick up and lower half of sump , a neat design .
pedrobedro
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I've not done any of this for ages but the handiest thing I found was putting the back end of the motor in the air on ramps or stands if it was something with a gearbox hanging off the back.
premmington
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I got big Epco crane - lifted out countless engines with it - I go for chain and big shackles - and use pointed pry bar to adjust.
If I can't get it just where I want it - I use ratchet strap from engine to big lifting eye on Epco crane.
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Yeah these load levellers - look loverly and I am sure they work a treat - but most things you can get the engine out without taking the bonnet off in real life - and you need a good down angle on the engine crane and the shortest chain to lifting eye your can get - and these adjustable levellers just add height.
If I can't get it just where I want it - I use ratchet strap from engine to big lifting eye on Epco crane.
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Yeah these load levellers - look loverly and I am sure they work a treat - but most things you can get the engine out without taking the bonnet off in real life - and you need a good down angle on the engine crane and the shortest chain to lifting eye your can get - and these adjustable levellers just add height.
arther dailey
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exactly what I did , ratchet straps and in you go . epco ,yup thats a proper crane .
premmington
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I got two of these EPCO cranes - the 1ton one with the round horseshoe (normal one).
I also got a monster 2ton EPCO one with square profile base. This a heavy beast.... (I have not idea where I got this - I think it was discarded behind some garage premises I bought years ago.)
Like this one HF Epco
2 ton mobile engine crane / hoist. Epco H/Duty commercial non folding type. | eBay
This is an old 2 Ton Epco crane / hoist that has been used for loading engines onto a test bed. it has served me well, but no longer needed. It is in sound working condition, if a little dusty. The front legs a parallel and measure 3ft 2in wide on the inside. The height is 6ft 3in and the total...
www.ebay.co.uk
Short chain and hooked short ratchet straps are where it is at from what I can see of the task...
MetalMonkey
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Those Epco cranes are nice bits of kit, but I just wouldn't have the room or the need to justify keeping one.
My little 1 ton folding thing is cheap (and it shows), but compact for the odd time I need it. To be fair has done everything I've asked of it.
As for the load leveller, my usual preference is actually to remove the engine and box together with the subframe from underneath. I tend to find that easier than trying to lift the engine out.
However, on this particular vehicle the easiest way to do it is to take it out of the front. The bonnet has to come off, along with the bumper, headlamps, radiator, crash bar etc - the engine is then lifted slightly and slid out.
I removed the engine using chains, but it was already partly stripped.
The main reason I wanted one was to refit the engine fully built up - which includes a vast amount of very expensive or NLA plastic manifolds, pipes and fuel rails, all of which can get damaged if you try and lift it with just a chain.
The leveller acts as a spreader which allows you to clear anything fragile. The dealer workshop manual stipulates the use of lifting beam, the first time I've seen it actually specified.
In addition, being able to tweak the orientation will also be very handy as there is hardly any clearance either side, and the mounts are an "interesting" design which require a lot of jiggling about to get them fitted.
It adds around six inches to the height, but I could get most of that back by shortening the chain on the end of the boom. Not that I will need it as I don't need to lift it up to clear bumpers/wings etc.
If you were just rigging it with chain you would need to use long lengths to get them as vertical as possible for clearance anyway.
I suppose removing it was enough of a chore for me to appreciate the utility of having one for putting it back in.
I'm sure it’s possible to do it without, but I'm past the point where I enjoy struggling with cars thesedays. Anything that makes life easier is worthwhile.
I didn't really intend to faff about building one, but most of them are too short to clear everything. At least this way I will be able to (hopefully) guarantee to avoid all the unobtanium plastic parts.
RWD3M
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What threaded bar have you used there @MetalMonkey ?
MetalMonkey
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M20 10.9 threaded rod. Zoro supplied it pre-bent, but I managed to find a straightish section
sako243
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RWD3M
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Thanks MMM20 10.9 threaded rod. Zoro supplied it pre-bent, but I managed to find a straightish section
