Windy Miller
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So you raise the whole tool post, rather than the tool itself. What's the thinking behind that!
I always shim up the tool...
- Thread starter Henrik
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So you raise the whole tool post, rather than the tool itself. What's the thinking behind that!
I always shim up the tool...
DanielW
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If you don't have a quickchange toolpost then shimming it up under the toolppost is far simpler ie you don't have to repeat undo/lock three allen screws to get the right height,whereas shimming it up under the toolpost is loosening off the toolpost locking bar is much simpler.
You can stamp the tools with a code and also the shims with the same code for correct height ie tool a=shims a&b,et ectera obviously you will still need to check the height for clarifying on lockdown of the toolpost.
Pete.
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Multiple thin shims will be less rigid than a less number of thick ones, and narrow shims under the tool will compress more readily. It's best to have as little spring in the stack as possible.
Windy Miller
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Hmm that all makes a lot of sense!
Windy Miller
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That's ok if you don't grind your own special tools - then you have to shim each one individually (or the toolpost as described above)
A QCTP is the way forward. I'm looking for a sensibly priced wedge type at the moment. Unless someone can suggest a piston type that has a hardened piston? I'm told that a lot of the cheap ones aren't hardened and they wear very quicky.
Windy Miller
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Be sure to start a thread on that Henrk - I'd be very interested to see how you get on.
MattF
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Old school designs might be an idea if anyone is planning on making their own. The Norman style toolholder, (Drummond used it on the M type), or a variant of, is a fairly straight forward and easily height adjustable quick change design.
DanielW
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So do I,much easier to flip a handle loose,stick a shim or two under,flip the handle tight....away yer go.
Kram
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I also want a QCTP but not paying 100 for the better one? ( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371212896185 ). Theres a aluminium one 30 quid but probably rubbish, and the 50 quid type (RDG/arc) doesnt look much good either.
Have been designing one, couple sketches on paper so far but I might try to make. Just googled the Norman type and its the opposite (large split square block that clamps on a round post). My design TP is a square block with a round bore, one side cut open and a clamp round it top and bottom. Holder is a bit of 30-40mm round bar, keyway down the back to locate it and a bore across it for holding round tools (or square if you cut a slot/broach it). A round holder makes it very easy to make many more on a lathe. Round tools means you can use dead solid carbide drills and endmills...
The bolt to lock the TP would have to be under the tool holder, might be a height issue there.. (but theres other ways it could be clamped down), but it would only take a second and should be repeatable if theres a height screw on top the holder.
Have been designing one, couple sketches on paper so far but I might try to make. Just googled the Norman type and its the opposite (large split square block that clamps on a round post). My design TP is a square block with a round bore, one side cut open and a clamp round it top and bottom. Holder is a bit of 30-40mm round bar, keyway down the back to locate it and a bore across it for holding round tools (or square if you cut a slot/broach it). A round holder makes it very easy to make many more on a lathe. Round tools means you can use dead solid carbide drills and endmills...
The bolt to lock the TP would have to be under the tool holder, might be a height issue there.. (but theres other ways it could be clamped down), but it would only take a second and should be repeatable if theres a height screw on top the holder.
I was originally looking at making QCTP for my little hobbymat lathe, I was looking at making a Norman style toolholder, but then realised I may have issues tightening up the clamping bolt in certain circumstances, I then decided to use a round column with a plunger in it. so far Ive been pretty impressed with how it worked
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...ool-post-for-a-small-lathe.52932/#post-615348
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...ool-post-for-a-small-lathe.52932/#post-615348
One thing that's been annoying me for a long time is that the tailstock was totally rough and shoddy, bodged up with a screw through the handle instead of a woodruff key etc, which resulted in about 1cm (not joking) backlash, and the screw had been ground down to provide a flat for something etc etc.
Well, today I finally cut a new keyslot, and used my adcock and shipley horizontal mill for the first time to actually do some milling (had it for 4 years now, so about time)! What an amazing machine it is - it cut through metal like butter
Key fitted nice and snug, and the handle is now rock solid. I also fitted a thrust bearing in-between to make the action even smoother, and it works really quite well. As luck would have it, the nut on the end of the handle (out of shot) even covers up the screw completely so you can't tell that it's a bit chewed up
Well, today I finally cut a new keyslot, and used my adcock and shipley horizontal mill for the first time to actually do some milling (had it for 4 years now, so about time)! What an amazing machine it is - it cut through metal like butter
Key fitted nice and snug, and the handle is now rock solid. I also fitted a thrust bearing in-between to make the action even smoother, and it works really quite well. As luck would have it, the nut on the end of the handle (out of shot) even covers up the screw completely so you can't tell that it's a bit chewed up
