not done it yet
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My comment would be to avoid `temu’ for reliability of gluing products. To cheap. Rely on well known, reliable, manufacturers of the products!
I would be happy if I could find a supply of decent tape. If anyone into clothing alterations knows of any that would be great.I guess it depends on the quality of the patches.
Where I worked we were supplied with overalls. When they wore at the knees or got ripped the laundry company repaired them with iron on patches.
Naturally some of the inquisitive guys tried to remove the patches - no chance! Whatever glue they used the patch was permanently attached.
Yes ........ it's cobblers .Anyone tried cobbler's glue? It has to be strong and flexible to be any good - various options - https://www.google.com/search?tbm=s...PIAQCYAgCgAgCYAwCSBwCgBwA&sclient=products-cc
The heat on a belt is momentary as the rushing air cools it very quickly .Problem is if the belt gets hot contact glue like this may let go!
I have three such rolls of different melting point for differing types of abrashive roll , butt jointing tape . I'm awaiting a heater foot that will slip inside my soldering iron so as soon as it get to the fusion point ( hand held accurate digital thermometer ) I can attempt a carefully placed butt join weld.When I worked in a food factory there was a machine for cooking omelettes. It had 2 Teflon coated fibre reinforced belts 2' wide and 20' long and they had to be joined on the machine.
The belt was overlapped by 2" with a strip of glue in between, all temporarily held together with staples. Some non stick tape was wrapped around it.
This was placed in the belt welder which was a s/s frame in 2 halves that went on either side of the belt and clamped up. On the face of each half there was a machined face with heating elements.
You positioned the weld over the elements and applied air to the welder. This inflated 2 rubber bellows to clamp the elements onto the belt.
Then you switched on the heat for a set amount of time, only a few minutes, and that melted the glue, bonding the ends of the belt together.
It was hit and miss if it welded, probably a 75% success rate. That improved after we got the machined faces skimmed as they had warped from use.
The glue looked like thin clear plastic, came on a roll and was not sticky when cold.
Not sure if it would work on sanding belts as it was for perfectly flat & thin Teflon belt.
I doubt joining would work however the offcuts could be used alone, I imagine adequate for many tasks, or even 37mm if in half.75 x 533 is also a standard size so that changes the problem to joining the two 25mm offcuts together in the opposite direction (which would seem to be much easier) in order not to be wasteful.
I doubt joining would work however the offcuts could be used alone...
I think I now have all bits for joining belts using differing methods . Chinese interpretation app was difficult for I asked for & eventually got just before Crimbo a plain heating platen / plate.Having difficulty finding 50x530 belts, but plenty of thinner or longer ones. I am wondering if you had any success joining belts?
As for cutting belts along their length, how?
Might be worth asking someone like Henkel ?
Someone in their technical staff ought to know.
They must know something, or they wouldn't be in the pre-eminent position that they are, one might reasonably expect ?I doubt it, they can't answer basic questions about loctite IME...