- Thread starter brewdexta
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Those aren't hugeI'm awaiting my appointment, I bet the doctor has huge hands probably this guy
Maybe he will have Kenney Everett size hands
brewdexta
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We were both wrong, it was a petite female doctor. All good for another year subject to the bloods that can't be completed today. Very slight elevation in glucose so need to watch my carbs a bit, increase exercise a tad and lose about 3 to 4 kg. Not pre-diabetic levels but better to sort it before getting there.
Anyway back to this drill
Anyway back to this drill
Lucky lad!We were both wrong, it was a petite female doctor. All good for another year subject to the bloods that can't be completed today. Very slight elevation in glucose so need to watch my carbs a bit, increase exercise a tad and lose about 3 to 4 kg. Not pre-diabetic levels but better to sort it before getting there.
Anyway back to this drill
brewdexta
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I've not had much time to play, dad's taxi has been on overtime. But with the missus singing at the Eisteddfod in North Wales, thd eldest daughter house sitting a local farmer's animals and the youngest daughter watching "Cocaine Bear" with her mates in Bury, it meant the sink in the utility room was vacant and there were no witnesses.
First the cast head has a soapy bath.
The reason I used the sink rather than the parts washer was firstly, the parts washer is buried behind other stuff , and secondly there's hot water in the utility room. Some of the parts have been painted in a horrible blue, probably with a trowel. The good news is that the twerp that did it didn't clean or sand before painting and hot water allows it to be peeled off.
I left no sign I had used the sink for cleaning a greasy old drill apart from.... I may need to get a new one before missus returns
I did a few more bits like filing the casting in the vents of the motor a bit, as you can see it was a bit rough.
I also found couple more dents in the belt cover. Sanding the cover down revealed why manufacturers like using hammered paint. Very little prep needed, straight to metal no primer, one coat. Saves money. However sanding it revealed loads of rust, the film thickness is too thin. It will be getting etch primer and primer filler before topcoat the time.
First the cast head has a soapy bath.
The reason I used the sink rather than the parts washer was firstly, the parts washer is buried behind other stuff , and secondly there's hot water in the utility room. Some of the parts have been painted in a horrible blue, probably with a trowel. The good news is that the twerp that did it didn't clean or sand before painting and hot water allows it to be peeled off.
I left no sign I had used the sink for cleaning a greasy old drill apart from.... I may need to get a new one before missus returns
I did a few more bits like filing the casting in the vents of the motor a bit, as you can see it was a bit rough.
I also found couple more dents in the belt cover. Sanding the cover down revealed why manufacturers like using hammered paint. Very little prep needed, straight to metal no primer, one coat. Saves money. However sanding it revealed loads of rust, the film thickness is too thin. It will be getting etch primer and primer filler before topcoat the time.
brewdexta
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A bit more progress. I've taken a couple of days off to look after teh kids while the missus is working away. Until recently I could have worked from home at my manager's discretion but now I have to be in the office 3 days a week, company policy. No big deal, it means I can get some quality workshop time in
This is how I left the belt cover the last time I managed to break free and escape to the workshop
Most of the dents pushed out, but a bit rough. Plus rust had got under the hammered paint finished, no primer just one coat of hammered paint.
So it all came off, here it is after removal with a cup brush, followed by a coat of Bilt Hamber Deox C (citric acid gel) as the surface was a bit pitted with rust in places
an hour or so later and another was in the sink in the utility and its looking not too bad
I put a bit of Upol Dolphin glaze on the worst of the minor dents from my amateur tin bashing, a quick sand then a coat of acid etch.
It doesn't look bad from that side, but on this side, the paint revealed a couple of wrinkles from when the drill fell of the blacksmith's bench that I thought were just part of the pressing process, they look far worse now.
I thought about having a go at bashing them out, but decided they were part of the history and patina of the drill, or rather I think its good enough, it fits the casting fine. It must have been hell of a wallop to do that, no wonder the drill casting smashed. The dent at the front is pretty good in that its not very visible unless your looking for it. Hammered paint is quite forgiving so once its had a coat of blue hammered finish, it will be less noticeable, I hope.
This is how I left the belt cover the last time I managed to break free and escape to the workshop
Most of the dents pushed out, but a bit rough. Plus rust had got under the hammered paint finished, no primer just one coat of hammered paint.
So it all came off, here it is after removal with a cup brush, followed by a coat of Bilt Hamber Deox C (citric acid gel) as the surface was a bit pitted with rust in places
an hour or so later and another was in the sink in the utility and its looking not too bad
I put a bit of Upol Dolphin glaze on the worst of the minor dents from my amateur tin bashing, a quick sand then a coat of acid etch.
It doesn't look bad from that side, but on this side, the paint revealed a couple of wrinkles from when the drill fell of the blacksmith's bench that I thought were just part of the pressing process, they look far worse now.
I thought about having a go at bashing them out, but decided they were part of the history and patina of the drill, or rather I think its good enough, it fits the casting fine. It must have been hell of a wallop to do that, no wonder the drill casting smashed. The dent at the front is pretty good in that its not very visible unless your looking for it. Hammered paint is quite forgiving so once its had a coat of blue hammered finish, it will be less noticeable, I hope.
JOEPRO
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Maybe test the hammered paint on spare scrap with the primer on it. It may react with the primer is what I am thinking. (Although modern watered down hammerite hammered is probably OK)A bit more progress. I've taken a couple of days off to look after teh kids while the missus is working away. Until recently I could have worked from home at my manager's discretion but now I have to be in the office 3 days a week, company policy. No big deal, it means I can get some quality workshop time in
This is how I left the belt cover the last time I managed to break free and escape to the workshop
View attachment 407516
Most of the dents pushed out, but a bit rough. Plus rust had got under the hammered paint finished, no primer just one coat of hammered paint.
View attachment 407517
So it all came off, here it is after removal with a cup brush, followed by a coat of Bilt Hamber Deox C (citric acid gel) as the surface was a bit pitted with rust in places
View attachment 407518
an hour or so later and another was in the sink in the utility and its looking not too bad
View attachment 407519
I put a bit of Upol Dolphin glaze on the worst of the minor dents from my amateur tin bashing, a quick sand then a coat of acid etch.
View attachment 407521
It doesn't look bad from that side, but on this side, the paint revealed a couple of wrinkles from when the drill fell of the blacksmith's bench that I thought were just part of the pressing process, they look far worse now.
View attachment 407520
I thought about having a go at bashing them out, but decided they were part of the history and patina of the drill, or rather I think its good enough, it fits the casting fine. It must have been hell of a wallop to do that, no wonder the drill casting smashed. The dent at the front is pretty good in that its not very visible unless your looking for it. Hammered paint is quite forgiving so once its had a coat of blue hammered finish, it will be less noticeable, I hope.
brewdexta
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Next up was the rest of the drill, first I took the base apart
Here's most of the various bits of drill that need paint after most of the loose crud and oil have been removed. The other bits are in the usual take-away trays.
The drill base has a very slight smile
So I cleaned it up a little and applied a bit of JB Weld,
It takes a couple of days for the JB Weld to get nice and hard before sanding so flipped it over and cup brushed and painted the underside. This is after one red oxide undercoat and a topcoat. Probably enough for where it is.
Next up was knobs.
I have two sets of quill boss/handles, well almost. The handles had been welded into one of them, and generally rough as a badgers's. The other only had one handle, and rusty.
Fortunately I bought some 303 stainless and some knobs for this purpose, doesn't time fly, it was 2017 that I bough them for this.
The knobs are threaded M12 and the boss is 1/2" BSW. But next up is lots of sanding and filling, I want to get all the messy bits out of the way. I'm back on DIY duties tomorrow so want to get to the painting stage, that way I can nip into the workshop, spray a coat on and go and do some DIY while it dries.
Here's most of the various bits of drill that need paint after most of the loose crud and oil have been removed. The other bits are in the usual take-away trays.
The drill base has a very slight smile
So I cleaned it up a little and applied a bit of JB Weld,
It takes a couple of days for the JB Weld to get nice and hard before sanding so flipped it over and cup brushed and painted the underside. This is after one red oxide undercoat and a topcoat. Probably enough for where it is.
Next up was knobs.
I have two sets of quill boss/handles, well almost. The handles had been welded into one of them, and generally rough as a badgers's. The other only had one handle, and rusty.
Fortunately I bought some 303 stainless and some knobs for this purpose, doesn't time fly, it was 2017 that I bough them for this.
The knobs are threaded M12 and the boss is 1/2" BSW. But next up is lots of sanding and filling, I want to get all the messy bits out of the way. I'm back on DIY duties tomorrow so want to get to the painting stage, that way I can nip into the workshop, spray a coat on and go and do some DIY while it dries.
brewdexta
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I'm using Rust-Oleum light blue hammered, its a really good match for the 60s/70s machinery but unfortunately they have discontinued it. Fortunately I have a couple of aerosols and almost a litre of paint from a previous job.
Its synthetic rather than Xylene based like Hammerite. I found that out by putting Hammerite thinners into it the first time I sprayed with it, It turned to a snotty clotted melted cheese consistency. As usual the instructions were carp. It said use "industrial thinners". If they said synthetic I would have known what to use, I had gallons of that on the shelf.
I've used it over Upol #8 acid etch and synthetic primer before, its usually pretty good, touch wood :0
brewdexta
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I did a bit more today, should have it all in undercoat tomorrow.
The base/table came up well after filling a couple of drill holes with JB Wed.
This is going to be a bit of a bitch. Two of the screw that hold the gear change cover on have snapped off in the housing, and it's cast aluminium. Trying to drill something that small when it's surounded by softer material is aways tricky. I may just make a new cover and relocate the fixings. It's not the original cover anyway, it should encase the housing, this is just a flat plate do may redrill this cover for now while I make a new one properly. 3D printing may be an option.
Starting to mask up.
It's all had a coat of etch primer now, I had to fill a few small dings but it's close enough now. Undercoat tomorrow or Friday, should get topcoat on at the weekend then I'll let it harden for a week before reassembly.
The base/table came up well after filling a couple of drill holes with JB Wed.
This is going to be a bit of a bitch. Two of the screw that hold the gear change cover on have snapped off in the housing, and it's cast aluminium. Trying to drill something that small when it's surounded by softer material is aways tricky. I may just make a new cover and relocate the fixings. It's not the original cover anyway, it should encase the housing, this is just a flat plate do may redrill this cover for now while I make a new one properly. 3D printing may be an option.
Starting to mask up.
It's all had a coat of etch primer now, I had to fill a few small dings but it's close enough now. Undercoat tomorrow or Friday, should get topcoat on at the weekend then I'll let it harden for a week before reassembly.
Agroshield
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Don't drill the softer material. Go only into the steel to begin with. Then increase drill diameter and go in again. From the one screw that did come out, you know the thread, so you know the tapping drill size.
Alternatively, clamp it up solid and use a (centre-cutting) endmill bigger than the screw. E.g. if the screw is M5, use a 7mm or 8mm endmill. Loctite in a solid plug of aluminium. Then drill and tap to the original size.
A welded solution would be to cut down the outside with a slitting disc, prise out the broken steel screw, weld it up solid and reform the threaded hole.
brewdexta
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I don't intend to to drill the ali, its just that from previous experience small drills tend to get deflected into it from the harder material, or snap. An end mill is a good idea, but I'll try a small left hand drill first and see if I can grind down the end, centre tap it and hope it doesn't deflect.
brewdexta
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Well, in the end I got an undercoat on it late last night, now its got a coat of Rustoluem hammered light blue.
Getting the correct thinners was a problem. The PPE data sheet didn't reveal the composition, and the Rustoleum hammered thinners is discontinued and there was conflicting information on the web.
I thought it was synthetic, but I got confused with the Manor hammered finish, that is synthetic and Xylene like Hammerite turns the paint to snot.
So I mixed some of the paint with Xylene and some synthetic thinners, both seemed ok. So I went with 10% synthetic. I tried it on a surface that wasn't going to be seen and it didn't react.
Then I found a Youtube video where he used Xylene and a hardener...... So the worst that can happen is it doesn't harden, but I doubt that, its already going tacky. I only had the lunch hour to do it in as I'm working today. 3M PPS system helps with cleaning up. I have enough paint mixed to do the other side of the double sided components this evening.
Not too shabby considering its the first time since last year that I've fired up the big compressor, most jobs have been small and rattle cans have sufficed.
Only one run, this is in the base of the drill. It will be filled with swarf and cutting oil soon so I'm not too worried.
Getting the correct thinners was a problem. The PPE data sheet didn't reveal the composition, and the Rustoleum hammered thinners is discontinued and there was conflicting information on the web.
I thought it was synthetic, but I got confused with the Manor hammered finish, that is synthetic and Xylene like Hammerite turns the paint to snot.
So I mixed some of the paint with Xylene and some synthetic thinners, both seemed ok. So I went with 10% synthetic. I tried it on a surface that wasn't going to be seen and it didn't react.
Then I found a Youtube video where he used Xylene and a hardener...... So the worst that can happen is it doesn't harden, but I doubt that, its already going tacky. I only had the lunch hour to do it in as I'm working today. 3M PPS system helps with cleaning up. I have enough paint mixed to do the other side of the double sided components this evening.
Not too shabby considering its the first time since last year that I've fired up the big compressor, most jobs have been small and rattle cans have sufficed.
Only one run, this is in the base of the drill. It will be filled with swarf and cutting oil soon so I'm not too worried.
brewdexta
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The paint is drying nicely, and is turning out quite well. I think the column bolts were in good nick, if not I'll clean and blue them tomorrow.
I'm going to clear some bench space and stick it next to the machine it will replace.
I'll service this and clean it up before selling, assuming the Meddings works as planned.
The Warco/Alpine/ Taiwanese Mill/Drills seem to be sort after for smaller workshops, and I only ever use it for drilling so a bit of a waste in my workshop, probably better earnings it's keep elsewhere .
I'm going to clear some bench space and stick it next to the machine it will replace.
I'll service this and clean it up before selling, assuming the Meddings works as planned.
The Warco/Alpine/ Taiwanese Mill/Drills seem to be sort after for smaller workshops, and I only ever use it for drilling so a bit of a waste in my workshop, probably better earnings it's keep elsewhere .
brewdexta
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The paint has hardened nicely, but I'll leave it for another couple of days before assembly, that will give me time to blue all the nuts and bolts.
I sprayed the other side of the remaining parts, I mixed just enough paint. That 3M PPS system does take all the pain out of spraying. I have one 3M pot with paint in, another with gun wash. The paint I mixed yesterday sat in the pot overnight with a lid on it, so I was up and spraying in minutes.
I painted two motor back plates as they are different sizes and I won't know which one is the best fit until I've reassembled it.
I need to buy new bearings for the quill, I'll do that once I know the belt size needed, probably Z35, so I can order them together.
I bought a nice relatively unmolested Nippy vice for this of the bay, it arrived this morning. Needs a clean and lube but the jaws are in good nick and only one small witness mark on the base.
I sprayed the other side of the remaining parts, I mixed just enough paint. That 3M PPS system does take all the pain out of spraying. I have one 3M pot with paint in, another with gun wash. The paint I mixed yesterday sat in the pot overnight with a lid on it, so I was up and spraying in minutes.
I painted two motor back plates as they are different sizes and I won't know which one is the best fit until I've reassembled it.
I need to buy new bearings for the quill, I'll do that once I know the belt size needed, probably Z35, so I can order them together.
I bought a nice relatively unmolested Nippy vice for this of the bay, it arrived this morning. Needs a clean and lube but the jaws are in good nick and only one small witness mark on the base.
brewdexta
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I put the base on the bench in its temporary position next to the mill/drill its replacing. Mainly as it was the easiest way to clean up the column. A strop with 240 grit emery tape then strips of extra fine scotch pad cleaned it up nicely.
I won't do much tomorrow as its brew day. 80 litres of Elland Brewery White Rat clone.
I won't do much tomorrow as its brew day. 80 litres of Elland Brewery White Rat clone.
God mode restorations
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Looks very well indeed
brewdexta
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I was going to be brewing today, but our spring water smelled funny. My fault, when I cleared the area for the solar panels, some of the vegetation fell on top of the spring tank. It started to rot and the rain washed some of the essence into the tank.
My fault, so I've pumped it out and will give it a good clean tomorrow. I need to make a stainless frame for the paving when I do the patio next year so this gives me an opportunity to measure it properly.
So I got a bit more time in the workshop. I reassembled the lifting rack mechanism and put the head casting on. Quite a useful head height.
It's easier to work on it with the head lowered, I clamped the lifting mech just so the top of the head doesn't clear the pillar at full lift. At full drop, once there's a chuck on it, the quill should be able to reach the table, or close enough.
Only slight design fault is the winding handle hits the head at full drop with the head straight ahead, but you can twist the head to one side slightly.
Dog walking to the pub next, if the rain stops...
My fault, so I've pumped it out and will give it a good clean tomorrow. I need to make a stainless frame for the paving when I do the patio next year so this gives me an opportunity to measure it properly.
So I got a bit more time in the workshop. I reassembled the lifting rack mechanism and put the head casting on. Quite a useful head height.
It's easier to work on it with the head lowered, I clamped the lifting mech just so the top of the head doesn't clear the pillar at full lift. At full drop, once there's a chuck on it, the quill should be able to reach the table, or close enough.
Only slight design fault is the winding handle hits the head at full drop with the head straight ahead, but you can twist the head to one side slightly.
Dog walking to the pub next, if the rain stops...
