- Thread starter brewdexta
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Looks better than new!, can see where all the work has gone.
brewdexta
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Thanks guys 
I had a go at removing the snapped screws in the gear lever housing.
I had painted it as I didn't want to get the spray gun out again, so screwed it to a bit of ply.
I centre punched the remnants of screws and used a left hand drill.
Result! They both unscrewed.
These left handed drills have got me out of plenty of holes, literally
Dog walk time, she's hiding because it's horrible out there.
I had a go at removing the snapped screws in the gear lever housing.
I had painted it as I didn't want to get the spray gun out again, so screwed it to a bit of ply.
I centre punched the remnants of screws and used a left hand drill.
Result! They both unscrewed.
These left handed drills have got me out of plenty of holes, literally
Dog walk time, she's hiding because it's horrible out there.
Too true - it's rare to find one at an affordable price.
Are you intending the Meddings do light milling chores?
brewdexta
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I have a couple of Tom Senior mills, a light vertical and an M1 so no need and not really designed for it.
That's what I was wondering! It seems you've got mills well covered then!
brewdexta
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I've blued a few nuts and bolts and while they soak in oil I started on the quill
After a bit of a clean, first up is taking out the grub screw on the collar via the hole in the quill.
The grub screw for holding the aluminium quill seal was missing so prized it of carefully revealing the lower bearing and a broken circlip, you can see one of its ears on the back of the aluminium seal
It was a bit of a pig to get off but eventually removed, I found a replacement in my dads stash. The main shaft can then be driven out from below. There's a few ways of doing this, last time I pushed it from the top complete with bottom bearing.
The bearings are Hoffmann 125AC (angular contact) at the bottom and SKEFCO (SKF) 6203 at the top.
The modern equivalent of the 125AC is the 7205B, I'll order SKF bearings for both. They're not too worn and they could well be original, or possibly changed nearly 50 years ago as they stopped calling SKF "Skefco" back in the 1970s IIRC.
The shaft isn't in too bad condition for its ages, just needs a bit of tidying up around the drift hole
After a bit of a clean, first up is taking out the grub screw on the collar via the hole in the quill.
The grub screw for holding the aluminium quill seal was missing so prized it of carefully revealing the lower bearing and a broken circlip, you can see one of its ears on the back of the aluminium seal
It was a bit of a pig to get off but eventually removed, I found a replacement in my dads stash. The main shaft can then be driven out from below. There's a few ways of doing this, last time I pushed it from the top complete with bottom bearing.
The bearings are Hoffmann 125AC (angular contact) at the bottom and SKEFCO (SKF) 6203 at the top.
The modern equivalent of the 125AC is the 7205B, I'll order SKF bearings for both. They're not too worn and they could well be original, or possibly changed nearly 50 years ago as they stopped calling SKF "Skefco" back in the 1970s IIRC.
The shaft isn't in too bad condition for its ages, just needs a bit of tidying up around the drift hole
brewdexta
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I got a bit more done last night. First I assembled the motor after painting.
The nuts holding it together were covered in rust and the chrome gone so cleaned them up and blued them.
Only issue is that the spring washer on the bench should be inside the motor to provide clearance between the bearing and the case. So it will need to come apart again, doh!
I cleaned up the bolts to hold the motor to the plate then realised that these were from the other motor that has a pressed steel base. The base on this motor is cast aluminium and much thicker so the bolts are too short. Simple, look into my stash of imperial bolts, no go, 22tpi, turns out to be 5/16" BSF. I may have some somewhere if I want to rifle through several drawers of bolts, in the end I just bought some. I also got some 6BA screws for the lid on the gearchange while I was at it.
I then replaced the oil seal on the base of the gearbox, this is the one that should be 24.6mm or similar, and is now unobtainable so replaced it with a 24mm seal. I then left it overnight with oil in it. No drops on the cardboard which is a good sign.
Apart from taking the motor apart again, next job is putting the gear change housing on and adjusting the gear change travel before I put the lid on the gearbox.
I thought I had a spare 2MT keyless chuck knocking about, but I was mistaken so ordered one from RDG for the princely sum of 40 quid. Quill bearings and belt arrive this week so I should have most stuff to finish the drill.
The nuts holding it together were covered in rust and the chrome gone so cleaned them up and blued them.
Only issue is that the spring washer on the bench should be inside the motor to provide clearance between the bearing and the case. So it will need to come apart again, doh!
I cleaned up the bolts to hold the motor to the plate then realised that these were from the other motor that has a pressed steel base. The base on this motor is cast aluminium and much thicker so the bolts are too short. Simple, look into my stash of imperial bolts, no go, 22tpi, turns out to be 5/16" BSF. I may have some somewhere if I want to rifle through several drawers of bolts, in the end I just bought some. I also got some 6BA screws for the lid on the gearchange while I was at it.
I then replaced the oil seal on the base of the gearbox, this is the one that should be 24.6mm or similar, and is now unobtainable so replaced it with a 24mm seal. I then left it overnight with oil in it. No drops on the cardboard which is a good sign.
Apart from taking the motor apart again, next job is putting the gear change housing on and adjusting the gear change travel before I put the lid on the gearbox.
I thought I had a spare 2MT keyless chuck knocking about, but I was mistaken so ordered one from RDG for the princely sum of 40 quid. Quill bearings and belt arrive this week so I should have most stuff to finish the drill.
Seadog
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On the subject of seals, is there a breather, even just a small drilled hole, in the gearbox? My Progress leaks, but only when it gets very hot, as in the weather. It's a feature that I'll add the next time I play with it.
brewdexta
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Hi Graham, from memory there's an inlet on top for oil, and what I believe is a breather but I'm on my way down to the smoke at the moment so can't confirm the latter. IIRC, the breather is sealed on delivery when new and it has a sign on it saying remove the seal before use.
brewdexta
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Just confirmed, the vent is item 94 in the attached diagram
brewdexta
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Yes you just remove the small screw that is put in it after delivery as per the instructions. Just like the previous owner of this drill............... didn't
I'll take that out once I've finished fiddling.
I got a few deliveries yesterday, quill bearings, new belt, a few external circlips and the Albrecht chuck
After taking the motor apart to add the spring washer I had missed, I started reassembling the head last night. First thing is to adjust the travel on the gear lever, I couldn't get it to play nicely, the gears weren't meshing fully, enough to turn them but only quarter of the width of the cog. It was as if it needed addition vertical travel, but then the gear change mechanism would have fallen off the splines just below the bearing on the left, which would mean the bearing needs moving up the shaft.
After a couple of minutes it dawned on me. The cover has no shoulder in the housing for the right hand bearing, I had trial fitted it and assumed this aligned all the shafts vertically. BTW this picture is after I has sussed it out, and the shaft with the big cog on the right needed to go down, the bearing underneath it wasn't fully home in the housing.
As you can see, the left hand bearing has a shoulder, but the right hand doesn't so it won't automatically push the bottom bearing into its housing.
So check the gears are meshed then a light tap with the hide mallet and all was well. I got the travel adjusted so the gears meshed fully but there was clearance between various gears. Much easier to do with the top off, the grub screws in the gear knob housing are now in the right place and the spring to keep the knob in the right place is on.
I'll get the cover on the gearbox and gear change housing then move on the quill bearings this evening.
brewdexta
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Just as you get the lid on the gearbox bolted down.........
While I was at it, I thought I would get the pulley on, that way I can line up the motor pulley and bolt the motor on as there are multiple bolt holes on the motor plate. So I get the pulley from the tub of bits, needs a bit of a clean, then I notice that the small pulley is mullered, I had forgotten about that. No problem, get the spare, bigger bore and has a keyway...
Existing shaft just has a flat for a grub screw
The shaft in the spare gearbox has the keyway and the pully has a grub screw opposite, a better design, The spare gearbox has seen better days, the wear pads that move the change gear are past it, you can see the powdered cog where a previous owner has changed gear while its still running.
Given the pads on the gearbox I now have in the drill have a bit of wear, but serviceable, I think I will go with the damaged pulley for now, I'm going to fit a VFD so its unlikely I will use that pulley anyway. I'll refurbish the old gearbox at some point then I can change it later. That means buying one delrin cog, fortunately the smaller one, £103 each.
There are other design changes too. The cover on the front/top bearing is plain on this gearbox and the spare.
Inside the spare you can see where the quill hits it, this isn't evident on the current gearbox so maybe adjusted wrong.
On my radial arm drill that I refurbished ages ago, they have a redesigned cover with an oiler, presumably the top bearing was getting starved of oil, I have packed the current gearbox bearing with grease, but I may look at this mod when I refurbish the spare gearbox. I'll probably be retired by then so may have the time
While I was at it, I thought I would get the pulley on, that way I can line up the motor pulley and bolt the motor on as there are multiple bolt holes on the motor plate. So I get the pulley from the tub of bits, needs a bit of a clean, then I notice that the small pulley is mullered, I had forgotten about that. No problem, get the spare, bigger bore and has a keyway...
Existing shaft just has a flat for a grub screw
The shaft in the spare gearbox has the keyway and the pully has a grub screw opposite, a better design, The spare gearbox has seen better days, the wear pads that move the change gear are past it, you can see the powdered cog where a previous owner has changed gear while its still running.
Given the pads on the gearbox I now have in the drill have a bit of wear, but serviceable, I think I will go with the damaged pulley for now, I'm going to fit a VFD so its unlikely I will use that pulley anyway. I'll refurbish the old gearbox at some point then I can change it later. That means buying one delrin cog, fortunately the smaller one, £103 each.
There are other design changes too. The cover on the front/top bearing is plain on this gearbox and the spare.
Inside the spare you can see where the quill hits it, this isn't evident on the current gearbox so maybe adjusted wrong.
On my radial arm drill that I refurbished ages ago, they have a redesigned cover with an oiler, presumably the top bearing was getting starved of oil, I have packed the current gearbox bearing with grease, but I may look at this mod when I refurbish the spare gearbox. I'll probably be retired by then so may have the time
God mode restorations
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It's all good funJust as you get the lid on the gearbox bolted down.........
While I was at it, I thought I would get the pulley on, that way I can line up the motor pulley and bolt the motor on as there are multiple bolt holes on the motor plate. So I get the pulley from the tub of bits, needs a bit of a clean, then I notice that the small pulley is mullered, I had forgotten about that. No problem, get the spare, bigger bore and has a keyway...
View attachment 408995
Existing shaft just has a flat for a grub screw
View attachment 408994
The shaft in the spare gearbox has the keyway and the pully has a grub screw opposite, a better design, The spare gearbox has seen better days, the wear pads that move the change gear are past it, you can see the powdered cog where a previous owner has changed gear while its still running.
View attachment 408996
Given the pads on the gearbox I now have in the drill have a bit of wear, but serviceable, I think I will go with the damaged pulley for now, I'm going to fit a VFD so its unlikely I will use that pulley anyway. I'll refurbish the old gearbox at some point then I can change it later. That means buying one delrin cog, fortunately the smaller one, £103 each.
There are other design changes too. The cover on the front/top bearing is plain on this gearbox and the spare.
View attachment 408992
Inside the spare you can see where the quill hits it, this isn't evident on the current gearbox so maybe adjusted wrong.
View attachment 408993
On my radial arm drill that I refurbished ages ago, they have a redesigned cover with an oiler, presumably the top bearing was getting starved of oil, I have packed the current gearbox bearing with grease, but I may look at this mod when I refurbish the spare gearbox. I'll probably be retired by then so may have the time
View attachment 408991
brewdexta
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I got the motor fitted and tried the belt cover for size. The cover is also on the gear change.
Front and side model and spindle speed plates on.
I started to rewire it, putting a cable to the motor from the switch housing when I remembered that I'm using a VFD so the motor goes direct to the VFD and the switch is wired back to the VFD too.
The knob on the forward/reverse switch is a bit rusty, it will spend the weekend in evaporust after a bit of a wire brush then I'll blue it.
I'm thinking where to put the speed control. Easy enough to make a small bracket but something more elegant may occur to me eventually.
Front and side model and spindle speed plates on.
I started to rewire it, putting a cable to the motor from the switch housing when I remembered that I'm using a VFD so the motor goes direct to the VFD and the switch is wired back to the VFD too.
The knob on the forward/reverse switch is a bit rusty, it will spend the weekend in evaporust after a bit of a wire brush then I'll blue it.
I'm thinking where to put the speed control. Easy enough to make a small bracket but something more elegant may occur to me eventually.
Agroshield
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Maybe the collar on the quill nose, that holds the depth stop rod, was taken off or clamped too low on the quill. That would allow the quill to top out higher than it should do.
brewdexta
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I was out most of the weekend visiting my mum, Whitby and Scarborough, generally getting soaked. But got a bit more done yesterday evening. I replaced the bearings on the quill and refitted it, then started on the quill rack and pinion. The pinion gear was ok, but the thread on the end was chewed up so you can't tighten the nut sufficiently.
fortunately, I had a spare, but this is only marginally better but will get me by until I modify the knackered one.
its a carp design, it relies on a dome nut and washer tightening sufficiently not to undo as you move the rack back and forth, this is from my Meddings A10 radial arm drill which has the same M4 head. The washer turns against the spring housing as you move the rack back and forth, very poor.
what actually happens is the nut can comes loose and as people over tighten it, potentially without the washer, the threads get destroyed, This is from my Alpine/Warco mill/drill, simple lock nut arrangement, no issues.
I thought the return spring was ok, but closer inspection is was broken so I have another on the way, along with a 2BA oil nipple for the bottom of the quill and a thrust bearing for the modified rack. I shall weld a bit more onto the knackered rack, turn it down and re-thread it. It will have room for the thrust bearing, which is about 4 or 5mm including washers, a lock nut and dome nut.
These are the gear selectors on the spare gearbox, well worn. I'll machine a new pair from Delrin. I aim to get this gearbox fixed so I have a spare ready should I screw up the currently being renovated drill or the radial arm drill.
fortunately, I had a spare, but this is only marginally better but will get me by until I modify the knackered one.
its a carp design, it relies on a dome nut and washer tightening sufficiently not to undo as you move the rack back and forth, this is from my Meddings A10 radial arm drill which has the same M4 head. The washer turns against the spring housing as you move the rack back and forth, very poor.
what actually happens is the nut can comes loose and as people over tighten it, potentially without the washer, the threads get destroyed, This is from my Alpine/Warco mill/drill, simple lock nut arrangement, no issues.
I thought the return spring was ok, but closer inspection is was broken so I have another on the way, along with a 2BA oil nipple for the bottom of the quill and a thrust bearing for the modified rack. I shall weld a bit more onto the knackered rack, turn it down and re-thread it. It will have room for the thrust bearing, which is about 4 or 5mm including washers, a lock nut and dome nut.
These are the gear selectors on the spare gearbox, well worn. I'll machine a new pair from Delrin. I aim to get this gearbox fixed so I have a spare ready should I screw up the currently being renovated drill or the radial arm drill.
