Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
No The roof is shot to peices. Although the key fob is original
Cheers
Cheers
- Thread starter Springerdinger
- Start date
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
- Messages
- 17,995
- Location
- East Yorkshire
The best tool in the box, is been able to laugh at ones self. Keep it up
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
A small update on progress
The inner sill mebrane and castle rail were pre assembled on the workmates prior to fitting on the car. This mean't they were square and made fitting it to the car straight forward.
The outer sill was put on with the door still fitted to get the lines correct.
The difficulty here was the drivers door was badly swollen with rust and a 1/16 inch of filler.
the outer sill can be clampled to the inner assembly and two or three trolley jacks used under neath to push up the bottom of the flared outer sill to get it to line up. This also brings up the door line.
What was nice is that having assemble the castle etc off the car everything has lined up nicely.
The inner sill mebrane and castle rail were pre assembled on the workmates prior to fitting on the car. This mean't they were square and made fitting it to the car straight forward.
The outer sill was put on with the door still fitted to get the lines correct.
The difficulty here was the drivers door was badly swollen with rust and a 1/16 inch of filler.
the outer sill can be clampled to the inner assembly and two or three trolley jacks used under neath to push up the bottom of the flared outer sill to get it to line up. This also brings up the door line.
What was nice is that having assemble the castle etc off the car everything has lined up nicely.
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
A tech bit.
I had the each side jacked up while fitting the sills.
I used an app on the old smart phone to measure the angle of the top of the inner sill steps before and after fitting and compared to each other.
Doing this along with all the other datum points helps when it comes to door lines.
Measuring tip
Measure, measure, measure, measure. Oh yes measure
On to the floor
I had the each side jacked up while fitting the sills.
I used an app on the old smart phone to measure the angle of the top of the inner sill steps before and after fitting and compared to each other.
Doing this along with all the other datum points helps when it comes to door lines.
Measuring tip
Measure, measure, measure, measure. Oh yes measure
On to the floor
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
ato jets may take a closer look
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
The floor
The steel craft panel includes flanges and the tread plate at the end.
the heritage does not.
I picked up my floor pan from ebay half price. A steel craft panel.
I removed flanges to make it closer to the heritage pan . I needed the tread plate at the end as mine had rotted out.
I drilled many, many holes for plug welds in the floor pan. I also made sure the flanges around the gear box tunnel etc were solid.
Tip
I dry fitted the floor pan then sprayed primer under the cross rails onto the under side of the floor pan to show me where the edges were for the plug welds
a few pics of the floor
The top pic shows the steelcraft panel with the flanges taken off. I wanted to to practice plug welds. The flanges tend to get seam welded on. In any case I would have had to weld onto my nice new inner sill which I did not fancy
The steel craft panel includes flanges and the tread plate at the end.
the heritage does not.
I picked up my floor pan from ebay half price. A steel craft panel.
I removed flanges to make it closer to the heritage pan . I needed the tread plate at the end as mine had rotted out.
I drilled many, many holes for plug welds in the floor pan. I also made sure the flanges around the gear box tunnel etc were solid.
Tip
I dry fitted the floor pan then sprayed primer under the cross rails onto the under side of the floor pan to show me where the edges were for the plug welds
a few pics of the floor
The top pic shows the steelcraft panel with the flanges taken off. I wanted to to practice plug welds. The flanges tend to get seam welded on. In any case I would have had to weld onto my nice new inner sill which I did not fancy
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
I plan to get some brush on seam sealer over the seams and plugs inside and out.
Access into the footwell with welding mask is tight but you need to get in there for the best plug welds. Torch directly over the hole. if you angle the torch I found it tends to eat the side of the hole.
I was laying head first in there squashed up when a hot bit of weld went through the my welding glove seam.
My little legs kicked as I scrambled to get the glove off and back out of the footwell. New gloves please. ouch so funny
Next jobs.
1. Repair the door post
2. Finish rear wheel arch
3. Finish tiling the bathroom
4. Refit lower rear wing section
happy days
Access into the footwell with welding mask is tight but you need to get in there for the best plug welds. Torch directly over the hole. if you angle the torch I found it tends to eat the side of the hole.
I was laying head first in there squashed up when a hot bit of weld went through the my welding glove seam.
My little legs kicked as I scrambled to get the glove off and back out of the footwell. New gloves please. ouch
so funnyNext jobs.
1. Repair the door post
2. Finish rear wheel arch
3. Finish tiling the bathroom
4. Refit lower rear wing section
happy days
- Messages
- 22,492
- Location
- Birmingham
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Ha Ha so true. Wait until I add the new front wing it will have a library and ball room.
I will call it the north wing
I will call it the north wing
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
A new door post is about £95.00 ish plus shipping
so I decided to make a sub assembly for the bottom section.
I made up some cardboard templates before I removed each side to get the shapes for the bottom of the door post.
Then removed the rusty metal.
repaired the side kick panel that the door post fixes to.
so I decided to make a sub assembly for the bottom section.
I made up some cardboard templates before I removed each side to get the shapes for the bottom of the door post.
Then removed the rusty metal.
repaired the side kick panel that the door post fixes to.
Last edited:
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
This is the sub assembley
Checked it for fit as its been put together.
Stll need to put the holes and the threaded back plate on for the hinge but you get the idea
needs a bit more work yet, need to get my argon/co2 refilled this week to finish it off
I will plug weld the flanges and seem weld the joint to the post
Checked it for fit as its been put together.
Stll need to put the holes and the threaded back plate on for the hinge but you get the idea
needs a bit more work yet, need to get my argon/co2 refilled this week to finish it off
I will plug weld the flanges and seem weld the joint to the post
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Any MG Owners its the International MG show at the Stoneleigh show ground
near Kenilworth, Leamington this coming Saturday.
£12 on the door or £8.00 booked tickets under 16's get in free I believe
Could be some bargains. I noticed one spare parts sellers will bring pre bought items to the show ground to save shipping cost
Hope this helps
Chris
near Kenilworth, Leamington this coming Saturday.
£12 on the door or £8.00 booked tickets under 16's get in free I believe
Could be some bargains. I noticed one spare parts sellers will bring pre bought items to the show ground to save shipping cost
Hope this helps
Chris
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Decided to reward myself for doing the sills and do a nice easy job
Changing the rear valance.
Turns out there is some remedial work needed on the chassis spring hangers
so fitting the valance will have to wait.
On the plus side the boot floor is in nice condition - finally a good bit
In the mean time the rear Axle, fuel tank have all been removed
Changing the rear valance.
Turns out there is some remedial work needed on the chassis spring hangers
so fitting the valance will have to wait.
On the plus side the boot floor is in nice condition - finally a good bit
In the mean time the rear Axle, fuel tank have all been removed
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Comedy bit in the thread from the "Tales of the meadiocre DIY mechanic"
There is something warm and fuzzy about working on a car when its by choice.
Curse's to my Rover 75 which forced me to stop work on the MG and replace the slave and master cylinder on the clutch in Feb
strip half the gubbings out of the engine bay ,drop the subframe, gearbox off, then fit new slave.
Start the car,
hear a clicking noise - Flat clutch pedal - pressure plate cuts through the bleed pipe - idiot
strip half the gubbings out of the engine bay, drop the sub frame - gearbox off (order new part)- gear box on - subframe up, gubbings in
phew its just not the same when you have to do it.
Note the bike wheel, "The bike of shame" (for failed mediocre diy mechanic to ride to work) while the parts were ordered - that nearly mean't buying a " NEW RELIABLE CAR OF SHAME
"
Fortunately there is life in the old rover yet and 2000 miles since the repair.
Until the next adventure of the "Tales of the mediocre DIY mechanic"
There is something warm and fuzzy about working on a car when its by choice.
Curse's to my Rover 75 which forced me to stop work on the MG and replace the slave and master cylinder on the clutch in Feb
strip half the gubbings out of the engine bay ,drop the subframe, gearbox off, then fit new slave.
Start the car,
hear a clicking noise - Flat clutch pedal - pressure plate cuts through the bleed pipe - idiotstrip half the gubbings out of the engine bay, drop the sub frame - gearbox off (order new part)- gear box on - subframe up, gubbings in
phew its just not the same when you have to do it.
Note the bike wheel, "The bike of shame" (for failed mediocre diy mechanic to ride to work) while the parts were ordered - that nearly mean't buying a " NEW RELIABLE CAR OF SHAME
"Fortunately there is life in the old rover yet and 2000 miles since the repair.
Until the next adventure of the "Tales of the mediocre DIY mechanic"
Epicyclic
Member
- Messages
- 377
- Location
- Nr Worcester, UK
Ho Ho, mate had a ZTT one of those - he had to take the wheel off to change the headlight bulb...
Back to the MG, are you keeping the rear axle/suspension stock? I've just sold a TR7 axle to a chap who is going to change the whole rear end, hadn't heard of that one before. Can't think why as you still have drum brakes and the TR7/SD1 set up isn't great as standard.
Keep up the good work, H.
Back to the MG, are you keeping the rear axle/suspension stock? I've just sold a TR7 axle to a chap who is going to change the whole rear end, hadn't heard of that one before. Can't think why as you still have drum brakes and the TR7/SD1 set up isn't great as standard.
Keep up the good work, H.
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Hi Epyclic
I think I will be adding fast road bushes and a panhard rod.
The drums are pretty big on the MG and seem to stop it pretty well, although not as good as disc brakes.
The reason for the panhard rod is because when they built many thousands of the mgb's they put the spring hangers/fixings in the wrong place and if you look many MG's REAR Wheels are slightly offset at the back and suffer tyre rub. - The panhard stops the sag and helps reposition the wheels - Good old fashioned british manufacture.
On the rover I took the bumper off to change the headlight bulb. I can't get my hand into the opening in the wheel arch. take 10 minutes to whip the bumper off
I think I will be adding fast road bushes and a panhard rod.
The drums are pretty big on the MG and seem to stop it pretty well, although not as good as disc brakes.
The reason for the panhard rod is because when they built many thousands of the mgb's they put the spring hangers/fixings in the wrong place and if you look many MG's REAR Wheels are slightly offset at the back and suffer tyre rub. - The panhard stops the sag and helps reposition the wheels - Good old fashioned british manufacture.
On the rover I took the bumper off to change the headlight bulb. I can't get my hand into the opening in the wheel arch. take 10 minutes to whip the bumper off
