mig like tig again

[Miggy89]

when i do 'mig like tig' i use the forward backward method it does indeed take a lot of practice to get right tho i find if you can get yourself into a rythm with movement & distance of movement you can achieve the result quite well, keep trying it bb youll crack it soon enough

 

[Miggy89]

something like this?

 

[gordon stephenson]

ZTfab also states that it takes a while to dial in the welding settings, Somewhat lower than usual, but no spatter and consistent beads as straight as an arrow. He welds like a machine, but other forum members have seen him weld and its definitely all by hand, I believe he has now branched out to selling plasma/laser cut components for the buyer to weld at home,

 

[God mode restorations]

I like the mig like tig discussion. Pro fabrication techniques explains the method he uses. I have tried and tried and can't get the hang of it. Some people hate it and others like it. I like the look of it and just wanted to master it out of shear principles. But haven't as yet.

 

[brokenbiker]

View attachment 89844 something like this?

This is the goal...ive got similar but im not consistent enough to get the ripples evenly spaced and the same height...i will get there...i am usually quite good at getting into a rythym once i have got the technique down.

 

[Richard.]

That's the way I've seen my good friend do it and he makes it look very pretty. Now as you well know it's a skill he's picked up through curiosity and it's not the sort of welding he, I or you would do if it was applied to a critical joint.
I've tried it and like I say I'm not very good at it tbh but like anything if I did it often I'm sure I'd get the hang of it. It must be done colder than what you would normally weld at and the timing/movement distances need to be spot on or it shows.
Just changing the direction slightly have you considered making it from stainless and doing the border with SS mma. Stainless mma welding can really look stunning

 

[brokenbiker]

That's the way I've seen my good friend do it and he makes it look very pretty. Now as you well know it's a skill he's picked up through curiosity and it's not the sort of welding he, I or you would do if it was applied to a critical joint.
I've tried it and like I say I'm not very good at it tbh but like anything if I did it often I'm sure I'd get the hang of it. It must be done colder than what you would normally weld at and the timing/movement distances need to be spot on or it shows.
Just changing the direction slightly have you considered making it from stainless and doing the border with SS mma. Stainless mma welding can really look stunning

I did the lettering on the first one with 309 rods and it did look good, I hadn't actually thought of using them for the border though...might see what I can come up with tomorrow as I will have the welders out to do a repair on the neighbours car

 

[Richard.]

I did the lettering on the first one with 309 rods and it did look good, I hadn't actually thought of using them for the border though...might see what I can come up with tomorrow as I will have the welders out to do a repair on the neighbours car

It would look good if you can do a full length or width of the boarder in one run off length of the rod. If that can't be done a start/stop mid way may spoil it. Worth looking at as an alternative if the tiggy miggy stuff ain't happening.

 

[brokenbiker]

It would look good if you can do a full length or width of the boarder in one run off length of the rod. If that can't be done a start/stop mid way may spoil it. Worth looking at as an alternative if the tiggy miggy stuff ain't happening.

I wonder if I could get a 300mm long run out of one rod? The top and bottom edge is around 350 and ideally the frame should be inset 25mm all around...the 2 uprights are only going to be 200mm long so they should be easy...

Might play with some 6013 and see how neat I can make tie ins even if I have to fettle them afterwards

 

[brokenbiker]

@Richard. on the thery of using a stainless rod...do you think that if i burnt a 3.2mm stainless rod in to the mild steel then ground it flush the path of the weld would have enough stainless in it to stay stainless after a bit of patina was added?

in my head if i 'flood' a 3.2mm rod in hot so i get it in deep then it should force enough stainless in and dilute too much, but my mettalurgy isnt the best so not sure if i would just get diluted stainless runs

 

[Welderpaul]

Sounds like you need to, as they say, make actions speak louder than words.

You can talk about it for ever but the best way is to try/practice?

 

[brokenbiker]

Sounds like you need to, as they say, make actions speak louder than words.

You can talk about it for ever but the best way is to try/practice?

just mulling ideas over for tonight as i cant be bothered to get the welders out again now

 

[Richard.]

@Richard. on the thery of using a stainless rod...do you think that if i burnt a 3.2mm stainless rod in to the mild steel then ground it flush the path of the weld would have enough stainless in it to stay stainless after a bit of patina was added?

in my head if i 'flood' a 3.2mm rod in hot so i get it in deep then it should force enough stainless in and dilute too much, but my mettalurgy isnt the best so not sure if i would just get diluted stainless runs

I don't know because dilution would play a part in this making your stainless run less austenite.
Stacking another on top would increase your chances.
As Paul wisely said its time for some practicals.

 

[Richard.]

Grind a shallow groove all the way round where the boarder is to go.
Use this to put your first run in. This will aid to your weld been perfectly straight as it wets the edges of the grove and gives you something easy to follow.
I'd leave it as welded personally but if you want to grind it flush you will stand more chance of this weld remaining stainless as the groove will keep a lot of it in tact below surface height.
Also 309 as you suggest would be best as it's an over alloyed SS so even with dilution your chromium content may still be enough to remain austenite.

 

[Miggy89]

This is the goal...ive got similar but im not consistent enough to get the ripples evenly spaced and the same height...i will get there...i am usually quite good at getting into a rythym once i have got the technique down.

i suppose it would depend on how 'good' you want the end result to be in regards to looks on that piece, would it be an issue for it to have the highs a little inconsistant in spacing or does it need to be perfect?

 

[brokenbiker]

i suppose it would depend on how 'good' you want the end result to be in regards to looks on that piece, would it be an issue for it to have the highs a little inconsistant in spacing or does it need to be perfect?

not perfect but consistent...i havent had a play yet today as i had to repair an exhaust hanger this morning for a neighbour and now its raining...your picture is what im aiming for

 

[Miggy89]

can you get you forward backward motions in say 1second intervals to help with your consistancy?

 

[brokenbiker]

can you get you forward backward motions in say 1second intervals to help with your consistancy?

that is how i usually do things like this...either count seconds or say a word between each movement in my head...my other pracitces were just to see if i could get the right motion...now i can work towards consistency

 

[Freddy0309]

You may laugh but have you thought of using a metronome?

 

[Miggy89]

that is how i usually do things like this...either count seconds or say a word between each movement in my head...my other pracitces were just to see if i could get the right motion...now i can work towards consistency

crack on you get it