Could be. It looks like the dimes are to large to be tig.just my thoughts thoe.I'd say that was Tig like Tig. You wouldn't get stop starts on the corners like that from mig welding. Also it's far to clean with no evidence of wire brushing
Looking at the cleaning on the edge of the welding ,its aluminium, so definitely Tig.Could be. It looks like the dimes are to large to be tig.just my thoughts thoe.
No body. I thought it was.but after reading comments I see and hear what your saying.You would get larger dimes because it's a corner weld so rather he would of used a larger diameter filler wire, at least a 2.4 maybe even a 3.2 so each dab would spread out to get both edges.
Not withstanding The dime size, the big giveaway is the stop starts on the corners. They have all been melted into one which when you consider is three separate runs meeting (ending or beginning) at one point to merge them all without any visible lumps or bumps from either restarts or crater fills is only possible via Tig. With mig your adding filler wire as soon as you pull the trigger, but with Tig you obviously have the advantage of melting what is already there prior to adding any more.
Who told you it was mig?
I understand what you mean.for me it's what technique is used as it's done as a continuous weld.and if I can master it out of the principal.Wonder if there is any real point in Mig like Tig? Op isnt interested as its not something which can be mastered in 5 minutes, without using any gas or wire for practice, and as it produces weak joints, no practical use for anything other than decoration.
I understand what you mean.for me it's what technique is used as it's done as a continuous weld.and if I can master it out of the principal.
is it suitable for what it needs to do.
I do something similar (but not as neat) in appearance to MLT when I have a slight gap, or my set up is a tad too hot for the material as often happens on site.
I just stop n start on the trigger and quickly light up again- try to find one later -but its not as neat as what is being talked about.
You watch the penetration as you weld, if we could judge it by looking at the finished bead, we would not need ultra sound and X rays would we.
Aparrently, the bloke that does it, welds chassis for sandrail buggies, so in theory, the pen and soundness of the welds is proved if its true.
So, I propose you guys reproduce the welds with a MIG of your choice, then belt em. cut and etch em, and post your efforts with pictures.
One day some blokes on here say appearance = a good weld, few posts later appearance counts for nowt.
Aherm, still no photographs BB?
In fact, where have you gone?.....
Appearance counts for little in a Mig weld, and in almost all cases a pretty looking Mig weld wont be as strong as a run laid in nice and hot, which doesnt look anywhere near as nice.
pretty looking Mig weld wont be as strong as a run laid in nice and hot, which doesnt look anywhere near as nice.
Gmaw is a different animal when appearance is concerned. It's great at telling lies. Many a lovely looking mag run has been put down and many suffer with fusion issues. GTAW and MMA are much more truth telling processes. More often than not if it looks good there is a sporting chance you've put in a sound weld.One day some blokes on here say appearance = a good weld, few posts later appearance counts for nowt.
I know what your trying to say Chris but your terminology is all over the place.I think it would be relatively easy to get a Tig type look with Mig that had wire feed pulse, but am certain the weld wouldnt be as strong as running a bead without pulse, or indeed any other way of getting MLT look. In common with all welding processes Mig is all about heat, and the MLT look is achieved either by interrupting the heat input (wire feed pulse), or manipulating torch to get the same effect. Interruption of the heat input, can cause all sorts of problems, not least of which is reduced weld strength.
I know what your trying to say Chris but your terminology is all over the place.
Your not interrupting heat input by pulsing your reducing it.
And lower heat input doesn't reduce a welds strength it actually increases it.
A lot of machines have double pulses on current. It's a widely used feature and produces very sound welds when set up properly.