But isn't this esr shared, so the most you have in parallel the better?
- Thread starter Peter Millerchip
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In this thread there is a long discussion about single vs. multiple capacitors in parallel:
180 capacitor swapout
just replaced the capacitor bank in my old Automig, the cheapest option was good old eBay - unfortunately the closest quality ones I could find were half the value- so I bought 10! Good job the case has plenty of room! It's made a massive difference to the way the machine runs!
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Seadog
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Yes, but you can't completely discount individual ESR. Of course the current flowing per capacitor will be reduced but there will still be some heating due to internal resistance, so the lower the better for me.
cri8tor
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Thank you for the welcome and I totally agree about the consequences of adding capacitors to this type of welder. I've added a full bridge rectifier and a separate transformer for the wire feed motor. Videos of my work may be viewed on YouTube under "cri8tor," also with the same profile picture. I like the modification of adding the relays to allow a hot gun only when the trigger is pulled and a separate wire feed, power control. The welder's factory components along with the little circuit board leave a lot to be desired. Would like to keep this thread going and will mention it in my next video. Cheers
cri8tor
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I agree, but that gun always being hot can be a real pain in the ass. I've added a full bridge rectifier and an additional transformer for the wire feed motor in an effort to steady out the voltage, but still might add one capacitor and a choke for just a little more stability. Posted some videos of my mods on YouTube under the name "cri8tor" along with the same profile picture. All feedback is appreciate. Cheers
Laird Scooby
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Holy thread resurrection Batman!
Long time lurker and (i think) first time poster, thought i'd stick my head above the parapet!
I've read through this thread a few times now but can't seem to find any reference to a circuit diagram for the Switzer 130 or a separate mod to make the torch non-live. Have i missed something or was a solution for those not found?
I ask because i bought what appears to be the same welder a few months back, having used an arc welder for a long time felt i could deal with the permanently live torch but to be honest it's a nuisance, especially in confined areas. I have a bigger repair job coming up on one of my cars (after paying to have it done "professionally" i found the so-called welder/MoT-tester had left the floorpan hanging in the breeze and not connected it to the sill! Hence needing to do it myself now) and a live torch will be a disadvantage for that.
Also any clues on what happened to the OP? He seemed to disappear - i hope he didn't succumb to his health problems!
Long time lurker and (i think) first time poster, thought i'd stick my head above the parapet!
I've read through this thread a few times now but can't seem to find any reference to a circuit diagram for the Switzer 130 or a separate mod to make the torch non-live. Have i missed something or was a solution for those not found?
I ask because i bought what appears to be the same welder a few months back, having used an arc welder for a long time felt i could deal with the permanently live torch but to be honest it's a nuisance, especially in confined areas. I have a bigger repair job coming up on one of my cars (after paying to have it done "professionally" i found the so-called welder/MoT-tester had left the floorpan hanging in the breeze and not connected it to the sill! Hence needing to do it myself now) and a live torch will be a disadvantage for that.
Also any clues on what happened to the OP? He seemed to disappear - i hope he didn't succumb to his health problems!
KemppiFrog
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Last here in Dec '18. Hope he is OKHoly thread resurrection Batman!
Long time lurker and (i think) first time poster, thought i'd stick my head above the parapet!
I've read through this thread a few times now but can't seem to find any reference to a circuit diagram for the Switzer 130 or a separate mod to make the torch non-live. Have i missed something or was a solution for those not found?
I ask because i bought what appears to be the same welder a few months back, having used an arc welder for a long time felt i could deal with the permanently live torch but to be honest it's a nuisance, especially in confined areas. I have a bigger repair job coming up on one of my cars (after paying to have it done "professionally" i found the so-called welder/MoT-tester had left the floorpan hanging in the breeze and not connected it to the sill! Hence needing to do it myself now) and a live torch will be a disadvantage for that.
Also any clues on what happened to the OP? He seemed to disappear - i hope he didn't succumb to his health problems!
It's just not worth bothering with this task (trying to incorporate a relay to make the torch non-live), especially for car body work, as it's a generic £90 AC Chinese flux core job with a 50 Amp minimum.Holy thread resurrection Batman!
Long time lurker and (i think) first time poster, thought i'd stick my head above the parapet!
I've read through this thread a few times now but can't seem to find any reference to a circuit diagram for the Switzer 130 or a separate mod to make the torch non-live. Have i missed something or was a solution for those not found?
I ask because i bought what appears to be the same welder a few months back, having used an arc welder for a long time felt i could deal with the permanently live torch but to be honest it's a nuisance, especially in confined areas. I have a bigger repair job coming up on one of my cars (after paying to have it done "professionally" i found the so-called welder/MoT-tester had left the floorpan hanging in the breeze and not connected it to the sill! Hence needing to do it myself now) and a live torch will be a disadvantage for that.
Also any clues on what happened to the OP? He seemed to disappear - i hope he didn't succumb to his health problems!
I had one in the other month, absolute junk. It is no wonder that folk buy them and decide they can't get the hang of welding!
If you're on a low budget, sell it off on Marketplace and buy a used Clarke Pro90.
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The OP of this thread used a 13A plug-in 12v DC power supply to provide an always-on auxiliary power supply for the welder. The output was fed to the coil of a relay when switched by the torch trigger. Closure of the relay contacts passed AC mains to the primary of the welding transformer. This solved the "live torch" problem.
Even without a circuit diagram, this mod is fairly straightforward. The question is - is it worth doing? This is a gasless MIG welder, with an AC output, no inductor, and a minimum power setting that is double what you would need for your intended car bodywork application. I would suggest you try running beads and welding simple joints on sheet metal of similar thickness ( 1mm, 0.9 mm ? ) to check if the welder is at all usable, even with clean non-rusty metal on a workbench.
Even without a circuit diagram, this mod is fairly straightforward. The question is - is it worth doing? This is a gasless MIG welder, with an AC output, no inductor, and a minimum power setting that is double what you would need for your intended car bodywork application. I would suggest you try running beads and welding simple joints on sheet metal of similar thickness ( 1mm, 0.9 mm ? ) to check if the welder is at all usable, even with clean non-rusty metal on a workbench.
