.... 
well, never mind.
I always found just holding and squeezing the centre of the drivebelt together with my left hand let me get the chuck off.Hi all
Question: We hear everywhere that on the ML7 you must not use the backgear to block the spindle so that you can take down the chuck.
I totally agree with that, it seems to be the only way to get the thing broken, except maybe
But then how do you block the spindle when the chuck is a little tighter?
On my machine everything is as it has been for ages, I reckon that sits tight ....
Thanks in advance,
good night
Carsten
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Looks like I have been doing it wrong for 30yrs.
I should have read the manual. Although I very rarely change chuck though. Never too old to learn.
The back gear has half a tooth missing from previous owner(s), mind you so have I....... and few others.
My motor is the open frame single phase, oiled bearings, not even the original, but salvaged from a scrapped pillar drill. As you have, quite rightly been informed, your motor isn't at risk from swarf entering the motor (as you no doubt had realised). However I don't think you'll want oily swarf sticking to the grill or the impeller? The ML7 motor is in a bad position. Most of my motors are 3 phase industrial running off invertors. My Rapidor saw has a 25yr old choke/capacitor invertor and the rest are Chinese VF.Well, that's all right then. Thank you very much.
But thank you also to the other forum members for their tips on this, I had not shown this motor in detail before and the danger seems to be real.
Carsten
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Paint's been on the shelf for 10yrs, genuine Myford.
Your lathe is a very good example of a pristine machine....in fact it may have shamed me into painting mine.
Do it if you feel like it! 
The original genuine chip tray, has the change gears over the edge. Oil drips on floor (design feature?). Picture1Thanks
After my attempts so far, I realise that proper adjustment against torsion in the bed of the Myford probably only works with raising blocks similar to the originals.
This video
explains it quite clearly and my shim method doesn't get me anywhere.
In addition, when I altered the change gears, I found that I can no longer reach the lower of the two screws/nuts of the gearchange quadrant properly since the machine has been standing on the large chip tray.
I'm sure someone has already built such feet themselves ... I'd be interested to know the dimensions.
Many thanks in advance and a fantastic holiday to everyone
Carsten
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- That's exactly what they in the know said will happen - but not that bad: on evilbay-uk available, not even prohibitly expensive ...
It's been like that for at least 30yrs...not in any rush.
Initially.....Never checked it...just used it to make parts for electric motors to make money. It came bolted to the tray and cabinet. Straight into use once repaired. I doesn't need to be accurately aligned to make parts. Most of the time you turn long bars between centres so no issue if the tailstock is true. It's medium length stuff that the tapers show up in and these were acceptable for most of the jobs I did. It was only later, 10yrs or so on that I decided to true it up. Most of that was bearing scraping. And yes shimming.Yes, this was clearly an optional extra for high maintenance wooden floors. The oil supply came automatically from the machine, you just had to distribute the oil and work it into the wood.
English motorbikes also came with a very similar feature, but I don't remember which floors it was for? Me thinks it was almost universal ...
BTW: Your change wheel lid seems to have hinges - is it a Super_7?
Less than ideal imho, but you protected it already, right? I see the nesessity. What are the cables for?
Oh, bad
... Or you show us how to repair that gear .... How?
And your setup was perfect from the getgo? Or did you shim under the right side feet?
Carsten
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Sorry forgot...not a super7 it's retrofitted gearbox on my ML7/Yes, this was clearly an optional extra for high maintenance wooden floors. The oil supply came automatically from the machine, you just had to distribute the oil and work it into the wood.
English motorbikes also came with a very similar feature, but I don't remember which floors it was for? Me thinks it was almost universal ...
BTW: Your change wheel lid seems to have hinges - is it a Super_7?
Less than ideal imho, but you protected it already, right? I see the nesessity. What are the cables for?
Oh, bad
... Or you show us how to repair that gear .... How?
And your setup was perfect from the getgo? Or did you shim under the right side feet?
Carsten
--
A really stuck chuck can be removed by clamping a 1/2” drive hex key socket in the chuck and using an impact driver. I removed a chuck off an abandoned ML7 that had been left outside using this method.Hi all
Question: We hear everywhere that on the ML7 you must not use the backgear to block the spindle so that you can take down the chuck.
I totally agree with that, it seems to be the only way to get the thing broken, except maybe
But then how do you block the spindle when the chuck is a little tighter?
On my machine everything is as it has been for ages, I reckon that sits tight ....
Thanks in advance,
good night
Carsten
--
Looks just like mine was, Only much better. (leadscrew and motor, good slides?)
It had one owner from new, who had been long deceased and lathe left in damp shed by relatives. It came up really well, only needed a s/h topslide lead screw and dial as original had been snapped off, and new capacitor in the motor.
There's something magical about restoring equipment, Being able to look beyond paintwork (shiny,shiny) helps. I'd prefer to buy a secondhand car that was up on ramps to one on a revolving table in a showroom.
I agree with you on the coat of paint =restoration to some ,the vintage tractor scene is full of thatInitially.....Never checked it...just used it to make parts for electric motors to make money. It came bolted to the tray and cabinet. Straight into use once repaired. I doesn't need to be accurately aligned to make parts. Most of the time you turn long bars between centres so no issue if the tailstock is true. It's medium length stuff that the tapers show up in and these were acceptable for most of the jobs I did. It was only later, 10yrs or so on that I decided to true it up. Most of that was bearing scraping. And yes shimming.
The Colchester on the other hand was worth the effort, but that only needed the headstock releasing/retightening and came within 0.0005" over 10". Good enough for me.
If you read up, you'll find that the skill of the turner is greatly prevalent. Think of ice sculptures with chainsaws. As an apprentice test we had to make (rectangular) stuff with saws and files to precision fits. Draw filing isn't a term one hears much nowadays. Our machine shop had a forge with blacksmith and striker. That used to fascinate me. The term 'horses for courses', or 'the right tool to do the job' springs to mind.
Some people restore vintage just to look at. On 'This Old Tony' channel he decides after many years to do a bed alignment on his Colchester.I made a new cross-slide acme screw for it as the middle section was worn and gave some 'play', but nothing like some of the worn lathes I've seen on Youtube. Again....it's down to the user.
Had to 'g' clamp the cross and use the top-slide at 90deg to make it. Used my homemade toolpost drill/grinder with a 1/8" endmill to make the long keyway. Took pulley off and used my drill. I even painted it, not something I normally do
Smallest lathe I've used is a watch/clock one. Turning 1mm shafts down to repair works clocks. Had good eysight then, as was able to repair watches without a lupe.
View attachment 324910 View attachment 324911
Yes did my JD2040 up then ripped the doors off and broke windows working between trees.
