Myford ML7

[Turbo]

Hello everyone,

I'm at a loss: with the original four-post tool holder and a 12x12 cut-off steel holder, I'm about 5mm over center height!

View attachment 322595

I do not understand this. What is wrong?

View attachment 322596

As I showed a few days ago, when the turning steels from the pile got smaller, only one with a 5.7mm shank (IIRC) reached about the centerline without overshooting.

But that can't be the solution....

At the very beginning of this machine on this forum, user @Agroshield wrote something about recognizing different features of different versions/models in the pictures - What about that?

Any idea?


Carsten

--

I bought a 4 way toolpost supposedly for a ML7 & I have exactly the same issue as you - it sits too high! I have stuck with the original single tool holder for now but I plan on using the lathe to remove enough metal so that the carbide tooling I have will sit low enough.

 

[northwest]

At the moment I am under the impression that I first need to precisely align the machine on its new solid base with shims using a machine spirit level before I then go to the moving parts and then check their precision using the method you described. No?

Not really, you cannot fit a lathe to a ship using a level, not really. But plenty of ships have lathes

tricks to get over the limitations of the tiny 19/32" spindle opening?

Big Biore Headstock Conversion: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174844832781?hash=item28b5906c0d:g:cTMAAOSwR5lgTO02
There are still some of the essential bits floating about so you can do your own: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143310574692?hash=item215df9d464:g:-HkAAOSw1fZdFL22
Ithink Myford/RDG call it the "connoisseur" model.

 

[brightspark]

the lathe does not need setting up precisely as long as its on solid ground and fairly level .bed adjustment is on the the lathes riser blocks and can be adjusted by using a test bar in the machine

 

[Rannsachair]

Had a look at the link at the time, but because of the many scripts requested on the page, which I could not allow, I did not get any real info.

Just looked again and allowed a few more scripts, now I also see measurements - that helps enormously.

Two difficulties:
- central bore 10mm, not 7/16" (11.2mm) - drill out, still works?
- Supplier in UK - I can see that when it comes to old, irretrievable things, but new parts I try to find on the continent.

Have entered this designation 250-000 into the German eBay: There also comes a bunch of stuff, mostly from China.

THIS is supposedly in Germany ... (don't worry about a bit of German, in the offer besides English the language is mostly Gibberish for us as well).

What about that stuff from India made explicitly for the Myfords?

Carsten

--

Arc supply a Myford mounting too that makes fitting easy:

I have read a lot of complaints about Indian made QC toolposts, I would be wary.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

the lathe chuck on the myford will be a 6 inch one so the chuck jaws should clear the bed

the 4 jaw on the myford is 6 inch turn the jaws round and it will grip a bigger diameter workpiece

Then I don't have a Myford four-jaw chuck, mine I think is much, much smaller, seems to be from Roto and doesn't hold the tool very well either:

This very method seems to have been tried on this tool holder as well - not exactly with overwhelming success (at least dealing with it made me realise that I had always interpreted the inserts of this holder the wrong way ).

My ML7 came with a selection of HSS tooling & after getting quickly fed up of trying to sharpen them only for them to be blunted quite quickly I took the plunge & ordered a full set of carbide insert tooling from Banggood, as recommended by @doubleboost on his youtube channel.

@doubleboost -
John's videos are really a tremendous help, not only with the main subject matter, but also with the many normal small actions of a practitioner.

One piece of advice that he does not explicitly mention in the video, but which I saw, I immediately implemented and built a small T-tray on which to prepare tools, but above all with which to protect the ways of the machine:

A well-seasoned piece of old English oak seemed very appropriate.
The forward overhang is not critical, as the piece on the underside immediately cants when accidentally tilted, thus preventing a teetering effect.

I then treated all surfaces generously with Ballistol oil. You wouldn't believe what a thirsty wood this English oak can be ...

If I remember correctly, one suggestion for a solution against the centre line problem was to turn down the too high four-post tool holder at the bottom - this does not work, because this height is needed by the locking pin for the eight-position hook washer:

Carsten

--

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Big Biore Headstock Conversion:

There are still some of the essential bits floating about so you can do your own: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143310574692?hash=item215df9d464:g:-HkAAOSw1fZdFL22

Does that really mean that that's all I need for the conversion? It can't be that simple (and cheap), can it?

I have read a lot of complaints about Indian made QC toolposts, I would be wary.

Thanks, wilco!

(if you order them from the links on his youtube review you will be sure you get the same quality ones plus he gets a small commission without costing you anything extra)
I think I ordered the 12mm ones, I'll have to check. The items no longer appear in my Banggood account so I can't post the links to what I actually bought.
The whole lot including enough spare inserts to last me years cost around £70.
They have been a revelation, a suitable tool for most occasions & when a tip gets blunt a few seconds changes it instead of a few minutes sharpening a HSS tool for the umpteenth time!

I will order in a way if possible that @doubleboost gets his little kickback, no question.
The holder in link #1 seems to be discontinued, will see which one is still available and fits me ....

... but before ordering the tools, I will ....

Arc supply a Myford mounting too that makes fitting easy:

... see and calculate how huge the punishment will be ordering at Arc supply - anyone who I can help with placing an order there?

the lathe does not need setting up precisely as long as its on solid ground and fairly level .bed adjustment is on the the lathes riser blocks and can be adjusted by using a test bar in the machine

Next thing as soon as I can start machining is to properly proceed the test-bar-method to see where I am with this machine ...



Carsten

--

 

[prepman]

Does that really mean that that's all I need for the conversion? It can't be that simple (and cheap), can it?




Thanks, wilco!




I will order in a way if possible that @doubleboost gets his little kickback, no question.
The holder in link #1 seems to be discontinued, will see which one is still available and fits me ....

... but before ordering the tools, I will ....



... see and calculate how huge the punishment will be ordering at Arc supply - anyone who I can help with placing an order there?




Next thing as soon as I can start machining is to properly proceed the test-bar-method to see where I am with this machine ...



Carsten

--

That's exactly right. Your earlier attempt with bar would give a taper due to spring. It should be tapering towards the headstock? The finish you had was all chatter. So you have an issue there with tool selection and setup. To get a true test on my Colchester I used a fine point tool in reverse angle, the point trailing not leading. This was to stop it digging in on the last skim which was the 'spring' cut.

That's the finish that you are after to make any sense of the test. This was to create the test bar. It then is installed in the chuck without tail stock. Skimmed and checked and then between centres using the peg as a 'dog' against the lathe jaws to check for tailstock alignment. Every time it is used it has to be skimmed.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

@25.4_mechanic As promised, a pic of my lathe 'feet'. Made from length(s) of threaded bar welded to a steel plate. Fully adjustable - what looks like a rubber washer beneath the washer is just a shadow, there's a nut under the washer for height changing/locking off.

Not the best view, but I'm sure you get the idea - serves me well enough.

I'd say your's are the same as mine looking at the two pics together, although slightly different shape [maybe a previous owner of mine modded it?

Have you, by some strange coincidence, found out what the measurement of the protruding part of the feet of your Myford base unit is?
Thank you very much in advance.

That's exactly right. Your earlier attempt with bar would give a taper due to spring. It should be tapering towards the headstock? The finish you had was all chatter. So you have an issue there with tool selection and setup. To get a true test on my Colchester I used a fine point tool in reverse angle, the point trailing not leading. This was to stop it digging in on the last skim which was the 'spring' cut.

That's the finish that you are after to make any sense of the test. This was to create the test bar. It then is installed in the chuck without tail stock. Skimmed and checked and then between centres using the peg as a 'dog' against the lathe jaws to check for tailstock alignment. Every time it is used it has to be skimmed.

The loose end wobbles, the centrifugal force brings it closer to the cutter, therefore at the open end more material is cut off, the bar gets thinner there, cuts less towards the chuck so the bar stays thicker there.

Yes, wrong tools because with the lathe came an assortment that doesn't really fit this machine - I have difficulty to get the right height.
Therefor I'm waiting for the QCTP and fitting cutters to arrive. As soon as they are with me I'll try again.

I think I understand what I saw in your video (thanks für that link with explanation), but I didn't get why you're going to such length with that fat bar???

Thank you anyway

Carsten

--

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Have you, by some strange coincidence, found out what the measurement of the protruding part of the feet of your Myford base unit is?
Thank you very much in advance.

I don't, but I'll measure it for you when I'm next out in the cave. [not going out again today, it's dark and freezing now ]

 

[prepman]

Have you, by some strange coincidence, found out what the measurement of the protruding part of the feet of your Myford base unit is?
Thank you very much in advance.




The loose end wobbles, the centrifugal force brings it closer to the cutter, therefore at the open end more material is cut off, the bar gets thinner there, cuts less towards the chuck so the bar stays thicker there.

Yes, wrong tools because with the lathe came an assortment that doesn't really fit this machine - I have difficulty to get the right height.
Therefor I'm waiting for the QCTP and fitting cutters to arrive. As soon as they are with me I'll try again.

I think I understand what I saw in your video (thanks für that link with explanation), but I didn't get why you're going to such length with that fat bar???

Thank you anyway

Carsten

--

The loose end wobbles? The free end is pushed away with pressure of the tool and as you get to the chuck the resistance is greater so more is taken off. So it should taper towards the chuck. If it's the other way round then either the bar is too small a diameter or you have a misalignment. That video is on a Colchester so you need to scale it down. Sorry that the video is so poor, it doesn't get across what I was trying to explain. It assumes that the viewer is familiar with turning and the techniques required.
There are better videos out there that go into detail, but tie themselves in knots by making it too complicated.
The greater the bar diameter the less flexing at the free end.

1) The aim of the test is to machine a piece of bar without using the tailstock to steady the free end.

2) To expediate this the middle section is reduced in diameter so that only both ends of bar are being machined. This is done using the tailstock, because the deep cuts would otherwise flex the bar and cause chatter and could also be hazardous .
So each end is a fine cut at a slow feed-rate and quickly hand fed over the centre section. You would never do this under normal circumstances with normal cutting depths.
3) If the two diameters are not the same then the tool is not running parallel to the axis of headstock.
4) This is due to the axis being at angle to the bed in the horizontal or the vertical plane. Determining which is where it gets involved. Clock gauges....etc
5) Bar is then run between centres, usually using a dog (I don't have one) and a face plate. This is where my bar with a drive pin saves needing them. Which was the main point of the video, Again it is skimmed up and this time it is the alignment of the tailstock is determined for vertical and horizontal alignment. Horizontal is easy as it is adjustable. Vertical is tricky as there is no adjustment.

On my ML7 I scraped the bearings using a bearing scraper and engineers 'blue' to align the axis. A slow process. Can't remember if I had to lower the tailstock by removing metal as it was 30yrs ago.

One last point is....do you need to do any of this? I only did it because I was getting terrible tapers on an extemely worn lathe, which I couldn't live with. It's is possible to compensate for inaccuracies.
You could just use it and improve your skills and then determine if you have an issue?
I needed it to repair equipment and it worked.
As an apprentice 50+ yrs ago I was taught the 3 jaw chuck was always considered as a roughing chuck the 4 jaw was the precision one. When the work piece is clamped and turned it doesn't matter if it runs true. It's the job of lathe to do that. The part that remains in the chuck isn't part of the job unless it's 'clocked' in.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@25.4_mechanic As promised, measurements [as close as I can get due to access ] are:

hole diameter - 12mm
leg width -42.5mm
leg depth - 13mm

Iirc, the protruding bits are the ends of a solid bar which runs front > back of the stand. I'm not sure if this is standard Myford or not?

Hope this helps.

 

[prepman]

Have you, by some strange coincidence, found out what the measurement of the protruding part of the feet of your Myford base unit is?
Thank you very much in advance.




The loose end wobbles, the centrifugal force brings it closer to the cutter, therefore at the open end more material is cut off, the bar gets thinner there, cuts less towards the chuck so the bar stays thicker there.

Yes, wrong tools because with the lathe came an assortment that doesn't really fit this machine - I have difficulty to get the right height.
Therefor I'm waiting for the QCTP and fitting cutters to arrive. As soon as they are with me I'll try again.

I think I understand what I saw in your video (thanks für that link with explanation), but I didn't get why you're going to such length with that fat bar???

Thank you anyway

Carsten

--

Out of curiosity.....I had a look at my Myford to check tool heights etc. I must have ground the holder to 7mm (undersize) to get height and then shimmed it up 1-2mm, a good few years back. Don't think I ever had a tool that was the correct size, except hss. They were cripplingly expensive way back. China changed all that. Just used what was given or already had from job lots. Total height is ~ 90mm - ML7" from bed to centre. I just put the holder in the vice to the depth I want and grind down to the jaws (not into the jaws), with a mini grinder. As longs as it flat and relatively parallel any small descrepencies have minimal effectl. Mustn't rock. (or roll) Turning the holder down in the lathe, implies that you already have an indexed tool that's correct? Chicken and egg springs to mind, as hss might struggle..

 

[25.4_mechanic]

@prepman - First of all, thank you very much for taking the trouble to try to help me. Hopefully I won't try your patience too much.

The loose end wobbles? The free end is pushed away with pressure of the tool and as you get to the chuck the resistance is greater so more is taken off. So it should taper towards the chuck. If it's the other way round then either the bar is too small a diameter or you have a misalignment.

It's true, I can't just improvise language, I have to use the correct terminology, sorry.
This was just an ineffectual attempt to explain to me the fact that in my previous attempts - if there was any result at all - the rod always tapers towards the free end.

In the meantime, I have received some material, so that I can take the steps to more certainty (I will present the new stuff in the thread today-i-acquired first).

Your steps 1) to 5) are next, now that I can cut a little better and measure properly in the first place.

And right: my former 20mm rod is too thin to be able to say something meaningful about the machine with it. In the meantime, I got a piece of 30mm round material and I'm trying to get even sturdier.

One last point is....do you need to do any of this? I only did it because I was getting terrible tapers on an extemely worn lathe, which I couldn't live with. It's is possible to compensate for inaccuracies.
You could just use it and improve your skills and then determine if you have an issue?

It will probably actually be a mixture of that:
- I strive to get to the edge of the capabilities of this machine to precision.
- Along the way, I will gain experience and learn - damage is also to be expected ... hopefully on the cheaper side of the scale.
- And eventually, there will be further purchases to drive the project forward again - @slim_boy_fat already said it.

Mustn't rock. (or roll)

Turning the holder down in the lathe, implies that you already have an indexed tool that's correct?

That wasn't me.
That was like this in the mixed pile I got with the machine. It was merely responding to @Lewis_RX8 that I understood his idea and showing my four jaw chuck, which unfortunately is not a Myford and way too small for such jobs.

But yes, I made progress. Will make some pictures.

As promised, measurements [as close as I can get due to access ] are:

hole diameter - 12mm
leg width -42.5mm
leg depth - 13mm

Iirc, the protruding bits are the ends of a solid bar which runs front > back of the stand. I'm not sure if this is standard Myford or not?

Hope this helps.

I thank you very much, was certainly not so easy to get there ...

So, my base cabinet feet - which I also think are flat irons coming from the back to the front - are much weaker than yours.

leg width 42.5mm -> only 41mm not that big of a deal, but
leg depth 13mm -> only 8mm that's substantially weaker ... for export


Thanks all

Carsten

--

 

[prepman]

@prepman - First of all, thank you very much for taking the trouble to try to help me. Hopefully I won't try your patience too much.



It's true, I can't just improvise language, I have to use the correct terminology, sorry.
This was just an ineffectual attempt to explain to me the fact that in my previous attempts - if there was any result at all - the rod always tapers towards the free end.

In the meantime, I have received some material, so that I can take the steps to more certainty (I will present the new stuff in the thread today-i-acquired first).

Your steps 1) to 5) are next, now that I can cut a little better and measure properly in the first place.

And right: my former 20mm rod is too thin to be able to say something meaningful about the machine with it. In the meantime, I got a piece of 30mm round material and I'm trying to get even sturdier.




It will probably actually be a mixture of that:
- I strive to get to the edge of the capabilities of this machine to precision.
- Along the way, I will gain experience and learn - damage is also to be expected ... hopefully on the cheaper side of the scale.
- And eventually, there will be further purchases to drive the project forward again - @slim_boy_fat already said it.





That wasn't me.
That was like this in the mixed pile I got with the machine. It was merely responding to @Lewis_RX8 that I understood his idea and showing my four jaw chuck, which unfortunately is not a Myford and way too small for such jobs.

But yes, I made progress. Will make some pictures.




I thank you very much, was certainly not so easy to get there ...

So, my base cabinet feet - which I also think are flat irons coming from the back to the front - are much weaker than yours.

leg width 42.5mm -> only 41mm not that big of a deal, but
leg depth 13mm -> only 8mm that's substantially weaker ... for export


Thanks all

Carsten

--

You're doing a great job, but I think you are unnecessarily anxious. My machine was a wreck when I bought it. It's last job was to mix paint.
Everything was kaput (see my Deutch is almost as good as your excellent English ), motor burnt out, starter U/S, all bushes worn out, no leadscrew, cross-slide front edge wornout. Using handlewheels was like gripping coarse carborundum. But the bed had been re-ground and was good. Making small parts for electric motors, the accuracy over length didn't matter. However when I started turning shafts and wanted to make long threads the mis-alignment and lack of a leadscrew was too much.
So scrap leadscrew fitted (not too badly worn), new 3 jaw chuck and headstock made true. After a number of years, changing the change gears got tedious, so I fitted a(n) (expensive) gearbox. Some people had ditched mechanical gearboxes and installed stepper motors which does away with the metric thread issues, as the feedrate is infinitely variable. The lathe is still free standing on the cabinet.
None of my machines are bolted down, except the shaper and floor mounted pedestal drill. The shaper is bolted and grouted, otherwise it would 'Conga' it's way out of the workshop. Bolting down can induce distortion if not carefully done.
The Colchster manual says not to do. Shim only. Solid floors throughout.

BTW The reason I use DCMT07 carbides are because 16yrs ago they were the only ones I could buy cheaply on eBay. At that time I think the UK ones were ~£10 each? I don't think Bangood and Amazon existed then? Could be wrong...often am. The indexable tool coding is a bit daunting, but there's plenty of info' on the web. In general I've not had too many issues with Chinese carbides. The holders I certainly have.

Keep up the good work and enjoy making stuff.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

enjoy making stuff.

At the moment I'm doing a few things at once and have to be careful not to get bogged down.
I also want to keep reporting here and not fall too far behind.

I had already mentioned that the only time I dealt with the rotating tip, it promptly wouldn't rotate. I had to take care of that, either repair it or procure it, as it was necessary for the next step: to make a test rod.

It came in handy that the sealing disc had not done so for some time.

The front bearing was stiff as a rock, the rear one could still be turned. Clamped lightly in the three-jaw chuck, the slippery thing could first be freed from the completely resinous grease.

I don't know if it is generally known that you can also treat parts to be cleaned in an ultrasonic unit in liquids that you don't want to have in the ultrasonic bath, e.g. because they are too expensive, too dangerous or too disgusting.
The sound waves propagate into the interior of a container filled with liquid if the wall thickness is not too great.

I use these test tubes for this purpose. I bought a box of 100 of them maybe 10 years ago and find new uses for them almost every week - but since I haven't had to throw any of them away yet, I still get by just fine.

There are bigger and smaller ones, mine have a scale up to 80ml.
So far, I haven't found any liquid that could harm them, and they are autoclavable, so they can be sterilised in a medical environment with steam or other heat. Even if I deform them under heat or an aggressive liquid, they always return to their original shape.
And they are cheap where you can get laboratory supplies.

After roughly removing the old grease from the rotating tip, I put it into one of my test tubes and filled it up with "boiling-limit-petrol".

Also "boiling-point-petrol" is a very clean petrol and also known as cleaning or wound petrol (although it is never used to clean wounds) - looking for an equivalent in English, I am probably closest with "White Spirit Type 3" -
- very low flash point, highly solvent, aroma-free, evaporates without residue.

You can buy it expensively in pharmacies or very cheaply in artists' supplies for painters and sculptors.

This is then placed in the ultrasonic bath until it gets really hot - about 50°-65°C, what the ultrasound and the heating provide.
Since the tube is sealed, I have never had any ignitions.

In this way, the bearings are washed completely clean of everything that may have got into them over the decades.

When the bearings are clean and cooled down in your hand, you should not try to turn them, as they are now absolutely dry and without any lubrication.

The old impurities are disposed of together with the boiling petrol.

The tip with the bearings now goes into the tube again, only this time it is filled up with Ballistol or another very clean and thin oil. Put the whole thing back into the hot ultrasonic bath. When it comes out, you can turn the bearings without worrying and you will know if the bearings are still good - I was lucky.

Then put fresh grease on everything inside again, put it in the housing, tap the "sealing" washer into it and work with it - some grease will probably always come out in the future, but I've gained a few years ....

.... Maybe it's like with English motorbikes: if I don't see any coming out, there probably isn't any left in it ...


Have a nice evening all

Carsten

--

 

[25.4_mechanic]

As any of you who have ever had a lathe of course know, a chip-oil pan alone under the machine doesn't help much, the stuff flies around.

Together with the pan, I had wisely had a 400x800mm piece of sheet metal cut for the rear wall (I had bought a whole sheet), but I wanted to wait and see where the mess would fly to.

Yesterday we finalised that, but moveable!

I had imagined it way too complicated with a Z-bent sheet metal strip etc.
Instead we just took another 2mm sheet as a spacer and then the actual sheet to stick over the edge on top.
Then connected everything with huge spot welding pliers.

Fits and works.

A bit on the heavy side thou ...

Have a wonderful rest of the weekend

Carsten

--

 

[prepman]

As any of you who have ever had a lathe of course know, a chip-oil pan alone under the machine doesn't help much, the stuff flies around.

Together with the pan, I had wisely had a 400x800mm piece of sheet metal cut for the rear wall (I had bought a whole sheet), but I wanted to wait and see where the mess would fly to.

View attachment 323900

Yesterday we finalised that, but moveable!

I had imagined it way too complicated with a Z-bent sheet metal strip etc.
Instead we just took another 2mm sheet as a spacer and then the actual sheet to stick over the edge on top.
Then connected everything with huge spot welding pliers.

View attachment 323901

View attachment 323902

Fits and works.

View attachment 323903

A bit on the heavy side thou ...

Have a wonderful rest of the weekend

Carsten

--

Most of it into the motor.

 

[Turbo]

Nice job on the guard but I would suggest you make up a guard for the motor. When using the lathe it tends to fire some swarf directly at the motor plus the oil from the spindle bearings. It all gets quite messy & if you are running an original non sealed motor the crap can get into the motor windings!

Its a really daft place to put the motor, don't know what Myford was thinking.

 

[prepman]

As any of you who have ever had a lathe of course know, a chip-oil pan alone under the machine doesn't help much, the stuff flies around.

Together with the pan, I had wisely had a 400x800mm piece of sheet metal cut for the rear wall (I had bought a whole sheet), but I wanted to wait and see where the mess would fly to.

View attachment 323900

Yesterday we finalised that, but moveable!

I had imagined it way too complicated with a Z-bent sheet metal strip etc.
Instead we just took another 2mm sheet as a spacer and then the actual sheet to stick over the edge on top.
Then connected everything with huge spot welding pliers.

View attachment 323901

View attachment 323902

Fits and works.

View attachment 323903

A bit on the heavy side thou ...

Have a wonderful rest of the weekend

Carsten

--

In my earlier reply and pic, you might (or might not) have noticed that the feed-lever is not where it should be?
I turned it round (had to bend the bar) so that it was under the apron and not infront of it. Was sick of hot swarf (or suds) dropping onto the back of my hand, Another little ML7 design errror, IMHO. Although it's the same on the Colchester threading lever, but not the feed lever. You couldn't do it with the lever on yours, and I don't think you would want to anyway.
When threading, you tend to keep your hand on it in anticipation of disconnecting feed. Using a gloved hand is NOT an option. I saw on some lathe, somewhere, a transmission bar to take it to the far righthand side. Or was I imagining it?

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Most of it into the motor.

Nice job on the guard but I would suggest you make up a guard for the motor. When using the lathe it tends to fire some swarf directly at the motor plus the oil from the spindle bearings. It all gets quite messy & if you are running an original non sealed motor the crap can get into the motor windings!

Its a really daft place to put the motor, don't know what Myford was thinking.

I know what you mean and have looked at pictures of ML7 in original equipment for the domestic market: There, open parts of the original motor are in direct line of fire of the Myford's front bearing and the motor's junction box also seems to be on the same side.
Somewhat less convincing.

This is solved differently on my machine (and this seems to apply to machines for the German market in general, more on this later).

In direct alignment with the front bearing, this motor has its "fan housing bell", so the oil foam splashes from there will not be able to get into the motor.

The splash line of the discharge from the bearing runs in the protected area of the motor.

However, the distribution of the chips in the chip tray also shows that chips do fly in this direction.
So it depends on the way the motor is cooled ....

The previous picture shows the motor terminal box, which is sealed and faces away from the machine on the back - so there is no danger here.

In which direction does the fan blow?

Alas, the fan sucks on this side and I'll probably have to do something - but fortunately it's nowhere near as bad as with the original motors.

The type plate already gives a hint and this - unfortunately not so nicely photographed - type plate of a current offer, allows further conclusions:

This motor seems to be from an older ML7, because the power always goes up, not down - I'll get the serial number later, then I'll know more.

It seems that the German importer brought the machines into the country without motors and that makes perfect sense in some respects:

- At that time, the european domestic market had not yet been realised, and he would have had to pay tax on everything he imported.
- The English motors were probably not exactly outstanding either, while Germany itself had an extremely rich selection of its own electric motors to offer.
- Moreover, even then the supply of three-phase current to households was probably more widespread here than even today on the island, and these motors have two speeds in both directions!

So this seems to have been the standard delivery condition in Germany: With the current AEG three-phase motor, base cabinet with thinner and angular feet (in my case probably with the additional equipment "door"), without chip tray and without raising blocks (perhaps the importer offered two iron lumps instead if necessary?).

Was sick of hot swarf (or suds) dropping onto the back of my hand, Another little ML7 design errror, IMHO.

Good morning,
yes, I've been thinking about the chip throw forward, to the operator, i.e. me , for a while now, I've also already got a sheet of polystyrene clear material, but don't know yet how to find a "ride-on" solution .... more later ... I have to go ...

A fantastic day to all

Carsten

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