New motor and vfd?

[m_c]

The worst swarf is likely to do, is get stuck in the fan and make lots of noise, which is far more likely to annoy you and make you crack and do something about it, long before it does any damage to the motor.

 

[Kram]

I got a 1108 28mm taperlock. 8mm wide keyway, but only 2mm deep I'll have to grind key down.

VFD instructions say must use a earth leakage device that is type B, but cant find any from usual places. Where can I get one?
House does not have RCCD/RCBO's and the unit should probably be replaced, but until they get someone do that I will put a RCCD with the VFD.

 

[Kram]

Got the key out, not easy, used my new small vice and gently tapped the vice away. New one needs to be 8x5x50mm.

Modifying bench in place is not fun. I dont have space to start moving stuff.

Line on the wall - I struggle to drill straight by hand. Put a line up the wall and keep the rear of drill centered on it, perfect.

 

[Kram]

Vfd box starting to take shape, just losely held together at the moment. 210x310x200mm. It was an old pc case. Not decided if Ill use aluminium or perspex for the full front or just a small part of it to see vfd screen. Side panels hidden away back of garage. Once all the panels are screwed together for ground continuity, Ill seal all the small gaps with silicone. A (too big) proper one would have cost me 50 quid.

 

[Kram]

Putting the old controller back togerher with new chips. I found a couple of weak crimps that pulled off no force, checked the other accessable ones and found this

The wire is folded back and crimped on the insulation. These warco lathes are utter **** in terms of assembly and quality control.

Edit: only then to reassemble, plug in and trip the rcd. It would help if the incoming power cable was in the chock block and not dangling loose inside the machine!
All fixed, she runs.

 

[Kram]

So many pop rivets!

 

[Kram]

From Saturday, motor mounts started with crude cut slots in 20mm tube to give tension adjustment. Motor is heavy, so I might bolt on a screw for fine adjustment. The central bench beam position conflicts with the lathe bolts.

 

[Kram]

About to do first test with the lathe on the 1:1 pulley - have not splined it yet so I will be carefull.

Anyone have experince setting up optidrive inputs? The options seem quite limiting and it will not read the motors theemistor, only use it as a trip, so instead I will get a cheap led display for that. Might have to use an arduino to give more options.
Wiring it up with inputs as:
Enable
Direction
E Trip
Speed adjust

https://inverterdrive.com/file/Invertek-Optidrive-E3-Manual
Page 32 if anyone wants a look.

Still need to make up front panel with clear for screen. Nut inserts have not arrived (I ordered wrong type for plastic, but should be ok for this.)
Might order a brake resistor, unsure if its useful on a lathe?

 

[daleyd]

I’ve never known a drive that will give a read out of a thermistor - they are non linear and there are loads of different types, unlike an rtd or thermocouple where a particular “type” will always give the same almost linear characteristic eg a pt100 rtd. What many drives will do, and I’d assume your invertek may as it’s a decent make, is give you an approximate read out of motor temperature that it can calculate from the measured current/resistance/voltage through the windings.

I think to get a reading off a thermistor you may well need some signal conditioning to convert the resistance curve, something like an Arduino or raspberry pi might be able to do it cheaply?

 

[Kram]

Your right, its a ptc 130c type, only good for tripping at a set temperature.

Got it running, adjusted speeds to be 220- 1400rpm.

Need to work out how to do the E stop and safety interlocks. It only has 4 inputs to play with so they have to be in series with the start switch/enable. That means cant use the push button start setting.

 

[Pete.]

About to do first test with the lathe on the 1:1 pulley - have not splined it yet so I will be carefull.

Anyone have experince setting up optidrive inputs? The options seem quite limiting and it will not read the motors theemistor, only use it as a trip, so instead I will get a cheap led display for that. Might have to use an arduino to give more options.
Wiring it up with inputs as:
Enable
Direction
E Trip
Speed adjust

https://inverterdrive.com/file/Invertek-Optidrive-E3-Manual
Page 32 if anyone wants a look.

Still need to make up front panel with clear for screen. Nut inserts have not arrived (I ordered wrong type for plastic, but should be ok for this.)
Might order a brake resistor, unsure if its useful on a lathe?

I've got a bunch of panel switches and a few spare brake resistors. Do you have a pendant or are you going to build one?

Here's one of the resistors installed in my HLV panel:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/hardinge-lathe-vfd-install.87787/#post-1272708

 

[Kram]

Im going to mount controls on the enclosure panel to begin with. When its done and I wont use the dc motor anymore I can remove the old electrics and wire controls on the lathe.

Rheostats good idea. I will need something easy to mount outside of enclosure, as I dont want the heat, and dont have space in there. 5 of these 10r, 100w should do.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-01-5k-Ohm-Watt-Shell-Power-Aluminum-Housed-Case-Wirewound-25-50-100W-Resistor/183603453219

One thing my VFD has no power-off button. If I remove power (when idle) it logs this as an under-voltage trip?!?

 

[Pete.]

None of them have a power button, none I've seen anyway. The UV alert is normal as the bus voltage drops away.

 

[Kram]

57mm holesaw useful for something.

 

[Pete.]

Looking in the manual there's a function to scale the readout, if you set it to read motor RPM and set the scaling right it'll display spindle RPM.

 

[Kram]

I wont want to be changing it with each pulley change, if I ever get the other pulleys done. Im going to keep the warco spindle rpm board for that, it is easy to seperate from the other wiring. Comparing with the 1:1 pulley it is almost exact, 7-15 rpm slower on spindle than motor.

Having some problems today, I think the pots I got are ****, trying to find a decent replacement in old parts bag.

 

[RichardM]

Think whether you want a braking resistor before you buy one, try it without first, mine stops quick enough for me without one. If you do go for one, consult your specs for it, it will probably need to handle more than 100w.

 

[Kram]

The default ramps for mine are far too slow and nedd adjusting, but when I hit the trip then it stops in an instant.

Its an interesting one. These will see very high peak power for about quater second at most.

With Petes rheostat I wouldnt be suprised if it gets red hot, but as its just wire it will be fine. 5 in series splits the load so it will do 500w.

Wanted a bigger hole. Sealed up with tape untilnuts arrive. I will also make up push-through buttons to control the keypad settings.

 

[Pete.]

I was stopping my 2.2kw motor from flat out several times in a row. The resistor got warm but no more. I use the two halves in parallel.

 

[Kram]

I'll put a cover and earth before conneting up.