New Progress no.1 Refurb

[hooblah]

Just scored a cheap progress no.1 off eBay and it needs a bit of work to bring it up to scratch.
The first thing is I need to replace the bearings in the quill, but I can't seem to get the chuck off. I've tried moving the knurled collar all the way to the top and bottom, even hanging off it with my grips, but it doesn't want to budge. Any ideas?
Ideally I'd like a guide/diagram to see how it all comes apart.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Should help with taper removal.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/what-is-the-fitting-or-taper-of-my-chuck.52880/

 

[gaz1]

oh and get your table higher if you havent got 3 hands to do it and set it around 1 1/2" and a piece of wood on the plate at lest if it drops out dosnt end up on the floor

 

[hooblah]

Thanks guys. It's not a Morse taper btw. I believe it's a Jacobs taper.

It's all sorted and I've got the thing completely stripped. Just need to figure out what bearings I need now. Not sure if this has a complete set so I'd like to get my hands on some diagrams or parts lists.

Also, are spares still available for these? Might need a couple of bits as this isn't in the best condition.

 

[Burdekin]

The quill just winds out of the head. What parts are you needing?

 

[rtbcomp]

Go by the markings on the bearings, I have a Progress No2 and the bearing sizes in the manual don't match the machine.

PS we need photos!

 

[hooblah]

So here it is during stripping. 2 handles for the feed are missing as you can see. Can I source them or do I need to make my own? Could also do with some new knobs on all the handles.

The limit stop is broken. Would also like one of those.

Don't even know what this little hole is for. Any ideas?

A couple of missing teeth on this. Wouls like to source a new one.

Name plate. Speed seems a bit high? Was hoping it would run a lot slower than that. Can I do anytjing about that? Also it's currently fitted with a 0.25hp motor instead of 0.5hp.

This hasn't seen grease in a long time.

The bottom bearing in this stack is a deep groove and feels a bit notchy. Would like to replace the lot tbh.
The topmost thrust bearing race is just that, a race. Not sure why it's there. Perhaps someone stripped it and left out the rest of it?
But looking at the bearings, it seems like this thing may still be on some of its original bearings. Some of them are branded as SKEFKO, which I now understand to be SKF, but pre 1973.

Quill bearings identified.

So that's were were at as of today. Finished stripping it and now I've just gotta find a few bits for it. I'll get it painted in the mean time.

Oh btw, I wound the feed right down and the quill just dropped out. Is that meant to happen or is something meant to hold it in?

 

[Burdekin]

Think you may have to source used parts or make new ones. Yes the quill just winds out. I had to make a couple of knobs are a tiny wee repair on the shroud. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/elliott-progress-refurb-photo-heavy.62271/#post-867539

 

[Seadog]

http://www.gatemachinery.com/ own the rights to Elliott drills and carry the last remaining spares for them. Some of the bearings in the No. 2 are narrow thrust races and may be difficult to source. The hole is for oil I would imagine.

You can get suitable knobs from RS (at least you could). I replaced all on mine some 20 years ago when I could get them for free through work.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/knobs/0686058/ - now available in 10 packs, they were 25 in a pack when I got mine. Made a fair profit selling off the others in ones and twos on eBay.

 

[rtbcomp]

I used the knobs off an old Clarke I was scrapping. Google "Machine control knobs" or suchlike. Most will have metric threads, but buy ones with oversize holes and use Milliput or something to fasten them to the levers

 

[Seadog]

Or buy ones with smaller holes and drill and tap, as I did.

 

[hooblah]

Thanks for your input guys. I looked on eBay and there's loads of knobs, and they're quite cheap!

Onto painting; ill be rubbing this down and some areas may be bare metal. Should I prime with acrylic spray cans and then cover with tekaloid, use a different primer, or skip priming altogethee and go straight to tekaloid?

 

[Burdekin]

If using spray can primer go for the Upol etch primer. Painted over it with 2k polyurethane last weekend and had no issues. Supposed to stick very well for a 1k aerosol.

 

[hooblah]

Ok no probs.

Was reading another thread on here which suggested to use tekaloid. Ideally I'm after the cheapest, most hard wearing paint that can be applied by brush. I would have thought something more modern like an epoxy paint would be better?

 

[Burdekin]

I used Jotun Penguard HB epoxy to paint mine but it has limited colours to choose from. Should be a good durable paint. https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/primers/two-pack/penguard-express It's a semi-gloss and can be used as a primer and topcoat. But is £35 wihout considering thiner and postage.

I've painted a couple of my things with enamel, one was my bead roller, not sure what chemical it came in contact with but it bubbled up and peeled off. The enamel might be fine and as you can just buy 1lt of it it is cheap.

 

[Burdekin]

From the coach painting tips for the Tekaloid, make sure you follow the recommendations: https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...oid-318-single-pack-coach-enamel-all-colours/

"It's not unknown for the coach painter to go to extream lengths in order to obtain the cleanest possible finish by wearing lint free overalls or simply just shorts and covering the human body with Linseed oil, this will stop human body fallout illiminating skin dust, hair, fluff etc from falling and contaminating freshly varnished/painted panels."

 

[hooblah]

Lol. I'll most likely be painting it in my dirty garage with the door open. I think human body fallout is the least of my worries...

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Smith and allen recomended a tractol primer with techaloid top coat.
Found it to be very hard wearing and applied easily with brush and roller. Also available in aerosol.
https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...ack-undercoat-light-grey-renamed-tractol-816/
https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...329-single-pack-machinery-enamel-all-colours/

 

[hooblah]

Of course they'd recommend their own product...
I've got plenty of acrylic primer in aerosol cans so I'd rather just use that.

So now I need to decide on colour. I was thinking cream? Or possibly red?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Of course they'd recommend their own product...
I've got plenty of acrylic primer in aerosol cans so I'd rather just use that.

So now I need to decide on colour. I was thinking cream? Or possibly red?

I approached s and a as a supplier of tractol after researching the product elsewhere and tool there advice of the best choice within there range for my application.

Wasnt aware they were own brand just a supplier/dealer.

After using I can and do recomended it.
About to buy another 5litres of each for another lathe based on previous use.