New to me - Colchester Triumph

[Lewis_RX8]

Thinking about it....the machines that make the machines, have advanced so much that the production costs have effectively reduced?

But what about the machines that make the machines, that make the machines

 

[prepman]

But what about the machines that make the machines, that make the machines

Sarah Connor broke them....but they're building machines to fix them

 

[prepman]

Well..sigh.......After the wobbly revolting (sic) centre, plus a lucid moment of tranquility. I rechecked with test bar (which is getting decidely smaller in diameter) and the taper is insignificant. I can almost make difference zero, depending on touch of micrometer.
0.01mm maybe or less. Tailstock is now back in alignment. The last few 1/10ths were taxing.
So I will not be ripping the spindle apart any time soon. 20ltrs of Mannol iso 32 just arrived, the remnants of which will be used for my cremation

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Well..sigh.......After the wobbly revolting (sic) centre, plus a lucid moment of tranquility. I rechecked with test bar (which is getting decidely smaller in diameter) and the taper is insignificant. I can almost make difference zero, depending on touch of micrometer.
0.01mm maybe or less. Tailstock is now back in alignment. The last few 1/10ths were taxing.
So I will not be ripping the spindle apart any time soon. 20ltrs of Mannol iso 32 just arrived, the remnants of which will be used for my cremation

Need a lot of patience and persistence adjusting these old beasts , glad you got it sorted in the end. 0.01mm plenty good enough for anything I would be doing on it

 

[minimutly]

Need a lot of patience and persistence adjusting these old beasts , glad you got it sorted in the end. 0.01mm plenty good enough for anything I would be doing on it

Aaand then you'll need to turn a long taper so set it to one side.....

 

[prepman]

Need a lot of patience and persistence adjusting these old beasts , glad you got it sorted in the end. 0.01mm plenty good enough for anything I would be doing on it

Insomnia-R-us........As you no doubt now know, there is no headstock adjustment on the Mk1. The bed was precision scraped. A time consuming operation that Colchester got around by making the later models adjustable, according to Lathes + Machine Tool Archive
Still can't fully understand what transpired. The adjustment to the bearings played some part. If there is too much play then the bearing will slump and not be centralised, which will cause the axis to angle downwards towards the tailstock, producing a reduced cut away from chuck . What happens to the rear bearing? Does it have springs or not. If not then it should slump and correct? Or does the front bearing act as fulcrum with the weight of the chuck and the rear rise? Arrgh! My brain's frying. The vibration I had I've put down to minute swarf on the cone throwing the run-out. Cleaning got rid of the 0.8mm run out. That's the trouble, when your busy making stuff. I'd swapped to the 4 jaw for something, can't remember what and probably never will.

I've got some small bar magnets on order and will be driiling the drains plugs and then epoxy them in to pick up gear debris. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132395304452

The right-hand rear selector is the noisy gear for high speed position. Is it the same on yours?

I digressed with the Colchester. Want to get back to ali welding with new advanced AC tig
Then on to designing a post knocker for my Kubota...I'll start a thread. Lot of posts to replace.

 

[prepman]

Aaand then you'll need to turn a long taper so set it to one side.....

I'll put it with all the others

 

[addjunkie]

Then on to designing a post knocker for my Kubota...I'll start a thread. Lot of posts to replace.

I have a Kubota too. Why reinvent the wheel. Buy used knocker, use and sell on…or keep as your new posts will only last 7 years or so.

There is a home built post knocker thread on here somewhere

 

[minimutly]

Insomnia-R-us........As you no doubt now know, there is no headstock adjustment on the Mk1. The bed was precision scraped. A time consuming operation that Colchester got around by making the later models adjustable, according to Lathes + Machine Tool Archive
Still can't fully understand what transpired. The adjustment to the bearings played some part. If there is too much play then the bearing will slump and not be centralised, which will cause the axis to angle downwards towards the tailstock, producing a reduced cut away from chuck . What happens to the rear bearing? Does it have springs or not. If not then it should slump and correct? Or does the front bearing act as fulcrum with the weight of the chuck and the rear rise? Arrgh! My brain's frying. The vibration I had I've put down to minute swarf on the cone throwing the run-out. Cleaning got rid of the 0.8mm run out. That's the trouble, when your busy making stuff. I'd swapped to the 4 jaw for something, can't remember what and probably never will.

I've got some small bar magnets on order and will be driiling the drains plugs and then epoxy them in to pick up gear debris. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132395304452

The right-hand rear selector is the noisy gear for high speed position. Is it the same on yours?

I digressed with the Colchester. Want to get back to ali welding with new advanced AC tig
Then on to designing a post knocker for my Kubota...I'll start a thread. Lot of posts to replace.

Interesting stuff there on the headstock adjustment, I could never work out how it was adjustable, given the inverted vways go under the head. My old mk1 is rough as can be, but the bearings have never given me cause to question them. One day, I will strip it and get it ground end to end, until then it gets used.

 

[prepman]

I have a Kubota too. Why reinvent the wheel. Buy used knocker, use and sell on…or keep as your new posts will only last 7 years or so.

There is a home built post knocker thread on here somewhere

At present I'm using the tractor frontloader to push them in. But as the front wheels lift, if there's an incline the front moves downhill and the post goes in angled. 3 point is a very unpractical alternative. So I wanted to makes something that would carry a magazine of stakes and an electrical (swivel) alignment. I was looking at something a little better than the hammer style instead, using a rotary action. Similar to the cement mixer I made. Plus I'd make one, haven't seen one at a realistic price. I will however have a quick look on eBay now. Nope nothing.

 

[Pete.]

Interesting stuff there on the headstock adjustment, I could never work out how it was adjustable, given the inverted vways go under the head. My old mk1 is rough as can be, but the bearings have never given me cause to question them. One day, I will strip it and get it ground end to end, until then it gets used.

Where the vee way passes under the headstock the male vee is smaller than the female one, so there is adjustment room.

 

[prepman]

Where the vee way passes under the headstock the male vee is smaller than the female one, so there is adjustment room.

That's interesting. How is adjustment obtained? This is without removing material I presume?

 

[Pete.]

That's interesting. How is adjustment obtained? This is without removing material I presume?View attachment 327447

That one doesn't appear to be adjustable.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Insomnia-R-us........As you no doubt now know, there is no headstock adjustment on the Mk1. The bed was precision scraped.

The right-hand rear selector is the noisy gear for high speed position. Is it the same on yours?

Mine is not too noisy really in any selected gear it's more the vibrations that concern me.

That's interesting. How is adjustment obtained? This is without removing material I presume?View attachment 327447

That bed is certainly different to mine which adjusts with bolts at the back and front. I assume that would save a lot of setting up when removing the headstock.

 

[prepman]

Mine is not too noisy really in any selected gear it's more the vibrations that concern me.


That bed is certainly different to mine which adjusts with bolts at the back and front. I assume that would save a lot of setting up when removing the headstock.

What's the run out on the chuck like? The gearboxes were noted as being noisy. I suppose mine isn't too bad, when not in that selector position. But certainly shifts gear teeth.
Yours is a Triumph, had to re-cap the thread title. Can you post a pic of the adjustments. On the MK2 Student it is pegged apparently.

Interesting stuff there on the headstock adjustment, I could never work out how it was adjustable, given the inverted vways go under the head. My old mk1 is rough as can be, but the bearings have never given me cause to question them. One day, I will strip it and get it ground end to end, until then it gets used.

Did you get any quotes on a bed re-grind. Suppose you could have it induction hardened as well? The bed on mine's not hardened.

 

[prepman]

As a border note. I'm happy with the lathe as it is. Just wish I could do what I do with Linux and take snapshot and it's frozen in time? But it's a nice feeling that it is in relatively good nick for 60yr + old lathe.
Only wish I was?....coming up to my 3rd can....so time to stop typing. Got a warm fuzzy glow, which could be the beer or perhaps it is the knowledge that it'll be ok when I come to use it.

 

[minimutly]

What's the run out on the chuck like? The gearboxes were noted as being noisy. I suppose mine isn't too bad, when not in that selector position. But certainly shifts gear teeth.
Yours is a Triumph, had to re-cap the thread title. Can you post a pic of the adjustments. On the MK2 Student it is pegged apparently.

Did you get any quotes on a bed re-grind. Suppose you could have it induction hardened as well? The bed on mine's not hardened.

No, never got a firm quote - likely it will be many times what I paid for the lathe. I might be tempted to scrape it once I get my power scraper running again, but that needs a gear, which needs a mill, which needs a handle, and a geartrain etc etc....

 

[prepman]

No, never got a firm quote - likely it will be many times what I paid for the lathe. I might be tempted to scrape it once I get my power scraper running again, but that needs a gear, which needs a mill, which needs a handle, and a geartrain etc etc....

Think we've got crossed lines. The regrind question was to Minimutly and the runout to you.

That one doesn't appear to be adjustable.

It's Mk1 Student. I believe they were all like this. Mk 2 had the adjustment.

 

[prepman]

No, never got a firm quote - likely it will be many times what I paid for the lathe. I might be tempted to scrape it once I get my power scraper running again, but that needs a gear, which needs a mill, which needs a handle, and a geartrain etc etc....

Pheeew! Don't think I like to attempt scraping the bed. I haven't the parallel gauges to do it for one thing. Does yours need it? I can't rmember if you mentioned a taper? Keep also forgetting that Lewis_RX8's is a Triumph not a Student.

 

[minimutly]

My Triumph is worn, so each time I machine anything long I do a set up and check, correct the error and carry on. It's a pain, but works for me.