O-ring recess machining

[mike os]

They are good lads we use them for almost all of our hydraulics

 

[8ob]

Port contour tooling, I suppose someone with a tool grinder could probably make one.
https://www.newmantools.com/sct/port_contour_cutters.htm
https://www.newmantools.com/sct/port_contour_cutters.htm

 

[scottmk1]

Port contour tooling, I suppose someone with a tool grinder could probably make one.
https://www.newmantools.com/sct/port_contour_cutters.htm

Yes I seen those, but for my application I think doing what I've already done but finish reaming the bores and using the taper end mill I'll be OK.

 

[Brad93]

If you post Your drawings I might have something that would work.

 

[scottmk1]

If you post Your drawings I might have something that would work.

Tooling for machining the cavities or valve blocks?

 

[Brad93]

Tooling for machining the cavities or valve blocks?

The cavities.

 

[scottmk1]

The cavities.

It's this drawing that Pete posted.

 

[Johnnybravo]

Drill a core hole slightly smaller than finished size and finish it with a boring head in the mill. Job done..

Otherwise Drill services in Horley could grind you a form drill for that. Use it for finishing in a pre drilled hole .

 

[scottmk1]

If you post Your drawings I might have something that would work.

Did you have time to see if you had anything @Brad93

 

[Brad93]

Did you have time to see if you had anything @Brad93

I’ll have a look tomorrow for you mate. There was a few odd form milling tools in my cabinet when I picked it up.

 

[scottmk1]

I’ll have a look tomorrow for you mate. There was a few odd form milling tools in my cabinet when I picked it up.

Nice one thanks.

 

[Pete.]

Drill a core hole slightly smaller than finished size and finish it with a boring head in the mill. Job done..

Otherwise Drill services in Horley could grind you a form drill for that. Use it for finishing in a pre drilled hole .

This is how I think I would do it if I only had to make one or two.

1. Drill and ream yellow 12.5mm
2. Grind a 60 degree chamfer tool and set stops for the depth.
3. Bore blue to depth stop
4. Bore green to depth stop
5. Countersink red to depth stop
6. Cut 18mm x 1.5 thread with a tap

 

[scottmk1]

This is how I think I would do it if I only had to make one or two.

1. Drill and ream yellow 12.5mm
2. Grind a 60 degree chamfer tool and set stops for the depth.
3. Bore blue to depth stop
4. Bore green to depth stop
5. Countersink red to depth stop
6. Cut 18mm x 1.5 thread with a tap


View attachment 269196

Essentially that's what I've done so far, but without the correct 15 degree chamfers for the O-ring at the top. I've ordered the tool to do that so if Brad doesn't have anything to do it in one go, I'll start again, but finish ream the bores instead of relying on the drilled finish.

 

[Pete.]

The top chamfer is 45 degrees - normal 90-degree countersink will cut it.

 

[scottmk1]

The top chamfer is 45 degrees - normal 90-degree countersink will cut it.

It's not 45, it's 15 degrees.

 

[Hood]

I think @Pete. was meaning the chamfer below the 15 degree tapered bore.

 

[scottmk1]

Ahh yeh I got you.

 

[Hood]

Are you doing it on CNC? If not then any chamfer tool would have to be the right diameter for each section. PITA to do on a manual without a form tool I would think. Yes doable but time consuming.

 

[scottmk1]

No, doing it on the Bilgeport. I don't have that Semco mill in my workshop yet so no CNC facility yet.

 

[Hood]

Suppose a boring head with a suitably ground cutter could be used to get the chamfer on the different diameters or even a rotary table but still a pain.