lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
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have a look on here search my posts I did put some the restoration on here
- Thread starter lotus 30
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Normsthename
Member
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- 539
How about photoshopping the previous Dial with a Jaeger Logo like this?
cosgb.blogspot.com
Dead easy to change the colour from black and white or if the resoluton is not good enough, trace over it in a Vector program.
Andy
British Jaeger Instruments Ltd.
British Jaeger Instruments Ltd. was a manufacturer of speedometers, tachometers, and other motoring instruments. The origins of the company...
cosgb.blogspot.com
Dead easy to change the colour from black and white or if the resoluton is not good enough, trace over it in a Vector program.
Andy
Holy smoke!
I would not have guessed anywhere near £700.00.
I do like the patina and pre-war look.
It would be interesting to learn how the dial face was originally painted.
All of the similar looking dials I’ve seen available are branded the more recent “Smiths” rather than “Jaeger”.
Thank you, I will.
Or a colour laser would do the job..
This is why I suck at trying to be a business. I guess being a skinflint means I don't know the real value of work.
Agroshield
Member
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That one is perfect. The JAEGER has all the curls under it already.
The image URL is this:
Thus, we only need the digits above the pivot, and the required information is complete.
There is a whole lot of stuff here, but the pictures are too small to be useful:
Blue Chips
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I noticed that "RPM x 100" is a different font and lacks the full stops, but it shouldn't be hard to match the original font.
Also, the image is distorted a bit. It's not perfectly round.
RWD3M
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F me! how much?!!!
I've used them a couple of times over the years and TBF, I've been very happy with their work (if not their timescales!)., but never had to pay that sort of money. The last batch of instruments I had them do for me were a Speedo, OP gauge, fuel gauge and ammeter for a '36 Morris 8 and the total bill only came to just over £300 + the VAT. Granted that was 10 years ago but....
Agroshield
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You are right, thanks. The zeros on the original are really round. It is sharp-eyed details like that which make the difference between OK and really good.
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
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I was thinking about a speedo face when I was putting laser waterslides on a push bike frame.
I would have done a combo of paint, masking, waterslide and clear; all sound a lot of work?
I would have thought you could get a place that prints to pad print some for you, for
less than £700 and then, if the market is there, flog the ones you don't want to get your money back?
I had a speedo face I wanted printing, hence thinking about using a laser waterslide.
But I figured they were probably pad printed and I could see a way of doing that.
Using my pillar drill and pad?
I got as far as fooling around in illustrator, the radial array of lines made my computer crawl.
I realised I didn't want the speedo face badly enough to bother having a stab at printing one.
I would have done a combo of paint, masking, waterslide and clear; all sound a lot of work?
I would have thought you could get a place that prints to pad print some for you, for
less than £700 and then, if the market is there, flog the ones you don't want to get your money back?
I had a speedo face I wanted printing, hence thinking about using a laser waterslide.
But I figured they were probably pad printed and I could see a way of doing that.
Using my pillar drill and pad?
I got as far as fooling around in illustrator, the radial array of lines made my computer crawl.
I realised I didn't want the speedo face badly enough to bother having a stab at printing one.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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10 minutes in paint.net shows with more effort it could be done.
Blue Chips
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Inspired by @My Old Landy, I took it a bit further in Photoshop. Fixed the out-of-roundness of the perimeter, filled the holes, bumped up the contrast, made a quick attempt to match the original "R.P.M. x 100" font, and rotated the dial just slightly so that the tops of the indicator scale are at the same height. I couldn't read the text above the dial shaft. The dial mounting holes can be punched later in their exact locations after the dial is printed (or whatever process is used to make it).
It can be made more accurate if a direct scan of your original dial is available.
If I were making the dial, I'd probably try to duplicate it in a vector program like Adobe Illustrator to obtain maximum image sharpness. As mentioned by others, the trick will be to find the exact font used for the RPM numbers or else modify a closely-matched font. In Illustrator and other apps, fonts can be converted to outlines, making it fairly easy to modify individual characters.
Once you have the artwork file, there are lots of ways to create the dial (acid etching, anodizing, laser etching, etc.). It could even be silk screened, but the sharpness might suffer a bit. Search for "etched data plates" or "aluminum data plates," etc., and you should be able to find a number of companies that will make the plates from your artwork. Some may require a minimum quantity, but some don't.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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That looks really good. I could make him a vinyl sticker from that to keep him going until he gets one made.
Misterg
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This must be a later one - no dots in RPM:
From: https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/126530/smiths-chronometric-8k-tell-tale-rev-counter
From: https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/126530/smiths-chronometric-8k-tell-tale-rev-counter
Blue Chips
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Sure, feel free to use it.
If you'd like the Photoshop .psd file, let me know. As mentioned, I don't know what the text above the dial shaft/pivot is supposed to be, but you can easily change that.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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If @lotus 30 wants a sticker then yes please, that would be great, thank you.Sure, feel free to use it.
Agroshield
Member
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Seeing the one in the post from Mister, you can make out RC13 on the original one, so that is a couple more letters.
