Pillar Drill mods

[Seadog]

I don't know about "high spots," but it looks like there's a huge burr looking at the image. Dress it off with a fine file and oil stone and then try again.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Thanks. Anything to be careful of so I don’t flat spot it ? I can’t find anything on the internet that does a taper repair and I’ve not done that sort of thing before. I have more enthusiasm than experience and skill in some case at the moment. :-)

 

[Hopefuldave]

As Seadog said, careful filing and a fine oilstone - a small flatspot won't bother it, just don't whang on it with an angle grinder!
With keyless chucks too much torque* will lock 'em up - I keep a pair of pump pliers handy, put a piece of leather belt around the sleeve so I don't mess up the knurling

Dave H. (the other one)

* e.g. 1/2" BSF tapping in the lathe... Freqently.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Would these cover it ? I don’t have an oil stone currently.

BearMoo Sharpening Stone, 2-IN-1 Whetstone, 400/1000 Grit Knife Sharpening Stone - Waterstone - Rubber Stone Holder Included https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KLS9UCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iVwNFb38W7FE2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Draper Redline 68904 File Set (16-Piece) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012DDEK16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dlC_QVwNFbJ2PB0KY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


RH Preyda Adult Honing Oil Premium Oz, Transparent, One Size, 09RP017 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M0FJU6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dWwNFb323PTSS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Happy_welder22]

Went with this one - Draper 74697 100 mm x 25 mm x 12 mm Sharpening Stone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001KA1TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXDNFbFTEJ9WSI

 

[Happy_welder22]

Okay smoothed the stones and then gave it a rub over feeling for rough spots And now I have this.

 

[My Old Landy]

Ink it up again and see if you cured it

 

[Seadog]

If not, consider some fine grinding paste.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Servicing. This is where the older drills work better as they tend to respond well to servicing (a new drill taper would not look like the above :-) ) and you get to know your machine.

I changed the bearings, tided up the sleeve and put it back on properly.

replaced a missing grease nipple

And filled it up with exactly the right type of grease.

And there is something very nice about having the machine serviced and running as it should.

 

[Happy_welder22]

NVR switch. I’m a bit safety first so I like having a big red stop button and NVR as I don’t think a power cut would be a problem but maybe not something I want to find out is. Having had a helicopter event having a stop that now button very useful.

got mine from

https://www.toughleads.co.uk/collections/workshop-controls/products/no-volt-release-safety-switch-with-start-stop-and-emergency-stop-button

means I can just plug it in without changing anything else and it has nice thick pre made wires on it. I got mine a little short With the leads if I got it again I’d have ordered a bit more cable.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Inked it up again and it’s a bit better but still not seeing a lot of contact. Should I have a good portion of ink rubbing off from a light install and twist ? I’ve heated it a touch and applied a mallet. See how that goes.

 

[My Old Landy]

Inked it up again and it’s a bit better but still not seeing a lot of contact. Should I have a good portion of ink rubbing off from a light install and twist ? I’ve heated it a touch and applied a mallet. See how that goes.

If it wipes when you revolve it, it has good contact. Let us know how it goes!

 

[Happy_welder22]

So vices.

I got this one and it’s handy to keep smaller pieces under control. Somethings I’d like it to grip a bit more but a good solid vice that I use a lot. Got this from a Warco open day but I’m sure plenty around.

 

[Morrisman]

I got a keyless chuck from arceurotrade but can't get on with it - no matter how well I think I've tightened it, it will let go under load.
Too cheap, faulty or using it wrong

I have a rather excellent one I blagged from the machine shop I did my apprenticeship in....but I loaned it out once and it came back bent a few thou....

Of course, the culprit swears blind it was not them, but being used in a big radial arm drill i’d wager they hit it against something when throwing the arm back and forth.

Otherwise it would be living in my own bench drill right now.

 

[Jay1st]

I'm working on an old French brand pillar drill, a SYDERIC S13, dating from the mid 60's.
The motor is shot, 2 wingings are shorted and one is open circuit
Can't fit an other motor as the bracket is round and it's a tight fit so i dropped it in an electrical motor specialist to have it fixed.
It's predating the "Leroy Somer " association as it's only a SOMER.

The spindle is a CM1, it's fitted with a key less chuck and an emergency stop switch (that's not from the 60's)

 

[Happy_welder22]

Actuator lift. Some drills have a decent lift but mine was a manual process and I found the table heavy and awkward. A lot of thinking and actually a simple couple of brackets was enough to hold it. I find the ease and control very useful.

 

[Happy_welder22]

The cable tie is there as sometimes the table sticks and it prevents the actuator coming too far off the table.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Little magnets. Finding fairly powerful button magnets are pretty cheap and my answer to many problems is a magnet.

Handy little tool holder in this case.

I find it useful to just grab them from here.

 

[Munkul]

I got a keyless chuck from arceurotrade but can't get on with it - no matter how well I think I've tightened it, it will let go under load.
Too cheap, faulty or using it wrong

They are hit and miss, I find. I have the cheapest Chinese B16 keyless and it's been great. The two I got from ARC, same chuck, probably same factory, are very poor, they can't grip for toffee.

I do love keyless, though. I'll never go back to keyed, not for anything. Got a Rohm keyless now and it's quality.

 

[Happy_welder22]

Mine didn’t come with a light so I added one. Sticky pad and magnet to hold it in.