Plastidip paint.

[pedrobedro]

I think Rob is saying that cellulose is harder to do as it dries quicker and you don't get a wet edge for as long. I will freely admit to having never used 2 pack, as long as I can get cellulose I don't think I will. I have noticed 2 pack is not as flexible as cellulose. On some things I've repaired the panel would have pulled out with the paint intact in the olden days but with the new systems it has shattered the top coat like plastic.

 

[langy]

I think Rob is saying that cellulose is harder to do as it dries quicker and you don't get a wet edge for as long. I will freely admit to having never used 2 pack, as long as I can get cellulose I don't think I will. I have noticed 2 pack is not as flexible as cellulose. On some things I've repaired the panel would have pulled out with the paint intact in the olden days but with the new systems it has shattered the top coat like plastic.

You add plasticizer for flexible stuff, If you tried 2 pack you wouldn't bother with celly ever again.

 

[Weldinator]

I tried to get this plasticizer added once from the paint shop but they dont do it. It might be because they would rather sell stuff that already has it inside the paint/primer.

 

[pedrobedro]

You add plasticizer for flexible stuff, If you tried 2 pack you wouldn't bother with celly ever again.

The panel was a steel rear quarter which was dinged in a big shallow dent and the clear had cracked like a perspex sheet. I reckon it could have been left too long before applying the clear or it was put on in too many layers. It did look great before the ding and was most likely not the fault of the paint. Does 2 pack clean up easy enough with cellulose gun wash?

 

[langy]

The panel was a steel rear quarter which was dinged in a big shallow dent and the clear had cracked like a perspex sheet. I reckon it could have been left too long before applying the clear or it was put on in too many layers. It did look great before the ding and was most likely not the fault of the paint. Does 2 pack clean up easy enough with cellulose gun wash?

I reckon your right as 2K will flex like mad on a modern panel, lean against any new car and you will see what i mean !!!

 

[Weldinator]

The technical sheet is at the bottom of this page http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Home_Solutions/Plastidip&stage=1

I like it tbh, its the 1k version of epoxy apart from it not being 'very' resistant to petroleum. It has very good adhesion when the primer is used first. It has very high tolerance to impacts, water, air etc

Im going to get my self 2.5 litres of clear with some clear primer and thinners. I will apply it on top of the base coat, plastidip is solvent based too so it will stick very well and is an industrial paint. Read the testimonials from customers, some friends of mine used it on his front bumper and after a year no chips.

So thats 3 coats of high zinc primer on bare steel, it will self etch into the steel. Then stonechip, base coat body colour and the clear plastidip on the chassis of my project, it will be more than enough and no air fed mask needed

ps, is epoxy primer ok to use on top of 10% of unreachable rust ?

I had some and without wanting to use the sandblaster i got as much out as possible, thus the reason i use high zinc primer. IF this dip ever let water behind it (i very much doubt after reading their info about it) it still has to get behind the stonechip and zinc primer, i have no worries on that score. It can also be over-coated after a few years for extra protection

 

[Chipper]

'The 1k version of epoxy'? Where'd you get that from, it's not the slightest bit like it. See #2 and #6 for actual experience, not reading sheets and cherry-picked testimonials.

 

[steveo3002]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5H69eMjUXk

epoxy doesnt peel off like that lol

for how expensive it is id just use proper automotive products

 

[Weldinator]

We dont know fully how that was first applied, whether it had any primer on or a rough surface which it looks like it didn't. Its also been applied onto 2k clear not 1k solvent base coat. For a start it's being pulled off by hand not come off by itself through wear/stonechips, i can scrape epoxy paint of steel using a metal tool. People use it for steering wheels that would have a lot of wear to it.

I had to unbend a bracket that needed to be straightened up, i forgot to do it before it got sprayed in 2k epoxy, paint then clear, i'd scraped it clean of the steel in doing so.

Its like epoxy as it resists chips very well. Im getting the clear, there are other layers of paints and was just going to leave it with base coat but then thought some of this will protect it that little bit more. Plus with the 10% rust and that i'd already used the zinc primer before i knew you can roller the epoxy 2k on. Plus the floor pan still has old sealant on much like the wings, after 20 years worth most was still working well. To remove it all it would have taken me absolute ages, so removed all the loose rusty areas clean. The car was originally galvanised anyway.

As said, can epoxy cope with 10% surface rust like what high zinc primer can ? I tried all sorts of ways to get at the rust behind a thick curled up steel lip to no avail.

If it did ever rust or peel then its easy to fix and as the car isn't a daily driver the way ive had to sort mine out is more than enough. All the engine and body brackets are in epoxy and 2k paint/clear, they will get a fair bit of abrasion im sure.

So no matter how you look at it, for my situation/budget etc the above paints are the best i could get. Manor coatings could have been used but then they wont supply my cars colour and is only resistant to chippings, which incidentally was coated from factory.

 

[Chipper]

 

[Weldinator]

Not sure what that reply means. That video doesn't really prove anything unless you have one where proper prep for this particular paint has been done to gain much better adhesion ?

Can epoxy primer cope with up to 10% surface rust ?

I ask because i still have to finish off the rear chassis of the car and that will have some minute rust that cant be reached to be fully removed.

Also, has anyone here that uses epoxy actually used high zinc primer long enough to see if it isn't as good or near to as good at rust prevention ?

 

[Chipper]

That reply means after 3 now 4 pages of actual experience (9 or 10 yrs in my case using it off & on) and advice from at least bodyshop professional, you then ignore all that, draw some fanciful conclusions of your own somehow, and then start telling us about what the stuff is like!

 

[langy]

That reply means after 3 now 4 pages of actual experience (9 or 10 yrs in my case using it off & on) and advice from at least bodyshop professional, you then ignore all that, draw some fanciful conclusions of your own somehow, and then start telling us about what the stuff is like!

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink !!!

 

[PhillipM]

That reply means after 3 now 4 pages of actual experience (9 or 10 yrs in my case using it off & on) and advice from at least bodyshop professional, you then ignore all that, draw some fanciful conclusions of your own somehow, and then start telling us about what the stuff is like!

It's his usual pattern tbh!

Plastidip is nothing like 2k epoxy.

 

[Weldinator]

Again, no one has expressed their experience that epoxy will work when up to 10% of surface rust that maybe present ?

Experienced painters are a mixed bunch tbh, some say this, some say that, i have been advised 'a lot' of conflicting information before now, from pro's and members. Its about weeding out the rubbish pub talk, through research. Even pro's make mistakes, we are all learning, no matter how much you know.

As usual, thats another helpful post from mr m, whoever you are . Are you stalking me, seems to be a habit of yours recently and a bit weird, does it make you feel good sprouting rubbish about people ?

The thing with forums are, some will say thats no good to use but dont actually say/link the members the right stuff to use do they. They say thats no good but wont say what is, what does that say about people, no smoke without fire is there ?

I said it seems 'like' not the same, there is a difference. I bet epoxy might chip off when being stoned before this stuff does. Its about resisting chipping, etch will rust if its been chipped. I wont know its full extent until i experiment with it myself though.

Maybe this stuff is a bit over the top when stonechip has already been applied, my car of 20 years of age still has stonechip in tact. Nothing wrong is trying to get the best stuff for my cars situation is there.

I am a little undecided in using this for the floor pan, although its been ordered, it will be used for other things. There are other forums that love this stuff for their cars.

(fanciful conclusions of your own somehow) Nothing i have written is 'fanciful' at all, i read all their info and researched about this stuff and you call it 'fanciful'

Try reading their info on the stuff and its adhesion tips.

 

[brightspark]

do what i do with virtualy everything im not sure on . ask everyones opinion on a subject or method and then form your own opinion . then choose what u think is the best option for u and live with it instead of iffs and butts

 

[langy]

Again, no one has expressed their experience that epoxy will work when up to 10% of surface rust that maybe present ?

Experienced painters are a mixed bunch tbh, some say this, some say that, i have been advised 'a lot' of conflicting information before now, from pro's and members. Its about weeding out the rubbish pub talk, through research. Even pro's make mistakes, we are all learning, no matter how much you know.

As usual, thats another helpful post from mr m, whoever you are . Are you stalking me, seems to be a habit of yours recently and a bit weird, does it make you feel good sprouting rubbish about people ?

The thing with forums are, some will say thats no good to use but dont actually say/link the members the right stuff to use do they. They say thats no good but wont say what is, what does that say about people, no smoke without fire is there ?

I said it seems 'like' not the same, there is a difference. I bet epoxy might chip off when being stoned before this stuff does. Its about resisting chipping, etch will rust if its been chipped. I wont know its full extent until i experiment with it myself though.

Maybe this stuff is a bit over the top when stonechip has already been applied, my car of 20 years of age still has stonechip in tact. Nothing wrong is trying to get the best stuff for my cars situation is there.

I am a little undecided in using this for the floor pan, although its been ordered, it will be used for other things. There are other forums that love this stuff for their cars.

(fanciful conclusions of your own somehow) Nothing i have written is 'fanciful' at all, i read all their info and researched about this stuff and you call it 'fanciful'

Try reading their info on the stuff and its adhesion tips.

In my opinion George i wouldn't put any paint or primer over rust, Better to do the job right to start with.
I've not known Epoxy to chip off, The other forums you have mentioned probably don't know any better !!!
You will only get correct advise by asking the correct people who have actually done the job, Unfortunately there are lots of people that want to be seen as knowing so Google stuff or read what other so called experts have typed.

 

[steveo3002]

epoxy will sit over your 10% rust as well as anything else , as said the proper answer is remove it all , not always possible when working at home i know

chances are it will be back sooner or later if you dont clean it up perfect , but at least its sealed away from the weather and will slow things down

 

[Chipper]

said it seems 'like' not the same, there is a difference.

No you didn't. Read what you posted:
"I like it tbh, its the 1k version of epoxy"

I've no need to read up, I say again I've used it. And I know well what one other major forum generally thinks of it, and that you won't see cars professionally sorted with it on them. Anyway, I'm done, good luck with it all.

 

[Weldinator]

epoxy will sit over your 10% rust as well as anything else , as said the proper answer is remove it all , not always possible when working at home i know

chances are it will be back sooner or later if you dont clean it up perfect , but at least its sealed away from the weather and will slow things down

Thats the thing, im trying to get the best i can with the limited funds/equipment. The facility (garage) i use would endanger other peoples lungs spraying 2k epoxy that maybe outside of the area. Only recently had i found out about roller 2k epoxy which was after i had already used high zinc primer on the areas. Can it be brush painted ?

The car will be checked over regularly to see if any did start coming away from the steel/zinc primer etc. I made sure every little bit was super clean until the rags were before i used the primer. Id say i cleaned over the floor pan at least 6 times.

I wont be using it now and hope the marine grade zinc primer and stonechip will do it's job.

As for the 10% rust issue, i tried my best to remove every last bit but its not always possible on some unreachable areas without a sandblaster. I will be using a cavity wax that will suffocate the rust, rust needs air and water. Inside the sills cant really be sandblasted, so that also needs the cavity wax, better then replacing the sills just because of some surface rust.

Wish i had a car lift, my neck, shoulders are still recovering

Thanks for the input