Plastidip paint.

[Weldinator]

On a plus side, this stuff does peel of by hand after more research, which is a good and bad thing. This is what i found http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/plasti-dip-problem-147970.html.

It could be a way of keeping the floor pan clean, spray on then a year later peel it off and gain an easy dirt removal way, then recoat, just a thought

I will use it on the front splitter i have, its quite big and when the car is low it will prevent chipping more than the 2k clear, of which i have seen chips on.

 

[RobGell]

The easy answer to most of the questions is to use Epoxy prier tinted to the colour you want.
You are missinformed about 2 pack being harder/drying too quick i'm afraid.

Sorry, you mis-read what I said. I was referring to celly being harder to get a uniform finish with as it dries quicker than two pack.

My info is also from actually doing the job, not just reading about it!

 

[RobGell]

Having said what I said, and having read quickly through the rest of this, I think that everybody is right in what they say generally. It is just that there is always many ways to crack walnuts so to speak, and different people favour different approaches to all things, which is just as well, or we would all be driving the same cars, apart from anything else.

Of course, complete derusting is the best start point, but then, paints need not only this, but an ideal surface keying too. Specifications for industrial paints give performance figures "when applied to steel prepped to (a British Standard number)", which inevitably means grit blasting.

If we are trying to recoat rusty steel, the only real way to derust is surely by blasting. Any other method has to be a compromise and there will therefore always be some degree of rust remaining. The amount will obviously affect the possible maximum adhesion of the applied coating, as will the nature of prepared bare steel / old paint. Hence we try to overcoat to try to protect against chipping as much as possible, as in these circumstances, ultimate adhesion is a bit of an unknown.

Again, it is mainly not the open sections of steel which cause problems, but the holes and corners, the nooks and crannies, which cause the problems, because unless you are very very capable of cleaning these areas, which are more or less impossible to do whatever you use, then these are the places that your rust will restart. Any of this work done at home is going to have to use a compromise when recoating, as the chances of ultimate preparation are pretty slim, surely!

Hence my approach, which i experiment with, despite what other professional restorers say, is to be diverse and try other ideas and not just stay on the straight and narrow. Frankly, and this is no reflection on anyone in general, or anyone elses opinions, a lot of the top professional refinishing I have seen is total s****. Nice topside, but the holes and corners are just not attended to. Presumaby a budget thing, but not good.

Anyhow, what I was trying to drive at is that rust control boils down purely to keeping air and moisture out. Basic chemistry tells us that rusting will not take place without moisture, to carry the Fe ions, and oxygen, which obviously is the oxidant, and which is dissolved as ions in the moisture; not to be confused with the O atom in the water molecule! Without moisture laden with dissolved oxygen, the Fe atoms cannot combine with oxygen. Therefore, keep these away from the steel, and it won't rust. This is why oily steel doesn't rust, obviously, because oil is a good block against both. Paint is not such a good block, and moisture can transfer through it. Epoxy is the best moisture block, the thicker the better within reason, and hence the roller, but rusty metal coated with anything has to be coated such that any remaining microscopic sharp pointy bits of rusty steel are fully encapsulated. Hence the thick coating. Stop moisture getting through, and it won't rust again, simple! I happened to think that clear plastidip would also assist in blocking moisture. We'll see. It is, as I said, experimental, but it seems okay so far, especially in areas which are otherwise impossible to prepare to the required degree for satisfactory normal painting otherwise.

 

[Weldinator]

Good reply and its true that rust needs those to carry on rusting.

I have spoken to them and was told its fine to use on the chassis but tbh i prefer using the 2k Rapture rolled on now. Using plastidip on front splitters is a good idea, 2k will only resist chipping to a certain degree, we all know how much lower splitters take in a lot of stones.

Nearly all of the rusty steel was taken back nice and shiny but there may still be a little bit of unseen rust on it which is why i went for the high zinc primer, it will stop it rusting further. I also keyed the clean surface a great deal to increase its adhesion. The rust i couldn't quite get totally rid of is behind a lip, most has gone though.

 

[RobGell]

Sounds good to me. Of course, this business of protecting the rusty stuff, (just sucking eggs teaching for a moment, sorry,) has traditionally involved oil spraying or more recently, wax spraying, for those for whom full prepping is impractical or unnecessary.

But then, also practically speaking, even for us who try to eliminate as much rust as possible, then recoat with paint, probably better than original, we will be hard pushed to eliminate enough of the dreaded brown powdery stuff to ensure that a new lovely coating of zinc or two pack or whatever, will fully encapsulate everything, to prevent this stuff from once more spreading out slowly and breaking the surface as it goes.

Trying to encapsulate as much as we can goes a long way, with stuff as moisture resistant as possible and which will successfully cover all the microscopic spikey bits, which poke through the surface of paint unseen, but practically, to finish the job we really have to fall back on the waxy oil solution for the untreatable bits!

Give Waxoyl a miss though. Use something that works, like Dinitrol or Dynax S50 or the original industrial dewatering fluid, Shell Ensis R or S. Proper painting prior will ensure that use of this stuff will then be minimal and mainly on inside sections and where these internal bits meet the well treated stuff. Sorry for waffling.

 

[Weldinator]

No worries, i will also be using a little cavity wax from Bilt Hamber too.