RaceDiagnostics
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I've been plating for the last couple of days, it's like waiting for a kettle to boil, then another one, then another one........thank god for beer.
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RaceDiagnostics
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I pulled out the subframe bolts with the car still resting on the subframe and wheels, I couldn't see how it could go wrong.....and it didn't
Looking better now.
Looking better now.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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RaceDiagnostics
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Next, back into the garage!
This area is the biggest concern.
The tools.
This looks bad, I wish I had a better understanding of how this fits together.
It was easier to strip most of the paint rather than just try to remove the old contact adhesive.
Ready to remove the bonnet.
Kim is very tolerant!
I think I will cut out the spot welds and peel back the "tabs" and then cut out the corroded area.
This area is the biggest concern.
The tools.
This looks bad, I wish I had a better understanding of how this fits together.
It was easier to strip most of the paint rather than just try to remove the old contact adhesive.
Ready to remove the bonnet.
Kim is very tolerant!
I think I will cut out the spot welds and peel back the "tabs" and then cut out the corroded area.
Last edited:
RaceDiagnostics
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I have this old picture showing the inside of the box section showing the flange in the top left area.
Just beyond the inner wing.
So went ahead and cut out this section.
I decided not to disturb the tab from the chassis rail and instead build up this area with weld supporting with a copper pad.
Paper template.
I used 2mm steel for the repair.
Cut and shaped.
Fine tuned.
Welded in.
Tidied up.
The box section treated with Dinitrol ML.
Just beyond the inner wing.
So went ahead and cut out this section.
I decided not to disturb the tab from the chassis rail and instead build up this area with weld supporting with a copper pad.
Paper template.
I used 2mm steel for the repair.
Cut and shaped.
Fine tuned.
Welded in.
Tidied up.
The box section treated with Dinitrol ML.
RaceDiagnostics
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This morning I removed the anti roll bar to give better access for painting, ideally I would remove the subframe too but I want to be able to roll the car back out of the garage a bit for painting so I will just mask it up.
Next I decided to install riv-nuts for the ignition ECU mounting bracket, better than trying to reach round to fit nuts.
Finally a job I think I've been putting off for a while, cleaning the engine bay. Degreaser first, then I'll sand it to give a key and then clean again with thinners. Boring and will take a couple of days to complete as there is lots of baked on grease.
This section above the radiator looks like its never been cleaned in the last 42 years.
That looks better.
Probably no update tomorrow as it will just be more of the same.
Next I decided to install riv-nuts for the ignition ECU mounting bracket, better than trying to reach round to fit nuts.
Finally a job I think I've been putting off for a while, cleaning the engine bay. Degreaser first, then I'll sand it to give a key and then clean again with thinners. Boring and will take a couple of days to complete as there is lots of baked on grease.
This section above the radiator looks like its never been cleaned in the last 42 years.
That looks better.
Probably no update tomorrow as it will just be more of the same.
I see you escaped the usual bulkhead rust that many seem to have. Which is lucky.
It's also good (for others) to see that a cheap Clarke 150 mig takes this in its stride.
RaceDiagnostics
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Not sure lucky is the right word, I spent 3000 hours fixing rust and other stuff on this car between Nov 2016 and June 2019. Rust in the blower motor area was minimal though, just welded in new motor fixing studs. I've seen lots that are a total mess in there.
RaceDiagnostics
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After a couple of days of preparation the engine bay is ready for paint. I will use an epoxy primer then basecoat and clear.
A few new supplies I had to purchase today, unfortunately I had no masking paper or film left, these will last me a lifetime.
The car was originally Magnetite blue but when I first started respraying it back in 2016 the colour spectrometer matched up Lada Sapphire blue as a closer match, so I have stuck with that since.
The bad news is that the weather forecast is cold (less than 10degC) for the next two weeks, so the painting will have to go on hold.
Does anyone have thoughts on spraying base and clear in sub 10 degree temps?
In the meantime I will push ahead mounting the transmission to the engine but as I don't want to leave the engine hanging on the crane or resting on the oil sump, I will need to make a frame so it can sit on the engine and transmission mounting points.
A few new supplies I had to purchase today, unfortunately I had no masking paper or film left, these will last me a lifetime.
The car was originally Magnetite blue but when I first started respraying it back in 2016 the colour spectrometer matched up Lada Sapphire blue as a closer match, so I have stuck with that since.
The bad news is that the weather forecast is cold (less than 10degC) for the next two weeks, so the painting will have to go on hold.
Does anyone have thoughts on spraying base and clear in sub 10 degree temps?
In the meantime I will push ahead mounting the transmission to the engine but as I don't want to leave the engine hanging on the crane or resting on the oil sump, I will need to make a frame so it can sit on the engine and transmission mounting points.
bert
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If you use fast thinners with the BC and fast hardner and thinners in the clear coat you should be fine. I painted recently in 12 degrees when the burner on our paint booth failed but I needed to get it done. Left it 5 days before a flatten and polish
RaceDiagnostics
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I've got "Genrock Super fast clear" and hardener and just enough fast thinners. I'll pick up some more fast thinners for the base on Monday, but I'll still hold on a while as I've no way to heat the garage with the double doors open. Temps will only be at best 7 or 8 for at least two weeks here. I need to keep the garage door open for ventilation when spraying so no way to heat. I will wait for two consecutive days of at least 12 so I can spray the epoxy then leave a fan heater on overnight before finishing the base and clear the following day.
RaceDiagnostics
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The alternator connector has never had a cover and now also has this insulation problem.
I was able to buy a cheap generic connector on ebay.
A new wire spliced in and the new connector fitted.
I then started to weld up a frame to support the engine, it was going well...
...... until the welder started to fail.
It then completely died.
A quick poke around inside revealed nothing, so I left it for 10 minutes and it burst back into life, I think a thermal cut-out out had triggered.
I'll finish the job tomorrow and move the engine off the stand and onto my new support.
I was able to buy a cheap generic connector on ebay.
Pardon our interruption...
www.ebay.co.uk
A new wire spliced in and the new connector fitted.
I then started to weld up a frame to support the engine, it was going well...
...... until the welder started to fail.
It then completely died.
A quick poke around inside revealed nothing, so I left it for 10 minutes and it burst back into life, I think a thermal cut-out out had triggered.
I'll finish the job tomorrow and move the engine off the stand and onto my new support.
RaceDiagnostics
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It's a Clarke 105en, it has a fan which did keep going when it stopped welding, I guess it just cant weld more than about 12 inches at full power in one go.
