Pulled out my engine today

[slim_boy_fat]

I'd still apply some ... it's not called penetrating oil for nothing !

A mix of Acetone + ATF is [probably] the best penetrating mix in the world.

How about heat, p/oil and one of these if you can get access ? I know they're a bit of a blunt instrument but any port in a storm, and all that.

 

[Wallace]

+1 for good old PlusGas.

 

[Morrisman]

Yes they are tight, no way any snake oil can work its way in.

If you can get the bolt head moving a touch, make a ‘ditch’ around the head with Blu Tak, then fill it with penetrating oil. Some will/should/might work its way down the shaft of the bolt.

 

[Nick DV]

+1 for good old PlusGas.

+2 for good old PlusGas

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Here is how it went.

More later.

 

[Mick Annick]

+2 for good old PlusGas

+3

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

This is the bolt that made it out.

The one I had to cut off, I think I will be able to get this out fairly easily. Th good news is there was no damage to the head.

The other side.

The damaged intake manifold. It's not going to be easy to get the shaft of the bolt out. Once it is out, I will need to get someone to TIG weld the damaged area to repair it. There also looks to have been a bit of corrosion to the surfaces where coolant was washing against the surface and leaking under the gasket.

What are your thoughts on getting the bolt shaft out, heat and hammer or take it to someone with a mill to drill it out?

 

[Melvyn Best]

A bit late now but it may have been possible to take off a little bit of the inlet so the remains of the bolt was above the surface then weld a nut on? You may still be able to weld a nut on to the remaining piece

 

[8ob]

+3

+4 and add in a bit of patience

Bob

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

A bit late now but it may have been possible to take off a little bit of the inlet so the remains of the bolt was above the surface then weld a nut on? You may still be able to weld a nut on to the remaining piece

The entire head of the cap head bolt was still there, that's what the nut was welded too.

 

[Melvyn Best]

I meant the one that had broken,

 

[jsf55]

50% success rate, but i think it's more than salvageable from here

 

[Cobbler]

This is the bolt that made it out.

What are your thoughts on getting the bolt shaft out, heat and hammer or take it to someone with a mill to drill it out?

I think I would form a dam around the bolt to contain penetrating oil & leave it for a few days & try to punch the bolt out.

 

[roofman]

Seems a good result all things consided...the manifold should tig up and get it re-faced and the remaining stud should drift out with local heat and sturdy support on the other side i think. I would also consider pushing it out with a press if you have one or access to one.

 

[Mick Annick]

+4 and add in a bit of patience

Bob

I bought a Metalcraft twister from @julianthegypsy a few years back, it had lain unused under his bench for quite a few years, took two months of plus gas to free it off, but it’s fine now

 

[8ob]

I bought a Metalcraft twister from @julianthegypsy a few years back, it had lain unused under his bench for quite a few years, took two months of plus gas to free it off, but it’s fine now

I used to mess about with V12 jag engines and getting the heads off the studs was always a lot of grief, I had a huge plate profile cut with all the head studs positions drilled/taped and lots of other holes to make it clamp down on the head. The tapped holes had bolts screwed into them to bare down directly onto the head studs to act as a giant puller, that gurt plate ,plus gas, heat and a lot of patience always got them off.Considered an impossible job by some but that plate never failed.


Bob

 

[Melvyn Best]

I used to mess about with V12 jag engines and getting the heads off the studs was always a lot of grief, I had a huge plate profile cut with all the head studs positions drilled/taped and lots of other holes to make it clamp down on the head. The tapped holes had bolts screwed into them to bare down directly onto the head studs to act as a giant puller, that gurt plate ,plus gas, heat and a lot of patience always got them off.Considered an impossible job by some but that plate never failed.


Bob

I remember doing a head gasket on a Triumph 2000 , all the head nuts off and the studs soaked in plus gas and had a block and tackle trying to lift the head which also lifted the front wheels off the deck . Left it overnight like that , in the morning it was still in place, went for breakfast , came back and it was off. Dolomites could be fun as well

 

[octo0072000]

remember some so called mechanic removing the head bolts on a rover V8 with a windy gun and ripped all the threads out of the block
lucky it was his own car ended up with a s/hand motor

 

[ranchero]

This is the bolt that made it out.

The one I had to cut off, I think I will be able to get this out fairly easily. Th good news is there was no damage to the head.

The other side.

The damaged intake manifold. It's not going to be easy to get the shaft of the bolt out. Once it is out, I will need to get someone to TIG weld the damaged area to repair it. There also looks to have been a bit of corrosion to the surfaces where coolant was washing against the surface and leaking under the gasket.

What are your thoughts on getting the bolt shaft out, heat and hammer or take it to someone with a mill to drill it out?

i would drill it out

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I meant the one that had broken,

There is actually quite a bit of meat at the top of the one that's now sheared, I can't see any reason to not grind off a good chunk and have another go at welding on another nut.