Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
This was the effort of ‘restoration’ the previous owner started. Thankfully after five tines they gave up. I reckon I’ll get all these sandblasted
- Thread starter Dieselman 63
- Start date
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
So I’ve managed to pick up an injury and my finger is very swollen which isn’t fun. It’s antibiotics to the rescue which is good. Bloody hurts though.
I am repairing our Husqvarna TS 242, it’s a lawnmower really, but they call it a lawn tractor. It’s 2wd rwd with lawn tyres, it’s not a tractor
but oh well. This spindle is totally shot, I’ll have to order a new one and I might do the other side too. New blades which we have in stock for some reason. Look at the wear vs the blade!
I am repairing our Husqvarna TS 242, it’s a lawnmower really, but they call it a lawn tractor. It’s 2wd rwd with lawn tyres, it’s not a tractor
but oh well. This spindle is totally shot, I’ll have to order a new one and I might do the other side too. New blades which we have in stock for some reason. Look at the wear vs the blade!
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Then I moved on to the cutter bar, removing all those tines. The nuts were stuck hard and fast, but I’ve recently bought this M12 Milwaukee 1/2 impact. It’s awesome. Such high torque in such a small package, I love it. Funny to have my tunes going through the Wonderboom and using electric battery torque drivers on this 1930s piece of equipment.
The bolts are push-fit rivet type things and most knocked out just fine, but some I had to press out with an old socket and the vice. There was only one square nut and it fit the only square socket I had. Ideal. Lastly, I marked the steel piece ‘top’ with a punch because it’ll be going to the blasters. Not a terrible evening.
The bolts are push-fit rivet type things and most knocked out just fine, but some I had to press out with an old socket and the vice. There was only one square nut and it fit the only square socket I had. Ideal. Lastly, I marked the steel piece ‘top’ with a punch because it’ll be going to the blasters. Not a terrible evening.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Not a great session. Tried levering the gib key out and got nowhere. Then I tried pouring petrol on and setting it on fire to persuade it out. That didn’t work. Then I set it on fire again with some oil to try and get some movement out of the keyway. Still nothing. I’ve resorted to drilling the key out, but I still can’t shift the wheel off the shaft. Help!
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
The wheel still won’t shift. I think I might have to make a puller and that will involve time and effort. 10pm on a Sunday is not that time.
Undeterred and willing to keep the project moving, I removed the nuts on this (clutch?) assembly. The bolts feel springy on the other side. I can’t work out how to pull this piece off either - a third roadblock. One of the studs was so badly corroded it had to be ground off, nut and all. You can see it’s the one that was sitting in the water so at least it makes sense. Hate destroying things but needs must. I’ll make a new one later.
Undeterred and willing to keep the project moving, I removed the nuts on this (clutch?) assembly. The bolts feel springy on the other side. I can’t work out how to pull this piece off either - a third roadblock. One of the studs was so badly corroded it had to be ground off, nut and all. You can see it’s the one that was sitting in the water so at least it makes sense. Hate destroying things but needs must. I’ll make a new one later.
- Messages
- 22,369
- Location
- Birmingham
Too late now, but it may be worth investing in or making a key extractor.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I followed the advice on a stationary engine page and built two different pullers out of 10mm plate, both of which moved the head, but didn’t move the taper. Heated it orange red, nothing. Drilled and tapped to make a slide puller, nothing, then I snapped a bolt in there with the impact trying to rattle it loose. Gave up and cut it off to drill out.
I’m going to make a big puller to hopefully drive the wheel off the axle.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Up at the workshop tonight. I saw this and thought I could fix it. Ten mins with a file had a 3/16w hex formed and a fibre washer seated it (I’ll find a nice copper one in time).
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Can’t beat a bit of 1930s horticultural equipment!Rustic
Also got the engine cowling apart last night. It’s been broken in a few places where someone’s probably used a steel hammer to try and get it off. I have aluminium blocks to persuade things like this off.
By doing this I could get the mag freed. It looks very old.
zeppelin builder
Member
- Messages
- 2,157
- Location
- peoples republic of scotland
ah the dreaded viliers magneto ,check between the points wire and the ht out let should read about 4k ohms if nothing its donald ducked .condensor is hidden behind the points Villiers services might be able to help with a new coil and re -magnetise the fly wheel
another option is make a total loss battery and coil system using the points as a distributor and an external coil and a battery it will run for a,good few hours before it needs charged again
some of the early villiers had long plain bush main bearings without seals therefore a realy oily 16 to 1
is needed to seal the shafts no fancy syn 2t just 1/4 pint of sae 30 or 40 works well
if you have no joy with the sparking bits i know a man who repairs magnetos
another option is make a total loss battery and coil system using the points as a distributor and an external coil and a battery it will run for a,good few hours before it needs charged again
some of the early villiers had long plain bush main bearings without seals therefore a realy oily 16 to 1
is needed to seal the shafts no fancy syn 2t just 1/4 pint of sae 30 or 40 works well
if you have no joy with the sparking bits i know a man who repairs magnetos
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I don’t know how but these followed me to work and when I left they came back shiny and clean. Punch marks, so it’s obviously been apart before.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Thank you for this.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Saw this on facebook this morning, pretty cool I thought. Then someone on the ship taught me some cool rope tricks.
Also found out that early Allen scythes were burgundy and green.
Also found out that early Allen scythes were burgundy and green.
octo0072000
Member
- Messages
- 6,013
- Location
- south yorks
standard wagen double dolly do it treble and you snap the rope
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
One a bit earlier than mine but the paint job is the same.
Only difference here is the cutter bar and gearbox, the rest is the same
Only difference here is the cutter bar and gearbox, the rest is the same
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
