Not sure what you mean? Is it not doable to grind a weld flush? Especially as it it is in a valley between the two parts with a backing piece welded behind?Because your grinding the bead away past its edges
Not sure where I put the invoice for the steel. Pretty sure it's mild steel - don't know why I would have asked for carbon steel and I recall the decision was hot or cold rolled and had a conflab with the steel people about which would suit my purpose better and went with their recommendation as I'm not conversant with the ins & outs of steels.Are you sure it's mild steel you are welding? That looks like a crack you might get when welding
Not sure what you're saying. What is LOF ThanksIts definitely not a crack. Its simply never been welded ie lack of fusion. Its technique or current. You could quench it and it wouldnt crack. Rule of thumb....straight lines are LOF.......cracks are crazy and multi-directional
Yes thats what it isNot sure what you're saying. What is LOF Thanks
Are you saying that the weld hasn't cracked, but that the filler hasn't fused adequately on one side of the join 'valley'?
What you have found is very very common. Backer or no backer is not relivent to what is occurrinf ImoNot sure what you mean? Is it not doable to grind a weld flush? Especially as it it is in a valley between the two parts with a backing piece welded behind?
Thanks, that's a lot clearer.What you have found is very very common. Backer or no backer is not relivent to what is occurrinf Imo
If you imagine the joint itself does not contain that much space for the weld to actually occupy and will not be perfect in alignment and geometry .
In theory you grind two flats cutting the bead back flush and leaving a point (theory also being perfect geometry between the two and enough space for the weld to occupy) the reality is far different though than that theory
Then you hit the peak of those two grinds and the thing will generally go to hell in a handcart. Cracks appear because in places you are actually going to thin.
The real cure is thicker parent metal (obviously downsides to that ) or fold. Failing both just put a bead in that's nice and don't hit it with the grinder.
Well firstly its 3mm sheet so 1. I should not want 2/3 material thickness as a gap !no need to beef it up imo 2mm gap between plates and bang a decent run in. I think it’s a skill problem rather than design/material. No offence intended
Your correct about hinges grinding through the weld of courseHe’s using a back strip,hence my recommendation for a 2mm gap’ plenty of room to tie into all 3 materials. I’m assuming he wants a seamless appearance so he has to grind the weld back flush, but due to lack of penetration he’s grinding through all his weld.
I've just watched a video on ceramic backing and not sure what its for/how it helps? If you've only got access to one side, you can't do the tape thing.Bit late now, next time fix in ceramic backing tiles, which allows good root formation and, a satisfactory root will allow flush (no crack) weld to face side.......