Rexvalter VF-118 lathe (was: old Myford Ml7)

[MattF]

I just have a container containing unused dregs of 10/40 motor oil, and I use that for everything. Frequent oiling is far more important than oil specifics, IMHO, provided the oil isn't too thick or thin for use.

The more you read online concerning oil, the more confusing the subject becomes. Fresh oil frequently has served me well all these years. Wiping crap off the ways etc. when it accumulates is another necessity too. Keep machinery clean.

 

[addjunkie]

When it comes to oils look at tractors....they take multiple types in one machine, engine, gesrbox hydraulics etc...or you can get universal oils.....one does everything.

No oil is bad, correct specd oil is perfect, but a good quality mineral oil wont do it any harm. I use the correct spec for my machine in The headstock, the rest gets tractor universal as i always have that. I use it for drilling, too. Paint the mill and lathe bits with it in Winter when im off to work also.

 

[DennisCA]

Well I really need the manual to get to the bottom of several questions I have, including what oil. But it has been disappointingly slow to arrive. I had hoped last friday, and then on monday, but nothing yet...

 

[DennisCA]

Finally got the manual and what a waste of good money!!! No useful info of the kind I had hoped, feels like some info is missing altogether from the damn thing, some is clearly wrong in the drawings.

 

[DennisCA]

The manual didn't tell me jack about this, but what is the purpose of the 2nd shaft?

It's not connected to any gears on the other side either, I can see the shaft ending there:

Best I can figure is that it's a power transfer and gear reducer for the high and low speeds. I assume that with the clutch to the left as in the picture, the motor drives the smaller gear to the furthest left, which then reduces to the secondary shaft and on the other side it accelerates again. And if you put the clutch to the right it does the opposite.

Based on the sizes of the gears I assume moving the clutch to the right results in higher speeds, and to the left for slower speeds. Unless I got it backwards....

 

[Dieselman 63]

You are allowed to see the odd patch, but not more than a few feet squared. My gauge is whether you can walk from one side to the other without walking sideways at some point, & also having to step over something.

If music was playing my walk across the garage would be classed as dancing

 

[DennisCA]

I need an MT2 drill chuck for the lathe since one didn't come with and it's a pretty essential piece of equipment. Any recommendations? Brands, used or new? Considering just going on ebay and getting something 2nd hand, feels better than buying a chinese chuck. I did that for my wood lathe (MT1) and it was a POS.

 

[Hood]

The manual didn't tell me jack about this, but what is the purpose of the 2nd shaft?

It's not connected to any gears on the other side either, I can see the shaft ending there:

Best I can figure is that it's a power transfer and gear reducer for the high and low speeds. I assume that with the clutch to the left as in the picture, the motor drives the smaller gear to the furthest left, which then reduces to the secondary shaft and on the other side it accelerates again. And if you put the clutch to the right it does the opposite.

Based on the sizes of the gears I assume moving the clutch to the right results in higher speeds, and to the left for slower speeds. Unless I got it backwards....

Yes, that is what it does, it is commonly called the back gear in a lathe and will allow a reduction of speed/increase in torque.

 

[Hood]

I need an MT2 drill chuck for the lathe since one didn't come with and it's a pretty essential piece of equipment. Any recommendations? Brands, used or new? Considering just going on ebay and getting something 2nd hand, feels better than buying a chinese chuck. I did that for my wood lathe (MT1) and it was a POS.

Get a keyless chuck. Rohm ones are fairly cheap/decent but there are lots of makes to choose from, even the Chinese ones I have seen/used seemed to be decent enough but........

 

[Dieselman 63]

I've had no problems with old Jacobs keyed.

 

[Hood]

Keyed chucks work great, as they have since they were invented but they are slow to operate if you are changing out drills. Probably not a massive issue for a hobby guy I suppose but the time saving and ease of use of a keyless chuck will soon make you reconsider if doing multiple drill swaps per part.

 

[Seadog]

I assume that with the clutch to the left as in the picture, the motor drives the smaller gear to the furthest left, which then reduces to the secondary shaft and on the other side it accelerates again. And if you put the clutch to the right it does the opposite.

You're correct except it functions the opposite way round. In the position shown in the photo, the pulley is locked to the spindle, so the spindle rotates at motor speed. When moved to the right , the pulley spins freely on the spindle but engages with the bull gear, which is also on splines.

 

[DennisCA]

I realized I could try the chuck in my drill press, I think it's an MT2, it's sometihng of a piece of crap too, but it's free.

I was looking at 5C Collet chucks but reading on forums it seems they aren't meant for small lathes, spindle bore diameter of 35mm and over, so with a spindle bore of 20mm they don't seem to be made for my lathe. Is there something else though for chucking small things precisely and repeatably on a smaller lathe?

 

[Perry Owens]

I use an ER32 collet chuck on my Super 7. The type that bolts to a backplate screwed to the spindle nose is the best as they have a through hole for long stock, also, as you machine the register on the mounted backplate you can get the chuck to run true. Collets are great for holding milling cutters etc.

 

[DennisCA]

That sounds like something to keep in mind for the future.

For now I made a tool wall for the lathe:

Started on the first tool holders, that's the drill press chuck:

I should've painted the walls white, makes everything brighter and makes rooms look bigger.

 

[Hood]

It probably wouldn't stay white for long anyway as it will be coolant splashed in short order, even if you are just using cutting oil rather than flood coolant.

 

[gaz1]

id advise a splash panel at back of lathe as it always gets a line of oil at back of the lathe as it spins off

 

[Turbo]

I'm not sure I would put a tool board behind a lathe, too dangerous. Scenario - you are doing a cut on a long bar on auto feed. While it's cutting you decide to get ready for the next process & without thinking you reach across the spinning bar to get the chuck off the tool board. Next thing you know you are meeting the surgeon who had the task of trying to reattach your arm after the lathe ripped it off!

But I would agree that a splashback is essential, especially given the immaculate condition of your workshop!

 

[DennisCA]

I have to say that scenario feels so much like something I would never even contemplate. I am a bit afraid of lathes and power tools and the idea of reaching over it while running makes a chill go down my spine.

As for splashing, I figured the tool wall will get splashed, so hey dual purpose...

 

[DennisCA]

Gave some more thought to a splash guard, what about a piece of polycarbonate attached to the backside of the cross slide, that way it would always travel along with the cutting action and doesn't have to be large.