- Messages
- 22,275
- Location
- Birmingham
- Thread starter rkde
- Start date
Angusdog
Well-meaning amateur
- Messages
- 724
- Location
- Wellington, NZ
Electrolysis rust removal works really well and it's cheap. As long as you can build a bath & arrange the electrodes round the parts, it's the only way to go. Attached are before and after photos of a Commer van mirror arm. The after photo shows how much the rust had eaten into the arm, but overnight and it's clean. Your only expenses are washing soda and electricity.
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
The forum time stamp says 5 mins between posts, have you been using the tardis again?
yes
After about 3 hours (or something like that)
^ good result there I hope I can get the same as I have stacks of stuff. Is there a similar thing for aluminium?
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
You put the + on some scrap steel and negative on the part you wish to clean, you add 1 table spoon of soda crystals to 4L of water in general.
I wish I had took a before photo but I will on the next parts. You can however already see how the part looks cleaner
If you look at the bar in the water you can see all the rust at the bottom in the fluid. will be pulling it out tomorrow
This is quite a good reference to soda electrolysis http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
I wish I had took a before photo but I will on the next parts. You can however already see how the part looks cleaner
If you look at the bar in the water you can see all the rust at the bottom in the fluid. will be pulling it out tomorrow
This is quite a good reference to soda electrolysis http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
Not sure on the actual current which is passing through. But there is 12v and about 10amps
Took the part out yesterday, gave it a good clean but it needed a little longer so it is back in at the moment, this time I put metal all around the tub and floated the part, this seams to have a better effect. Will get some photos up a soon as I can. Then I will on the next part do a before and after shot
Took the part out yesterday, gave it a good clean but it needed a little longer so it is back in at the moment, this time I put metal all around the tub and floated the part, this seams to have a better effect. Will get some photos up a soon as I can. Then I will on the next part do a before and after shot
Angusdog
Well-meaning amateur
- Messages
- 724
- Location
- Wellington, NZ
I just used a small car battery charger. The only downside is making a bath big enough for the part and it's 'line of sight' between the anode and the part so it won't do inside voids.
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
So 48 hours later and the part has been removed from the tank and has been washed off. This was red rusty and flaking now it is all black and back to the base material. Very happy with the outcome. I am looking forward to get some paint on it to protect it forever
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
Yes still got the battery box, I was about to throw it out for scrap. PM me if you want me to put it aside
Been filling and sanding for many hours and there is loads of work left however the shape of the roof is starting to come together.
Also Been moulding in a set of orranje scuttle vents which I will completely blend in to make them one part, also I have modified the fixings for the scuttle and a-panels which means I can weld them together and then remove the side vents and panel join.
Been filling and sanding for many hours and there is loads of work left however the shape of the roof is starting to come together.
Also Been moulding in a set of orranje scuttle vents which I will completely blend in to make them one part, also I have modified the fixings for the scuttle and a-panels which means I can weld them together and then remove the side vents and panel join.
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
Spent today out and about mostly, managed to spend a few hours in mini matts scrap yard finding bits for both my MG and the mini.
Over the last few weeks I have been thinking about the boot I had made and the fact with the car slammed on the floor the boot hatch will only open to my chest which makes this almost useless so I was left with the decision to either weld shut the boot or find another way of making a boot.
I decided that I would look into the convertible boot as a fitting, I spent some time at the himley hall show and also spent time talking with matt again. We both thought it could be done quite easily.
I cut the sections I needed from the back of a crash damaged mini and brought them back to the unit with me.
Firstly I spot welded the top section of the old tailgate in place and roughly chopped the bottom section off, I will be rebuilding so will need to trim it back further once I have the seal from the dealer.
I then removed the hinge brackets from the rear end I chopped out and welded them to the car, this was quite easy to locate and fix in place.
Next I had to modify the strap and catch bracket as the rear of the convertible is a different shape, so after modification it was welded in and it works well
New convertible boot fitted and I like it a lot
Over the last few weeks I have been thinking about the boot I had made and the fact with the car slammed on the floor the boot hatch will only open to my chest which makes this almost useless so I was left with the decision to either weld shut the boot or find another way of making a boot.
I decided that I would look into the convertible boot as a fitting, I spent some time at the himley hall show and also spent time talking with matt again. We both thought it could be done quite easily.
I cut the sections I needed from the back of a crash damaged mini and brought them back to the unit with me.
Firstly I spot welded the top section of the old tailgate in place and roughly chopped the bottom section off, I will be rebuilding so will need to trim it back further once I have the seal from the dealer.
I then removed the hinge brackets from the rear end I chopped out and welded them to the car, this was quite easy to locate and fix in place.
Next I had to modify the strap and catch bracket as the rear of the convertible is a different shape, so after modification it was welded in and it works well
New convertible boot fitted and I like it a lot
blackolive (Ste)
Member
- Messages
- 1,349
- Location
- Chorley
looking superb, we've a cooper D and was going to build a trailer for it with another mini back end, but no need for it now and too much else onatm
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
To support the convertible boot and also make the lower half of the chopped tailgate fit I decided to add a section of 25*25 box section. Also the rear shape of the convertible is different to the hatch so this also helped to hold the shape and give it strength.
I cut several slots into the box in order to bend it around the gentle curve and then welded it into the car
Also I though it was about time to put the catch on to hold the boot in place, this has lots of adjustment so was a nice easy fit and I had learnt the best way to install it from the other side. Now the tailgate sits and moves as it should, very happy with the outcome
Not quite in order but I welded a sheet of steel over the opening of the top half of the tailgate. Now need to buy lots of flap discs and go round the whole car and clean up every weld and add a lip for the boot seal.
I cut several slots into the box in order to bend it around the gentle curve and then welded it into the car
Also I though it was about time to put the catch on to hold the boot in place, this has lots of adjustment so was a nice easy fit and I had learnt the best way to install it from the other side. Now the tailgate sits and moves as it should, very happy with the outcome
Not quite in order but I welded a sheet of steel over the opening of the top half of the tailgate. Now need to buy lots of flap discs and go round the whole car and clean up every weld and add a lip for the boot seal.
