Onthespotwelding
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I can see someone getting a new compressor this year 
Go on treat yourself!
Go on treat yourself!
- Thread starter GRW
- Start date
This IS my new compressorI can see someone getting a new compressor this year
Go on treat yourself!
(50yo in November - new to me)
Onthespotwelding
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I would describe that as vintage!
brightspark
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as long as it suits the needs it will be running for longer than a new one
So far (I've only been checking it over, new oil, the internal clean, fix a wobbly motor pulley, straighten up the guard a bit, and set up ad fit a new On/Off Switch box onto the OE Danfoss Start/Stop)..... its lovely thing.
Solid, starts up and runs with a low frequency unobtrusive chuffing, and gets from totally empty to 10-bar in under 13-min (which seems OK????).
I'm going to fit a Regulated pair of outlets off the top outlets, & a full-bore outlets off the cylinder (both with inline Valves and filters).
Fingers crossed it'll cope with any tools and jobs I'll need, and keep on plodding for another 50-years and see me out
A high quality classic lump of engineering
Onthespotwelding
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The IR30.The compressor or yourself?
(I'm a bit older but it's open to debate if I'm as well made
)crikey - when I moved in to my last house in 2003 ish, the previous occupant left his Broom and Wade compressor and vertical tank, complete with some very dodgy pipework connections. Tank was plated as from 1970 . . . I didn't fancy being too near it after 35 yrs, so flogged it on.
Which leads me to think about my "new" little compressor I bought in Germany (as they were so much cheaper than here for the same thing) . . .in 1999 . . . so its already 22 yrs old . . .
Which leads me to think about my "new" little compressor I bought in Germany (as they were so much cheaper than here for the same thing) . . .in 1999 . . . so its already 22 yrs old . . .
I think I trust an older solid one like my 1972 one more than I'd trust a 2nd-hand one 30-years younger.
I think the older stuff was over-engineered and built "to be on the safe side" with reliability and quality at the core.... and later stuff us getting increasingly " built to a price" and then onto "with built-in obsolescence" (to drive the punter to get to scrap it and buy another).
Who'd want to risk buying a used Hybrid Car when it's over (say) 5-years-old?
Alan Reynolds
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I was waiting for someone to say that,
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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- Going Away.
Wash out as much as you can.
Make a wire brush on a bent handle and a scraper. Work as much as you can out.
Pour in a bottle or two of hamerite rust killer. It converts the red oxide to black oxide and seals it.
Pour in a can of metal paint. Rotate and turn the receivers to allow the liquid paint to coat every part.
Assemble and use.
Make a wire brush on a bent handle and a scraper. Work as much as you can out.
Pour in a bottle or two of hamerite rust killer. It converts the red oxide to black oxide and seals it.
Pour in a can of metal paint. Rotate and turn the receivers to allow the liquid paint to coat every part.
Assemble and use.
I felt 35 yrs (in my case) was a lot of time for a drain valve to possibly not be opened much, and a lot of rust potentially made . . . 1/4" steel from 1970 or 2021 still only starts off as 1/4" thickness . . . but 35 yrs on, with unknown amounts of corrosion, it was an unknown thickness and I didn't fancy being offered the explosive opportunity to measure it
Modern British standards require an allowance for corrosion, European standards require an internal coating. A modern receiver itself will be good as it ought to be - admittedly the as-cheap-as-it-can-be-made compressor and motor bolted on top of it . . .
Problem with an old receiver is not knowing how it was treated - and nothing you tip in it will penetrate and convert all the rust, no coating will totally encapsulate it - it will keep corroding under the converted layer, under the coating, and crack if off - and nothing tipped in it puts back the lost wall thickness.
Having said all that, I believe actual failures are pretty rare.
brightspark
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they pinhole 1st if they were weak so give you good noticeI
Having said all that, I believe actual failures are pretty rare.
i tested a 1 gallon oilcan and pressurized it the crimped end blew out at 50 psi and that was square
Luckily cos this is old - it has a 2" threaded Boss in either side of the Reciever, so you can see inside.I felt 35 yrs (in my case) was a lot of time for a drain valve to possibly not be opened much, and a lot of rust potentially made . . . 1/4" steel from 1970 or 2021 still only starts off as 1/4" thickness . . . but 35 yrs on, with unknown amounts of corrosion, it was an unknown thickness and I didn't fancy being offered the explosive opportunity to measure it
Modern British standards require an allowance for corrosion, European standards require an internal coating. A modern receiver itself will be good as it ought to be - admittedly the as-cheap-as-it-can-be-made compressor and motor bolted on top of it . . .
Problem with an old receiver is not knowing how it was treated - and nothing you tip in it will penetrate and convert all the rust, no coating will totally encapsulate it - it will keep corroding under the converted layer, under the coating, and crack if off - and nothing tipped in it puts back the lost wall thickness.
Having said all that, I believe actual failures are pretty rare.
Yes there's corrosion... and a scary amount of crud removed says no-ones spent much time draining this one either.
Once cleaned out, I was pleasantly surprised with how solid it all looked - and rapping the cylinder with a spanner has the same reassuring ring of healthy steel that the sides, ends and top of the Reciever has.
There's no guarantees of course, but the indications so far are that it's all sound
