addjunkie
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Get up, tube of sticks like or similar, on the backs knock them back in.
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addjunkie
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The insulated boards I used 30mm stops cold spots where the roof timbers are too.
droopsnoot
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I was hoping it would be the other way round - more insulation might lead to keeping more heat out in summer, rather than in.
I was working on needing to leave 50mm air gap inside the tiles / membrane level. Timbers are 100mm deep, so I can only do 50mm unless I bring the ceiling inwards or send the tiles outwards. If I have the roof off and add 50mm to it, I expect I'll need permission because it'll end up higher than before, and it's a massive job I'll have to pay someone to do.
Anything will be better than I have now, of course.
addjunkie
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I left an inch on mine, so 70 or 75 mil boards, 30 mil insulated plaster board give you 100 mm of kingspan etc. Its a thankless task but well worth doing. Mathematically it makes no odds if the insulation is stopping heat going out or in. If you google heat transfer through a composite wall, the formula to work it out ( if your bored) is simple enough.
I would hire or buy a tower, my days of working from a ladder at height are well and truely over after a friend fell when a ladder slipped beneath him he survived and recovered but is not the same person. Personaly I would buy as you only have to transport it once and it is always there when needed.
CornishPete
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It is fairly common for dry verges to become dislodged like this, it doesn't mean they weren't installed correctly it's just the wind has been too strong for the manufacturers fixing method! The bottom of each one slides over a little plastic tab on the top of the previous one so to fix it "properly" they'd need to all come off and refix starting at the bottom. Access is the biggest problem. With a full scaffold and all the prep done, which presumably is the case here, it's a 10 minute job to fix them on, off a ladder probably a lot slower! A £261 scaffold might not be the sturdiest erection and would probably only be 4' wide so need moving a few times.
Most people don't want the expense of scaffolding and redoing, with no guarantee it won't happen again next storm so I end up just refixing the ones hanging off.
I've fixed many off a ladder with the ladder leaning against the edge of the roof, just needs twisting away from usual perpendicular to match the roof pitch. Probably not advised by HSE but I've never found it an issue. The step in the tiles stop it sliding "up" the roof as it were, and if ladder is tied off properly shouldn't be able to go anywhere. Plastic cladding would probably be fine but probably mark too and I think without a stand off you'd struggle to do any work with the ladder under the overhang, effectively leaning backwards, it looks fine from the ground but it's very difficult up there!!
As for re-fixing, simply sticking to the tile with one of these super sealant (CT1, ob1, stixall etc) would probably be ok but the end tiles could come loose in the same way! The dry verge is there to hold the tile down not the other way round! I usually pilot trill a hole and use an anthracite poly-top nail (used for fixing uPVC soffits and fascias) so you can't really see it unless you look! Hope this helps!
Most people don't want the expense of scaffolding and redoing, with no guarantee it won't happen again next storm so I end up just refixing the ones hanging off.
I've fixed many off a ladder with the ladder leaning against the edge of the roof, just needs twisting away from usual perpendicular to match the roof pitch. Probably not advised by HSE but I've never found it an issue. The step in the tiles stop it sliding "up" the roof as it were, and if ladder is tied off properly shouldn't be able to go anywhere. Plastic cladding would probably be fine but probably mark too and I think without a stand off you'd struggle to do any work with the ladder under the overhang, effectively leaning backwards, it looks fine from the ground but it's very difficult up there!!
As for re-fixing, simply sticking to the tile with one of these super sealant (CT1, ob1, stixall etc) would probably be ok but the end tiles could come loose in the same way! The dry verge is there to hold the tile down not the other way round! I usually pilot trill a hole and use an anthracite poly-top nail (used for fixing uPVC soffits and fascias) so you can't really see it unless you look! Hope this helps!
gaz1
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for what its worth just do inside
that means rip off all of the plasterboard when its spring and start there
fill the voids up with what you can either 3-4" insulation or use the roll it makes no difference
add a further 1"-2" overboard to get 4" of insulation cover or 5" insulation cover
your choice with the boards insulated plasterboards do have an expense to them but insulation and plasterboards have there own costs as you need to support the 1-2" insulation board a couple of screws will hold the board where you want while you screw the plasterboard on top
hitting the wood is a pain to do
roof trusses external is planning permission as you are highering the roof area its not worth going down that route unless its a whole roof strip off and refit
for speed you leave the original trusses within and fit at side of them or rip the lot out
any heat into the building will compound where its the highest point and then becomes a sauna as no where to go red hot days on a fully insulated building well its keep your curtains closed then find the coolest spot in the house to get any sleep
find my post on insulation that had the same issue and did become a sauna even with the curtains closed only place to sleep was in the lounge
that means rip off all of the plasterboard when its spring and start there
fill the voids up with what you can either 3-4" insulation or use the roll it makes no difference
add a further 1"-2" overboard to get 4" of insulation cover or 5" insulation cover
your choice with the boards insulated plasterboards do have an expense to them but insulation and plasterboards have there own costs as you need to support the 1-2" insulation board a couple of screws will hold the board where you want while you screw the plasterboard on top
hitting the wood is a pain to do
roof trusses external is planning permission as you are highering the roof area its not worth going down that route unless its a whole roof strip off and refit
for speed you leave the original trusses within and fit at side of them or rip the lot out
any heat into the building will compound where its the highest point and then becomes a sauna as no where to go red hot days on a fully insulated building well its keep your curtains closed then find the coolest spot in the house to get any sleep
find my post on insulation that had the same issue and did become a sauna even with the curtains closed only place to sleep was in the lounge
BrokenBiker
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Triple Combination Ladders - 3 Section Trade Master EN131 Professional Aluminium | eBay
3 Section Trade Master Combination Ladders - EN131 Professional. Integral stabiliser bar, with hard wearing, non-slip rubber feet ensures maximum grip at the base – a superb safety feature which is essential for any trade ladder to comply with EN131 safety standards.
www.ebay.co.uk
Something like a Niftylift 90 would be ideal for that and they are quite reasonable on a day hire. Easy to move the platform as you work your way down the tile line.
droopsnoot
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I've no doubt they were installed well, I've found a quote for something that suggests they have been in place since before 1997 though I'm not certain about exactly when, it's just annoying that they've started to have problems when it's down to me to fix it. I did consider sticking them back in place with something like CT1, or maybe just using a black screw so that there are two screws holding them rather than just the one at one end. Talking about that side of the house, though, does remind me that there's an unused area where I could probably store a scaffolding tower in pieces, as long as the pieces are light enough for me to move them around by hand.
I can't picture what you mean about putting a ladder up against the roof - I'm not sure that's possible because there's only a small distance on that side of the house before it drops away about 5' into next door's property. I have all sorts of access issues - the flower border and lawn at the front, and a section at the rear where I could really do with getting up to re-attached the sealing tape between the lean-to and the back of the house, but there is no flat space to put the ladder unless I lean it against an aluminium greenhouse, which I don't think is a good idea.
Triple Combination Ladders - 3 Section Trade Master EN131 Professional Aluminium | eBay
3 Section Trade Master Combination Ladders - EN131 Professional. Integral stabiliser bar, with hard wearing, non-slip rubber feet ensures maximum grip at the base – a superb safety feature which is essential for any trade ladder to comply with EN131 safety standards.www.ebay.co.uk
I can't look at the photo of that guy standing above what looks like a pivot point on that web site. I'm not sure I'd be more confident on those than just on the normal ladder. and the concrete edging blocks around the front border probably would stop it getting close.
droopsnoot
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Cheers. I'm sure I'll be posting again if I get around to doing this. I'll have a dig around for your other post.
BrokenBiker
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standing above the 'pivot' point is perfectly safe as the point that the ladder would actually pivot is the point where the rear feet touch the floor (if you were stood near the top, facing towards the ladder). if you dont go outside the footprint of the ladder, physics keeps you safe. the point you refer to is just the hinge to allow the feet to be spread.
brightspark
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i work of towers high ladders scissor lifts and cherry pickers and great heights but those 3 way ladders i wouldnt work on one above the a frame point
if you dont feel safe on them i dont do it
BrokenBiker
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ive used a 5 meter version to get up onto 3.5m containers...granted the ones we have are well over 4x the price of the ebay one but seem sturdy. that said, im always tied onto an inertia reel thats attached to the hook block of a 200 ton crane when we do that job so theres that for a safety factor i guess.i work of towers high ladders scissor lifts and cherry pickers and great heights but those 3 way ladders i wouldnt work on one above the a frame point
redlig
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redlig
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Simple .
I used a ladder to get on the roof of daughters house (in Llanboidy @sako243 ) Anyway from the back, on the raised lawn it didn't feel too bad, but once up amongst the crumbly ornamental ridge tiles, with an extra 15 feet down onto the road the fear started to grip me. Fitted the aerial and got off pronto..Not quite the encouragement to "have a go, what's the worst that can happen" I was expecting from this site.
My Dad would, and did, quite happily scale a ladder to the apex of the roof, and then stand on the ridge tiles to adjust the TV aerial when it needed it. I struggled to watch him. Scaffold tower is a good idea, but storage would be an issue at home - I've already got some stuff that very rarely gets used, and I think that would be too much.
And then I look on FB Marketplace, and a local place has a new 6' x 4' x 15' scaffold tower with 21' working height for £285 delivered. Although there are lots of very similar listings, so I'm not sure whether they're real.
