Sealey trips out

[mike 109444]

Cret the reason you are looking for something about 2lts is because you fitted a 2lt bottle and it worked. Could it be you need (if every thing else does not fix it) a smaller amount? Try a 500ml bottle and if that works try smaller, there are smaller pop bottles ( so the wife informes me, had to explain why i needed info to her!) Then if you get it down to a smaller size will open up your options such as painball canister? keep up the good work your getting there and if nowt else you are getting to know a lot about Sealey compressors!!

 

[Cret]

Thanks Mike

Yes I'd already thought of that issue of actual required volume but I'm guessing you'd not seen that:

I suppose before doing anything like that (if I end up having to anyway) I should try smaller vessels to see what's actually needed in terms of volume, so that the corresponding pipework wouldn't be miles longer than it actually needs to be.

Appreciate the thought though. Simon at Sealey said he'd post out the new switch/unloader today so if I'm mega lucky it might come tomorrow, but more likely Monday or Tuesday, then I'll see how I get on with that.

Aside from anything else I just can't wait to get this bloody thing fixed, as I don't have a lot of floorspace in my garage as there are workbenches on all walls, and I'm in the middle of rebuilding my bike too so it's carnage at present.

 

[the snooper]

The delay valve is what you have in the pressure switch, it remains open until the pressure reaches a pre-set level.

assuming it has this type fitted then a simple test would be unplug from the mains turn machine on at pressure switch and turn the pump by hand it should hiss from the delay valve as you wouldnt get enough pressure up by hand to close it

 

[the snooper]

this is the type of valve that rtbcomp mentions

 

[rtbcomp]

Is that the type that fits in the pressure switch? (judging by the connections). The one I meant looks like a safety valve, but it works in reverse. It just screws into a port, there are no external pipes connected to it.

 

[the snooper]

no thats an external type i have one of those on mine its mounted on the non return valve delivery pipe side of course

 

[Cret]

Update - got the new pressure switch/control box and fitted it and we're still in the same situation.

I'm not surprised, but I am of course woefully disappointed to STILL be no closer to having the bloody hunk of crap being useful instead of a hindrance and obstacle that takes up too much floor space.

 

[the snooper]

wait untill summer, warmer weather it will have repaired its self

 

[rtbcomp]

A more permanent version of the Coke bottle bodge is called for I think.

 

[the snooper]

or one of the valves i posted

 

[rtbcomp]

Yes - I reckon you could fit one in the boss on the intercooler.

 

[the snooper]

the problem here i would say was the temp if he warms it up a little to try it it will probably be ok but having said that its not ideal to do that each time you want to use it in cold weather.
it also shows the pump is in good condition as it is producing enough air to fill the delivery pipe very quickly which then stops it starting.

 

[Cret]

wait untill summer, warmer weather it will have repaired its self

Don't get me started on that subject. I didn't spend £550 for a machine that 'might' work for 3-6 months of the year when it's not even proper cold when it fails anyway. And that doesn't explain why they work for other people, plus Sealey would have been dragged through court enough times to be made to stop selling if brand new machines could barely ever function.

That's not to be in denial that cold can cause a problematic machine to be worse though!

A more permanent version of the Coke bottle bodge is called for I think.

I'll be on the phone to Sealey again tomorrow to pick their brains. I doubt that's a fix I can do either cheaply or without a lot of research to do it safely, and it's just not acceptable.

or one of the valves i posted

Thinking about that, if the valve I just replaced is already doing the same thing, would this really help anyway? Surely the valve is doing what it's meant to, and replacing it has proved that, & highlighted the fault lies elsewhere? Or is that valve different in terms of being able to set it at a higher pressure level before it shuts etc?

I would actually get one and see how I could plumb it in, but I'm getting increasingly ****ed off now that I've spent this amount of time troubleshooting an expensive new machine and replaced a load of parts and still non the wiser.

Does this not likely mean that the motor for the want of a better phrase is just, well, ****?

 

[the snooper]

Thinking about that, if the valve I just replaced is already doing the same thing, would this really help anyway? Surely the valve is doing what it's meant to, and replacing it has proved that, & highlighted the fault lies elsewhere? Or is that valve different in terms of being able to set it at a higher pressure level before it shuts etc?


that valve is different the valve you fitted unloads the delivery pipe the valve i posted lets air escape until the pump is upto speed

 

[Cret]

the problem here i would say was the temp if he warms it up a little to try it it will probably be ok but having said that its not ideal to do that each time you want to use it in cold weather.
it also shows the pump is in good condition as it is producing enough air to fill the delivery pipe very quickly which then stops it starting.

If it was a 10 year old machine I'd got for a crate of beer I could live with that and would be happy enough to install a tap to enable easy starts, that I'd then shut when it's running. No way Jose on a new machine though.

I did actually try warming it up the other week but it still wouldn't start after quite some time with hot air gun on the crankcase/barrel/head, moving it around to warm the oil & parts. It didn't help.

I'm more or less convinced it's the motor in some respect.
Now I mention it though, is it possible that the extra va va voom from the start capacitor isn't getting to the motor for some reason??

Can't recall if that's been suggested. There was all the talk about the capacitors themselves, but what if the connection from start capacitor to motor is faulty. Is it possible it would manage to start up ok without it when no pressure in the tank, but with increased load of pressure in the tank AND being cold that it can't manage without the extra starting power?

Just a thought, and sorry if someone has already covered this. I've lost track at this stage.

And sorry to the OP as well for the mother of all thread hijacks, even if it is relevant. Wonder if he got his sorted.....

 

[Cret]

that valve is different the valve you fitted unloads the delivery pipe the valve i posted lets air escape until the pump is upto speed

Ok cheers for clarifying. Might do the trick then if it really really comes down to it. How is it physically triggered to close though if that's not a stupid question (ie I realise you've said once the pump is up to speed but by what means does the valve 'determine' that?).

 

[the snooper]

it closes when the volume of air is enough to close it

 

[eil]

In post 162 you have what looks like a 3/8" plug in the middle of the aftercooler you could take that off and stick a ball valve on a nipple there to try and see if it does relive the pressure correctly when stopped.
The testing of the caps has been mentioned and can give you some pointers if you would like.

 

[the snooper]

the caps have been replace with no effect

 

[eil]

the caps have been replace with no effect

Yes thats true enough,but it doesn't mean that the start cap is in circuit every time at rest and doesn't mean that it drops out of circuit every time when its started, ie centrifugal switch operating as it should.