Sealey trips out

[Cret]

I wouldn't say no to a 916

Love the ktm though, it's the best bike I've ever had although it's horribly high strung, hence current rebuild.

 

[tigler]

Well you live in a good place for a 916 !! The TT is one biking thing I've been to, must rectify that one of these years !

 

[bigtip]

1) i think you need to check that the centrifugal switch circuit is working ok. i don't disagree that new caps are **** and may well be a problem but a moving part is always worth checking out as well.

problem could be a result of a start cap not being switched in, or being switched in but not working but the slow start and hum could also point to a supply problem. if so, don't ask me why it worked ok from april til august, maybe you moved it to a different supply point or something..

2) changing the mcb to 20a would make no real difference to the supply capabilities. makes no difference to the overall flow through the cable and volt drop. and it could cause safety problems if the circuit isn't ok with 20amps.

3) this is what i would do; disconnect the compressor, drag it to the house and plug it in to your cooker socket (if you've got one of those cooker switch/socket units) and see if that helps it. it might be a right pain but you will then be in a position to say it is fairly definitely not a problem with the supply, that's one thing properly ticked off the list.

 

[Cret]

1) Good point. Hadn't even considered that if I'm honest. Are they easy to get to on these things, and will there be an obvious means of knowing if it works or not? I presume it won't be possible to watch it trying to do its thing when partially dismantled, but what about checking the power feed to the caps to see if they get a source? Would that suffice to tell if the switch is ok?

2) Ok, thanks. I don't mind bending safety rules a little for the purpose of carrying out tests etc, but I don't want to take the **** with anything or create any serious risks.

3) Cooker doesn't have a socket as it's hard wired in. Has its own cooker switch as it were but not an actual socket. Instead of this I could always run a short length of 2.5mm twin & earth from the MCB direct to the compressor. This would reduce the wiring length from maybe 5-6m to 2m but apart from that would be exactly the same. I don't think the existing wiring length is bad but I'm no expert!

Cheers

 

[mike 109444]

I have been following this post with intrest. I have not seen you mention if the motor ( with belt removed) turns reasonably freely as like the pump does? As you suspect temp to be playing a part in this fault have you tried before starting (from cold) running a hair dryer on the motor and it's bearings till the whole motor feel warm/hot, may take a while as the motor will soakup the heat well. You could also try hair dryer on the capacitors as well. This won't cost you anything (just hair dryer running!).
ps avoid useing heatgun unless watching carefully cos you may burn cap or windings of motor !

 

[mike 109444]

pps If the warming works could be the centrifugal switch if mechanical has grease on it's mechanisiam which with cold weather would be slow/stickey to operate. Just some thoughts while you are waiting for some poor Chinees child to put down the pair of trainers he is making and go and knockout your capacitors............ Yet another thought could be like fault I have had on mig welder see pic below

 

[Cret]

I have been following this post with intrest. I have not seen you mention if the motor ( with belt removed) turns reasonably freely as like the pump does?

3) Motor starts very easily if the belt is removed

Cheers for the suggestions Mike. I will try warming it to see if this helps as it's an easy thing to try.

What I'd like to try this weekend is to checkout the centrifugal switch now it's on my mind and see if all seems ok. Need to have a closer look at the motor to see how/where that's accessed since the sealey exploded diagram just shows the motor as a single item.

 

[eil]

1) Good point. Hadn't even considered that if I'm honest. Are they easy to get to on these things, and will there be an obvious means of knowing if it works or not? I presume it won't be possible to watch it trying to do its thing when partially dismantled, but what about checking the power feed to the caps to see if they get a source? Would that suffice to tell if the switch is ok?

Have a look at post 89.
Don't start taking things apart just yet just hold fire and wait for Mr postman.

 

[Cret]

Fair enough - you're probably right. Do you have any idea how impatient I am though?

And I'm still waiting for the postman to deliver some anodising dye I bought over a fortnight ago so I'm not overly optimistic for a fast delivery right now...

 

[Robotstar5]

And I'm still waiting for the postman to deliver some anodising dye I bought over a fortnight ago so I'm not overly optimistic for a fast delivery right now...

Haven't you had poor sea conditions recently?

 

[mike 109444]

Robotstar5 Your not working partime for one of the parcel companies are you cos that sounds a bit like one of there excuses

 

[Robotstar5]

Robotstar5 Your not working partime for one of the parcel companies are you cos that sounds a bit like one of there excuses

No, I've got better things to do with my spare time, like being on here

 

[Cret]

Nah, he's right though - we've had all sorts of aggro lately here with the ferries not running a lot due to delayed repairs rendering them incapable of handling a lot of the weather this time of year. Some stuff comes by plane but a lot by boat (along with our food and stuff!!!).

 

[bigtip]

let us know if you get any further with your diagnoses alfapat and cret

 

[Cret]

Certainly will do.

I'm going to have to wait a bit for the new caps to arrive I think as at least one is coming from China. It has been posted so probably a couple of weeks wait I guess.

Annoying as there was nothing obvious on Amazon to tell me that when I bought it and I kinda wanted one RIGHT NOW!!!!

 

[Cret]

New run cap came today - doesnt seem to have helped.
Will be a while before the start one gets here though...

 

[Cret]

Received the start capacitor today!

One question before I fit it - it doesn't have a resistor across the terminals (presumably because it's actually got wires, not terminals as such.

Does it strictly need one, and what will be different in terms of compressor behaviour potentially if I fit the new one without swapping the resistor over from the old one?

Thanks!

 

[tigler]

Absolutely no effect on the way the motor runs, it's only there to bleed the charge off the cap when it's turned off. You can put the resistor back anytime.

 

[Cret]

Cheers. I actually fitted the new one anyway as I had a vague idea someone had said that previously.

Well, the big question, has it cured all???
No, but it certainly seems to managing a lot more successful starts. Ie out of a dozen or so startups which then were left to run anything from 5-10 seconds or so, it only failed about 3 times. Previously once it refuses to start once, it would tend to continue tripping the overload trip until the tank was drained.

Possibly this is subjective so it's too early to say but it seems to have helped if not cured the issue completely. I'm skeptical though about this I have to say.

I will try to get some use from it and see how it behaves then update on here. Clearly something is not right still, so it may well just be the case that it decided to behave tonight only.

If it turns out still to be crap, I might check the centrifugal switch. Still need to swap out the MCB for a C rated one in case that makes any difference.

May try a lighter oil in case that helps but I've no idea what would be suitable and safe for the machine. Any suggestions?

Also, I may leave it running with the outlet open for a bit to run it in a bit more.

If all else fails, annoying as it may be, I may fit a tap between check valve and unloader so it can begin open, then close once at speed.

Thanks though Sealey for making something so expensive which took me ages to save for, that doesn't even work.

 

[tigler]

Oil wise use an SAE20 compressor oil. This one really has me intrigued, if only you were closer and in the UK I'd be inclined to pay a visit to sort it out !!