henry Kadzielski
Member
- Messages
- 1,214
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
^^^ We have all done things to ourselves without knowing, and thus can't see the forrest for the trees
- Thread starter auswelder
- Start date
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
- Messages
- 3,966
- Location
- UK, Cannock
Jack,
I’ll say this once more because I genuinely hate seeing people struggle. Please just do as I ask and I’m sure we can get you up and running. Read everything that I write properly as I get the impression that you’ve already got pre-conceived ideas and decided that what I’m asking you to check is not right (based on the fact that I asked you to double check on the rollers umpteen posts ago and it’s only just now that you have realised that they were in the wrong way round)
Please do the following....
1) Disconnect the Kemppi torch.
2) remove the brass carpilary tube from inside the Euro Block. It’s a small brass tube about 75mm long
3) double check that the rollers show 1.2A on the face of the roller which you are looking at when they are in position to use.
4) put the tension arms down to fix the 2 flat rollers in position and wind the tension arms until it gets to about 2-2.5 on the gauge
5) make sure that the liner in your Kemppi torch (the hot end with the brass spiral on) is fitted right up to the back of the contact tip.
6) Get some old non Kemppi Teflon liner off any other torch you have and cut a piece to suit to go in replacement of the brass carpilary tube. Please don’t Rush this part as it’s very important, the front end of the liner that you have cut should be as close as is possible to the back end of the Kemppi torch when the torch is screwed onto the Euro Block fully and the other end of the liner should sit just off the rollers. As close as possible but not so close that the rollers will crush it. Please use a sharp blade to cut this liner not a pair of snips.
Then....do a master reset so that we know that all of the sub settings are back to factory default. The only small
Issue is that it will also change the language to German, but we can easily change it back to English.
To do a master reset...
Press up arrow the button on the furthest right of the front panel and the mode button together. Keep them pressed together for around 7 seconds. Do not release them until you see Master Reset displayed in the screen. You can then loose the buttons
Change the language back to English....
Press the button with the up arrow on the furthest right side again, this will take you into a back ground menu. Press the same button again until you can see “extras”, when you see extras, press the button that has a picture of a gas bottle on it and press until you see displayed “Sprache/language” then press the up arrow and down arrow together. It will then display 0=Deutch. You can then press the gas bottle button until is says 1=English. Then press the button that you wouldn press for choosing the wire diameter. (It has end wrote above it) press this button once more and then you should be back at the normal welding menu.
Once you have done all of this,
(Assuming that you are using 1.2mm 5356 wire) out of interest what is wrote on the data sticker of your wire??
Press the mode button until you see Pulse. (Also check to see if you can see manual) then in Pulse mode set the wire to AlMg 5 the diameter to 1.2 and the gas to 100%Ar
The knob on the right should be in the neutral position and the LED should be at 12 o’clock
Get some 3mm scrap, set the material thickness on the machine to about 3-4mm, then weld. Turn the knob on the right towards the left until the wire is sitting nicely off the weld pool. Should be about 1-2mm distance and you should hear the occasional crackle but have very little spatter.
Then let me know how you have got on. Once you have done this and are happy I’ll show you how to get some nice results on TwinPulse
I’ll say this once more because I genuinely hate seeing people struggle. Please just do as I ask and I’m sure we can get you up and running. Read everything that I write properly as I get the impression that you’ve already got pre-conceived ideas and decided that what I’m asking you to check is not right (based on the fact that I asked you to double check on the rollers umpteen posts ago and it’s only just now that you have realised that they were in the wrong way round)
Please do the following....
1) Disconnect the Kemppi torch.
2) remove the brass carpilary tube from inside the Euro Block. It’s a small brass tube about 75mm long
3) double check that the rollers show 1.2A on the face of the roller which you are looking at when they are in position to use.
4) put the tension arms down to fix the 2 flat rollers in position and wind the tension arms until it gets to about 2-2.5 on the gauge
5) make sure that the liner in your Kemppi torch (the hot end with the brass spiral on) is fitted right up to the back of the contact tip.
6) Get some old non Kemppi Teflon liner off any other torch you have and cut a piece to suit to go in replacement of the brass carpilary tube. Please don’t Rush this part as it’s very important, the front end of the liner that you have cut should be as close as is possible to the back end of the Kemppi torch when the torch is screwed onto the Euro Block fully and the other end of the liner should sit just off the rollers. As close as possible but not so close that the rollers will crush it. Please use a sharp blade to cut this liner not a pair of snips.
Then....do a master reset so that we know that all of the sub settings are back to factory default. The only small
Issue is that it will also change the language to German, but we can easily change it back to English.
To do a master reset...
Press up arrow the button on the furthest right of the front panel and the mode button together. Keep them pressed together for around 7 seconds. Do not release them until you see Master Reset displayed in the screen. You can then loose the buttons
Change the language back to English....
Press the button with the up arrow on the furthest right side again, this will take you into a back ground menu. Press the same button again until you can see “extras”, when you see extras, press the button that has a picture of a gas bottle on it and press until you see displayed “Sprache/language” then press the up arrow and down arrow together. It will then display 0=Deutch. You can then press the gas bottle button until is says 1=English. Then press the button that you wouldn press for choosing the wire diameter. (It has end wrote above it) press this button once more and then you should be back at the normal welding menu.
Once you have done all of this,
(Assuming that you are using 1.2mm 5356 wire) out of interest what is wrote on the data sticker of your wire??
Press the mode button until you see Pulse. (Also check to see if you can see manual) then in Pulse mode set the wire to AlMg 5 the diameter to 1.2 and the gas to 100%Ar
The knob on the right should be in the neutral position and the LED should be at 12 o’clock
Get some 3mm scrap, set the material thickness on the machine to about 3-4mm, then weld. Turn the knob on the right towards the left until the wire is sitting nicely off the weld pool. Should be about 1-2mm distance and you should hear the occasional crackle but have very little spatter.
Then let me know how you have got on. Once you have done this and are happy I’ll show you how to get some nice results on TwinPulse
bwservices
Member
- Messages
- 393
- Location
- Ireland
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
- Messages
- 3,966
- Location
- UK, Cannock
Looking at your photo Jack, I just noticed that you have 4 driven rollers as apposed to 2 grooved rollers and 2 flats. Just to be sure, check that the upper rollers are also turned the right way and have the 1.2A showing on the face. There’s a small chance that if the bottom rollers was the wrong way then maybe the two top rollers was also
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
- Messages
- 3,966
- Location
- UK, Cannock
Click the button next to the arrow with points to yes
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
- Messages
- 3,966
- Location
- UK, Cannock
The soot will come as a result of the Magnesium in the wire. You can minimise this by your torch angle. Have a really leading torch angle, in other words aim the gas right Infront of where you want to travel.
Out of interest now you have done a master reset, how many processes can you select by pressing the mode button now, is manual mode available?
Out of interest now you have done a master reset, how many processes can you select by pressing the mode button now, is manual mode available?
Those welds look a lot better now, nice and clean. You might want to play around with Start Current and Start Current time settings as it looks a bit cold at the start.
Have you had a look at the manual, it will explain how to adjust your Crater fill current and Crater fill time.
https://www.spwgroup.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/transmig_320sp.pdf
Have you had a look at the manual, it will explain how to adjust your Crater fill current and Crater fill time.
https://www.spwgroup.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/transmig_320sp.pdf
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,356
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
I know what the gun is as I had the spool gun version of it. So just to ask again, has yours got the in-line control box? In other words does yours have the circuitry it it that takes the power for the guns motor from the welding current?
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,356
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Ok so if that is the case then the wire feed in the gun itself is adjusted via the pot on the bottom of the pistol grip, that means the welder itself is not controlling the guns wire feed speed. In manual and pulse that may be fine but to get things right I would think you would have to adjust the guns wire feed speed as you alter the wire feed speed on the welder, in other words you would have to manually sync the motors unless the pull of the motor is weak. With the spool gun version the pull was strong and the wheels were knurled type.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,356
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
The pot does or at least should work, if it doesn't then there is a fault in it as that is how they are designed to work. The motor takes its voltage/current from the welding lead and you control the speed via the pot.
The reason I didn't think it would work and to an extent still don't, is that the two motors (wire feed in welder and motor in the gun) will not be synchronised. If the welder is trying to push the wire faster than the gun then you will get bunching in the liner, if it is the other way then the welders feed will be getting pulled.
I am not certain if the rollers and clamp in your push-pull are the same as the ones that were in my spool gun but they look very similar, if they are then the clamping is heavy and the rollers knurled and the pull is strong.
With the crater fill and hot start the welder will vary the wire feed speed and with your push-pull it will stay constant so I think you may have issues there. Similarly with double pulse the welders wire feed speed will go between two set speeds but your push-pull will stay constant, so again I can't see how it will work.
If the roller tension in the push pull was weak allowing the wire to slip then it may be fine but time will tell.
The reason I didn't think it would work and to an extent still don't, is that the two motors (wire feed in welder and motor in the gun) will not be synchronised. If the welder is trying to push the wire faster than the gun then you will get bunching in the liner, if it is the other way then the welders feed will be getting pulled.
I am not certain if the rollers and clamp in your push-pull are the same as the ones that were in my spool gun but they look very similar, if they are then the clamping is heavy and the rollers knurled and the pull is strong.
With the crater fill and hot start the welder will vary the wire feed speed and with your push-pull it will stay constant so I think you may have issues there. Similarly with double pulse the welders wire feed speed will go between two set speeds but your push-pull will stay constant, so again I can't see how it will work.
If the roller tension in the push pull was weak allowing the wire to slip then it may be fine but time will tell.
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
- Messages
- 3,966
- Location
- UK, Cannock
You can activate the Hot Start and Crater fill function by pressing the trigger mode button onto latch (4 step), then when you pull the trigger to weld, keep your finger on the trigger, you will have 120% more than your normal welding amps (hot start) you loose the trigger and it will go to your normal welding current then when you want to stop, pull the trigger again and it will activate the crater fill which will for 50% of your normal welding value. It will stay at the crater current until you loose the trigger for the last time
