Settings to run 7018's

[Badger1bear]

Jodie was one of my best students

Lance " chucke2009 " was always messing around in his barn/workshop and did not turn up for class often lol
He did invite me to his BBQ

 

[Kent]

I just give the end a good squeeze with a gloved hand to crumble to cone off...

Ugh? It's the hard tip of stag on the very tip of the recessed metal tip that's the issue with this type of rod, can't see how you could get that off like that, it's not the outside flux

 

[wheresmejumper]

I just give the end a good squeeze with a gloved hand to crumble to cone off...

Yep,works for me too.stubborn rods get tapped off the work piece

 

[HughF]

To be fair I only use 7016 so take what I say with a liberal pinch of salt...

 

[Kent]

To be fair I only use 7016 so take what I say with a liberal pinch of salt...

Its not something I have ever done with any rod to be fair, I dunno if I shall try it or not because I spend enough on new gloves as it is

 

[sardine]

7018's have to be kept very dry don't they ?

Which is another PITA, as well as no good for tacking up.

 

[Kent]

7018's have to be kept very dry don't they ?

Which is another PITA, as well as no good for tacking up.

Yes if you want to take full advantage of the Lo-Hydrogen properties. I think its fair to say many must do as I do which is; open a new sealed box for such then use them up on other non critical stuff. Sometimes I re-dry but storage in a heated quiver is an option but I feel the cost of running it for any real time can negate ant savings.
recently I ended up with a few opened boxes so I gave all but one opened box away.
I do think the 7018 is a better all position rod but like you say tacking up aint too fast

 

[HughF]

tack up with 6010/11

 

[Kent]

To be honest I use a lot of good quality 6013s for general fabrication having no requirement for either high penetration or fast freeze properties. If I was working on open route I should see things different for sure.
Cheap 6013s are actually slightly better if its just for tacking as they light up even easier and I do sometimes have such a requirement were seconds saved adds up to hours. Like blasting the tacks on a fence 7 a post on a 100 posts

 

[Bill Edwards]

Whereas although they can be perfectly OK, I tend to avoid 6013 most of the time in favor of 7018/16 or 6010. But I always like to have some 6013 to hand in case they're needed, but I get on better with the others, even if it's just because they don't tend to favor one side of a joint, which I hate.

 

[HughF]

6013 are hateful things, even with boat loads of arc force...

 

[Bill Edwards]

6013 are hateful things, even with boat loads of arc force...

Don't be like that, they do have their uses:

Stirring paint
Knocking the flux off and using as gas rods
Giving away

Think that's about it?

 

[HughF]

Yeah, pretty much.

 

[Kent]

I am not having that about 6013 its just a reference to the fact that they are so popular the budget stuff floods the market. Favouring one side is uneven flux covering and has nothing to do with rod designation. Fabricating in general terms with MMA it should be the first choice. Get a decent 6013 all positional and you will have no issues

 

[HughF]

Everyone has their opinion, Bill and I think they're **Language** and won't use them, you like them. I'm cool with that. 7016/7018 are easier to run and you can pretty much guarantee a quality weld with no wormholes, 6013 when access or rod angle is poor and you're running the risk of a problem. I've had plenty of enough hood time with both to know what I like as I'm sure you have too.

 

[awemawson]

Do you fellows not use a 'start up block' - lump of metal close to the job to strike up an arc and warm the rod? With the 7018 restart problem just knock it on the block, warm the rod and transfer to the job. This avoids a slag trap or unsightly restart position on the work. For some things the block can be clamped to the work to be more convenient if working away from the bench.

I first met them on my welding course where we always had to use 7018 in the root. They were an absolute pain to use as the instructor insisted we used the oil filled AC welder on the 55v setting. Oh boy did they used to stick on! At home on the 80v setting of my oil filled AC box or on the DC inverter they are fine

 

[HughF]

I just arc up ahead but in line then push back onto the tie in.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I've used 6013 rods for many, many years. It all I was taught with at college, and I frequently come across things I've (successfully) welded over the years with them. They certainly do work.

But perhaps a little over a year ago I tried 7018, and more recently 6010, and vastly prefer them, that's all.

 

[HughF]

Pretty much identical to me then Bill...

 

[Kent]

Horses for courses. Three different rods three different ideal purposes