Sheet rolls re-build

[Kent]

John Stevenson repairs and modifies pump and motor shafts by the truck load and the photos he puts up always show welding around the shaft.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/62713

very good its not the right way to minimise distortion though

 

[Kent]

Trouble is most shafts are turned between centres, and if you bend it with weld then use the centre to turn it the turned part will run true but the rest will run out.

that's not always the case, the rolls in question will have the main body run through the headstock its like 3" Diameter though (hence it wouldn't fit - just) and the welded area turned off, the thicker roll part can be clocked true just out the chuck as can the good part of the thinner end that takes a bush before the gear were the build up took place. If you read the thread I explain this. If you have a mangled end last thing you want to try is putting it to a centre even with a steady firmly in place

 

[Pete.]

I was just making the point that you can't weld it up then turn between centres. There will always be some sort of pull unless you're a robot.

 

[Richard.]

Kent this is a really nice project.
When your done with them I'll give you the address to send them too.

 

[Kent]

I was just making the point that you can't weld it up then turn between centres. There will always be some sort of pull unless you're a robot.

yes there is the process illustrated in the text equalises the pull that the whole reason for it. I used to do a heck of a lot of shafts out of the old Lancashire cotton mills that were bound for export to India etc.

 

[Kent]

Kent this is a really nice project.
When your done with them I'll give you the address to send them too.

swap for the TIG?

 

[Richard.]

Smart ar$e. I should of known better than to try that one on.

 

[Kent]

Ok a little more on the saga. This morning I investigated further on a broken pin in one of the adjustment screws. Here is what I mean by adjustment screw that and were it goes. The issue was wear in the holes creating a shearing action in use (not helped by a load of grinding&grease slurry no dou

bt

 

[Kent]

Do you like the first coats of Red paint to boot, these are Bowland Fabrications corporate colours Any how needed to fill that hole in the threaded part, first to drill it oversize, then set it up to weld (note the copper backing) . Then file it off so it remains a tight fit inside the pulling disc when re-fitted.

 

[Kent]

Ok, now for that top disc ( I didn't fuss about the old holes in that as it wont make it weaker unlike the screw section) just fitted it on as an interference fit and hit it with a couple of TIG tacks on the uppermost face

to hold it steady for drilling through in one go disk and screw top together as it has to rest against the end face of the thread in use

 

[Kent]

Before any machinists tell me what I did wrong please bear in mind my tooling is based around welding and fabrication, so I use what I have at hand. Perhaps in future I might set up that bigger workshop on the front that I have been talking about and get some gear in but for now.. I do know the proper way but this is 3 hrs of non chargeable time this morning alone and I am trying not to spend more than I have to! Well worth it in the end I believe as these old tools are good when fixed up right, many just use them as they find them and do further damage and get stopped on paid work when they fail. Consider though what a tool like this might be to buy new over a grand for sure so I feel its time well spent in the long run.

Got to run out to the town now as I have the right diameter pins but about 1/2" too short

 

[cumbriasteve]

Consider though what a tool like this might be to buy new over a grand for sure so I feel its time well spent in the long run
Also: It's just very nice when finished to look and think 'I saved that' I have done similar in the past where if I charged by the hour it would have worked out twice as expensive as buying new but I know which I got the most fun and satisfaction out of.

 

[eSCHEn]

Looks cracking so far Kent. Really enjoying the thread mate

 

[roofman]

Before any machinists tell me what I did wrong please bear in mind my tooling is based around welding and fabrication, so I use what I have at hand. Perhaps in future I might set up that bigger workshop on the front that I have been talking about and get some gear in but for now.. I do know the proper way but this is 3 hrs of non chargeable time this morning alone and I am trying not to spend more than I have to! Well worth it in the end I believe as these old tools are good when fixed up right, many just use them as they find them and do further damage and get stopped on paid work when they fail. Consider though what a tool like this might be to buy new over a grand for sure so I feel its time well spent in the long run.

Got to run out to the town now as I have the right diameter pins but about 1/2" too short

no need to explain anything matey..you do what you do and thats it!!. Great thread and keep the pics coming

 

[Kent]

Made a start on a frame for the rolls to sit upon this afternoon 80x80x3 SHS just because I had some on the rack. A few interesting issues to overcome in the design, few chalk drawings on the bench top got it all figured out though. Will likely do another update tomorrow as looking at the forecast outside paid work is just not going to happen for a few days

 

[Kent]

Consider though what a tool like this might be to buy new over a grand for sure so I feel its time well spent in the long run
Also: It's just very nice when finished to look and think 'I saved that' I have done similar in the past where if I charged by the hour it would have worked out twice as expensive as buying new but I know which I got the most fun and satisfaction out of.

Well there is that but to be honest if your not on a job time costs nothing. At present I have a few jobs people are not ready for and outside jobs. It costs more to sit on your backside when you could be sorting out the shop which is still a big and slow task but getting there one bite at a time

 

[Kent]

Ok, was on with the stands this morning. Didn't get as far as putting the adjustable feet on as I have yet to find some castors to roll the rolls around the shop and back in the corner out of the way when not in use.

firstly the tops that will pick up the existing hole centres in the casings of the rollers

 

[Kent]

then how those tops went together

 

[Kent]

No, I don't do much MIG welding now! Here they are together, they will both be independent of each other as the rolls themselves square themselves up through two 1" diameter solid bracing bars. My shop is due a re-build and a new floor the current one is anything but level so I can take up any wobble when I put those adjustable feet on

 

[Kent]

For those who are not used to making triangular frames and gussets etc. Remember the 3-4-5 triangle, if the two straight sides are 3 units and four units long the sloping side will be 5 units long. Don't matter what units you use a unit could be an inch or it could be 150mm as long as you stick to the rule.

here is one laid out flat