SteveB58
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Before any aggressive bashing, heating or hydraulics I'd soak it in oil, diesel or similar for about a week.
- Thread starter MattF
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Did that. Also tried heating and soaking.
CwazyWabbit
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Shame you aren't near Surrey, I'd give it a go with my press and some heat.
SteveB58
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Tried shocking it? Heat it up then rapid cooling? But if it is the rusty crud causing it to seize Joepro may be right, soak it in Evaporust for a goodly while.
dannysheff
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now's your chance ranger -- it's still listed at £6grand but he's prepared to consider offers
CwazyWabbit
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Much as I hate to suggest it you might want to try soaking it in vinegar. Electrolysis is more of a line of sight thing and I suspect it hasn't removed the heavy rust that is on the outside of the inner slide where it is sitting in the recess at the back. I haven't explained that very well.
I don't like soaking in vinegar as it can leave a dull finish, but in this case I think it might be a good option, or you could try citric acid.
You'll need to make sure all the oil etc is off the vice first so the acid can get to it.
arther dailey
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@Screwdriver might have an answer , he has done a few
Screwdriver
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Yes, I've had issues splitting one before. Heat and power is the answer.
The trick is to place that power in the right spot. Pressing on the rear exposed part of the moving jaw will eventually mushroom it and you'll never split it apart.
I think if I had a really intransigent unit, I'd make up some fine wedges so that I could gradually prise the jaws apart by hammering those wedges between the two jaw sections. You might even be able to drive wedges with a press for the belt and braces approach. Either way you will also be wanting to get it plenty hot before and during the process. Note when I say a "fine" wedge, I mean a foot long wedge that will only taper by a few mm at most. It will need to be properly engineered to provide parallel pressure (on both sides!) so not just a single wedge on it's own but which fits into an expanding mandrel, shaped to fit inside the jaws (close to the body, not the tip of the jaws).
Lot to be said for "tapping it" with a hammer while it is under pressure remembering that stuck items can also creep so leaving them under pressure for some period of time can also work.
The danger with wedging it is getting the wedges stuck or friction welded inside the workpiece. Engineer that possibility out before you start!
If all else fails and you give up (before you manage to break it), send it to me...
<edit> Be careful with the captive lead nut. If that becomes racked inside the body, it's never coming apart. Worth clearing the inner guide on the moving jaw (which has a long open slot) with a scraper and consider using a threaded rod to help push/pull it at the same time as you're pushing on the body.
The trick is to place that power in the right spot. Pressing on the rear exposed part of the moving jaw will eventually mushroom it and you'll never split it apart.
I think if I had a really intransigent unit, I'd make up some fine wedges so that I could gradually prise the jaws apart by hammering those wedges between the two jaw sections. You might even be able to drive wedges with a press for the belt and braces approach. Either way you will also be wanting to get it plenty hot before and during the process. Note when I say a "fine" wedge, I mean a foot long wedge that will only taper by a few mm at most. It will need to be properly engineered to provide parallel pressure (on both sides!) so not just a single wedge on it's own but which fits into an expanding mandrel, shaped to fit inside the jaws (close to the body, not the tip of the jaws).
Lot to be said for "tapping it" with a hammer while it is under pressure remembering that stuck items can also creep so leaving them under pressure for some period of time can also work.
The danger with wedging it is getting the wedges stuck or friction welded inside the workpiece. Engineer that possibility out before you start!
If all else fails and you give up (before you manage to break it), send it to me...
<edit> Be careful with the captive lead nut. If that becomes racked inside the body, it's never coming apart. Worth clearing the inner guide on the moving jaw (which has a long open slot) with a scraper and consider using a threaded rod to help push/pull it at the same time as you're pushing on the body.
Tried that already. My friendly garage had a part used co2 fire extinguisher that is now a bit closer to empty.
All good advice but I don't have the time or interest to spend much longer on this vice. I think we are all familiar with a project that has overrun and needs to go.
arther dailey
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hmmm, so how much do you want for it ?
Not sure. I think postage would be pricey, possibly making it not worth while. Of course it all depends on whether it can be unseized. I'll weigh it when I get a chance.
Much to my amazement, as the last time I saw it used was 1977/78, everything freed off with only a small amount of effort.
I knew the jaw moved freely, but never noticed the swivel jaw before, and assumed the base was seized up.
The jaw came out smoothly, the base pivot bolt and bush came out so easily I nearly fell over - I was expecting serious resistance that wasn't there. The jaw nut came out easily, The swivel jaw tapered pin came out with a twist with the assistance of some small silsons, the jaw moved with a few heavy taps of a mallet and some lube - rotates smoothly with a bit of effort, but considering I have never seen it move in my life . . . The swivel base lock simply undid, the base easily removed to reveal the T-bolt within.
Still too flippin' big for me though.
Arc Tourist
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Unless you are close to retirement, its better to have the vice's capability and not need it than to need it and not have it, as the saying goes. Think of it this way, the relatively small amount of space it takes up shouldn't be much of a problem; and it doesn't eat or drink so isn't costing you anything.
arther dailey
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I was thinking as is .
Tractor Tony
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Hi Folks
What is a Record 112 in need of TLC worth ?
I am thinking of buying one
What is a Record 112 in need of TLC worth ?
I am thinking of buying one
SteveB58
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You could always repurpose, a nice lamp perhaps or coffee table.
Arc Tourist
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Unusual anvil feature in the first photo, and I'm wondering if the dots shown on the jaws are actually holes for pins to be inserted as another internal or external holding option ?
MattF
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They're merely indentations, not holes.
