- Thread starter Mikey D
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Looks like someone cut through the joist to get the waste in 
brightspark
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yep bedded on with sbr bonding agent . the underside of them trays isnt 100 percent level and possibly the floor isnt . the makers state doing it or the warranty is void
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gaz1
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how deep are your beams and what are they sat upon and whats there length between what there sat uponThanks guys for all your suggestions / advice .
I ordered a new stone resin shower tray today , will be in on Monday , so I'll have a couple of days to remove the screen ( which I'll refit afterwards)
I did contemplate @Pigeon_Droppings2 suggestion to use expanding foam to firm it up from underneathI could drill some holes in the floor boards underneath and inject said foam that way
Nooooo don't worry guys I've seen enough hidden bodges from the last owner /"renovated" . Originally the tray was very slow to drain and you showered in a puddle , ripped the ceiling to expose the waste pipes and they fell the wrong way and were held up with cable ties and other bodges FFS
As you can see from.the picture the underside is just old floor boards so I'll prob rip them out and make a level section with 19 mm plywood View attachment 481132
gaz1
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thanks but it does answer why you have flex in your floor thats why i asked
Free UK Span Table for Domestic Floor Joists to BS 5268-7.1 (C24, 1.5 kN/m² load) - Timber Beam Calculator
www.timberbeamcalculator.co.uk
CornishPete
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They look like decent enough joists, the notch doesn't look too bad to me either! There is a building regulation for notching and drilling joists but the general rules of thumb I follow, handed down by 14 generations of builders before me, are ideally the notch should not be more than about a sixth of the depth of the joist and within the first quarter of the span of the joists from it's bearing. Your only notching a single joist so I'd personally relax those rules without losing sleep over it. Especially if you're overboarding with 3,/4" ply. The tray will come with instructions and I'm pretty sure the stone trays can be used with leg raising kits so they're structurally solid and wouldn't need a full bed. Personally I don't use sand and cement as it doesn't key very well not that I recall it being advised in the instructions, tile adhesive would be better. I think some I've done even just advise silicone. I think mine at home was like this and I used ct1. Hope I never need to take it up!
richie00boy
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All this talk of bedding the tray on cement - I have a leak as identified by small brown stain on the ceiling in the room above the shower cubicle. It appears to be directly under the trap. I was planning to cut a hole in the ceiling to access the trap, but if what you say above is true I'm just going to find a load of cement?
hunter27
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No, the cement is just a thin layer supporting and levelling the shower base, the trap pokes down through a hole in the floor below the base so should be removable so long as it isn't fitted over a joist as in the picture above.
No not necessarily and while it may appear obvious it might not be an issue with the trap.
Morrisman
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My daughter’s rental house has a leaking shower. It’s done it for a long time as the damage to the kitchen ceiling has peen painted over at least once. She called the agent, who said it had been fixed last year…
Another plumber came out, tore off the trim around the edge of the shower tray, then told my daughter she needed to get and a plumber out and get it it re-corked…..
No indication where the leak was, as the trim was not in any way connected to the tray where it would leak.
He also turned it off at the pull switch for some reason, leaving her with no way to shower as she didn’t realise what he had done, until she called me and I suggested it.
Another plumber came out, tore off the trim around the edge of the shower tray, then told my daughter she needed to get and a plumber out and get it it re-corked…..
No indication where the leak was, as the trim was not in any way connected to the tray where it would leak.
He also turned it off at the pull switch for some reason, leaving her with no way to shower as she didn’t realise what he had done, until she called me and I suggested it.
Shower unit or the shower tray?My daughter’s rental house has a leaking shower. It’s done it for a long time as the damage to the kitchen ceiling has peen painted over at least once. She called the agent, who said it had been fixed last year…
Another plumber came out, tore off the trim around the edge of the shower tray, then told my daughter she needed to get and a plumber out and get it it re-corked…..
No indication where the leak was, as the trim was not in any way connected to the tray where it would leak.
He also turned it off at the pull switch for some reason, leaving her with no way to shower as she didn’t realise what he had done, until she called me and I suggested it.
Caulking will be of no use it requires sealant if it is the tray.
richie00boy
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Thanks for the replies. I am aware it may not be the trap (as that's just a lowest point for water to drip off) but it's my main suspicion.
addjunkie
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Pictures…some showers you can access by removing with out getting underneath. Or even tighten them up into tray from above. I cut a hole, found nothing, in the end I got my daughter to have a shower/ wash hair while I was underneath. Leak turned out to be try over flowing and running along outside on the floor, under skirting and down onto ceiling. She moved out, issue went away
Morrisman
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The trim was around the outside edge of the shower tray, so it couldn’t be the source of the leak. There is about a 4” length in one corner totally missing sealant, that I told the daughter to point out to the plumber. That would be right where water runs down the side of the cubicle, and hits the top of the shower tray, what’s behind it is hidden as it’s against the wall.
It looks like the whole shebang was changed out fairly recently, so maybe the owner ponied up the cash to get it all done a dusted….. and it still leaks..
gaz1
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access is still needed no matter what you do
if its been fine for long enough without any water marks what you may find is that the plastic pipe has bowed pulling out of the trap to the shower due to the hot water within the waste pipe
if it is that then its inspection holes and support the waste pipe and a new waste pipe rubber
Every time I read about people having continual leaks in the tray, I'm thankful that a common design of "no sillicon" trays here has a raised lip on the outside of the tray that the doors, sides etc all fit inboard of and there's a few discreet drain channels leading down from where they sit into the tray itself. So you never get leaks in the caulking round the base by design unless the tray itself cracks through completely or its round the trap.
Whenever I have to replace one, I always make sure the tray has this feature.
Whenever I have to replace one, I always make sure the tray has this feature.
