It was knackered anyway. Only left in because it’s structural. Have a nice brand new one in my home office.
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Never an option back then. Plus this one I have is the correct bronze tint.I think you should fit a heated front windscreen!
Ford
Heated Windscreens are available from Ricky Evans Motorsport the leading supplier of motorsport and classic car windscreenswww.heatedwindscreen.com
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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They do bronze, though whether the correct tint?
Ford Sierra Bronze Heated Windscreen | Heated Windscreens
Ford Sierra heated windscreens are available for your Ford car from Ricky Evans Motorsport
www.heatedwindscreen.com
Lots of lads have them in Capris now. Hang fire and I'll get the wiring mods required.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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"Good Morning Clive..
All is well, I do hope you are too ..
Yes I have drawings, at this stage not fully confirmed.. the screen I had for the Capri had split elements, left & right..
I had decided to re-use a Capri HRW switch & relay.. was thinking a while back to fit 2xrelays, 1 per side to allow for failure, and keep the
fuse rating low.. My rusty brain was of the thought that the cranky old Capri screen would draw more power.. I have never checked
I also have the drawing that Heated Windscreens have on their site!
can try these for size..
Keep Safe
Regards
Alan.."
All is well, I do hope you are too ..
Yes I have drawings, at this stage not fully confirmed.. the screen I had for the Capri had split elements, left & right..
I had decided to re-use a Capri HRW switch & relay.. was thinking a while back to fit 2xrelays, 1 per side to allow for failure, and keep the
fuse rating low.. My rusty brain was of the thought that the cranky old Capri screen would draw more power.. I have never checked
I also have the drawing that Heated Windscreens have on their site!
can try these for size..
Keep Safe
Regards
Alan.."
peter wardley
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If I might throw in my two pennuth, I owned a soda last company before selling it on..
And I can tell you that soda blasting does not remove rust! Except fine very very light surface discolouration, it’s too gentle. Paints,primers,filler..no problem, rust wast of time, you need an abrasive action to get back to bare metal, soda is non abrasive.
Also, please be a bit careful of the rotisserie of that type...they rely on structural integrity to hold everything together because they only bolt to the ends of the shell, and if I’m not mistaken at least two of the pics show gaps in the cill areas that are wider at on end than the other usually a sure sign that the shell is flexing across the floor the chills being the anti-banana components. If you need to take significant sections out you need a rotisserie with a spine or similar to maintain the shell dimensions.
I have recently made one for an etype..
See below
Peter Cov
And I can tell you that soda blasting does not remove rust! Except fine very very light surface discolouration, it’s too gentle. Paints,primers,filler..no problem, rust wast of time, you need an abrasive action to get back to bare metal, soda is non abrasive.
Also, please be a bit careful of the rotisserie of that type...they rely on structural integrity to hold everything together because they only bolt to the ends of the shell, and if I’m not mistaken at least two of the pics show gaps in the cill areas that are wider at on end than the other usually a sure sign that the shell is flexing across the floor the chills being the anti-banana components. If you need to take significant sections out you need a rotisserie with a spine or similar to maintain the shell dimensions.
I have recently made one for an etype..
See below
Peter Cov
selectedgrub
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Nice 1st post bridge dweller.
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And last post.
A bit of an update then. Not been doing much with no workshop heater, freezing in there at the mo.
I did take the welder out to sort a gatepost at my brother's house though. Numpty builder cut it off at ground level to get a barrow through the gap, never put it back though. First time I've stick welded since working at Fruehaufs some 38 years ago. Picked up a small pack of Bohler 3.2mm 6013 rods, told the machine what I was using and away it went. Had to put a bit of angle inside the box section to reinforce it and also built up one side cos Mr Numpty Builder managed to actually take 2 cuts and seems to have discarded the small extra bit I needed. Anyway, all good on that front. I have to say this Bohler is a fine machine. The rods were almost just dissolving and that can't be down to my ability, just a very smooth welding machine.
Anyway, first up was a lip which had to be rebuilt.
Followed by some repairs at the bottom of the A post. Not finished here, just the first 2 repair bits glued in. Now have to remove some rusty material from behind them but not wanting to do this until the outer skin is stuck back together.
A repair to the floor where it has to meet the sill and A pillar. This is hidden by the jacking point reinforcement so not dressing back as far as stuff that's on show. Needs some zinc primer before the jack point goes on.
Jacking point reinforcement being shaped ready to go in. Can't fully weld it until I have dealt with the rusty bit on the inside of the lower A pillar and also zinc primed everything it will cover. Just a tack while I bash it around a bit and trim it. The full panel actually goes underneath the chassis section so I'm not going that far. It all looks OK there, pointless taking out good metal and potentially disturbing the alignment of it all.
That's it for now. Probably get to some more come Spring unless I find an affordable heater in the meantime.
I did take the welder out to sort a gatepost at my brother's house though. Numpty builder cut it off at ground level to get a barrow through the gap, never put it back though. First time I've stick welded since working at Fruehaufs some 38 years ago. Picked up a small pack of Bohler 3.2mm 6013 rods, told the machine what I was using and away it went. Had to put a bit of angle inside the box section to reinforce it and also built up one side cos Mr Numpty Builder managed to actually take 2 cuts and seems to have discarded the small extra bit I needed. Anyway, all good on that front. I have to say this Bohler is a fine machine. The rods were almost just dissolving and that can't be down to my ability, just a very smooth welding machine.
Anyway, first up was a lip which had to be rebuilt.
Followed by some repairs at the bottom of the A post. Not finished here, just the first 2 repair bits glued in. Now have to remove some rusty material from behind them but not wanting to do this until the outer skin is stuck back together.
A repair to the floor where it has to meet the sill and A pillar. This is hidden by the jacking point reinforcement so not dressing back as far as stuff that's on show. Needs some zinc primer before the jack point goes on.
Jacking point reinforcement being shaped ready to go in. Can't fully weld it until I have dealt with the rusty bit on the inside of the lower A pillar and also zinc primed everything it will cover. Just a tack while I bash it around a bit and trim it. The full panel actually goes underneath the chassis section so I'm not going that far. It all looks OK there, pointless taking out good metal and potentially disturbing the alignment of it all.
That's it for now. Probably get to some more come Spring unless I find an affordable heater in the meantime.
It's about time I updated this then. Plenty of progress but not so many pictures.
Those seat mount reinforcement plates which were bugging me. Got those sorted. Made one and repaired one.
So the back wheel arch has been difficult on this side. Loads of fiddly bits to make and stitch in. It really did have the tin worm badly this side.
Inner sill fitted and welded in. Also shows where I fitted the floor repair section previously. Still some more welding to do on that bit where it didn't penetrate all the way through for my liking so I'll weld it on the inside as well.
The outer sill was not completely removed as a good bit of it was still good. I had to repair the pressings where the bodykit mounts to but reasonably happy with the outcome.
Started removing the bracing and no nasty tension when I ground the welds off. Hopefully nothing moved during the surgery.
Started scraping off the sound deadening ready to clean up and stick the new stuff in. This is a hateful job, heat gun, scraper and lots of nasty smells, even inside a mask. Still not figured out why the panel has so many perforations though.
So that's where I'm up to. Bits left to do.
A small section on the boot aperture.
A small hole in the sunroof aperture.
Hang doors
Fit bonnet
Refit wings.
Seam sealer where it's needed.
New sound deadening.
And then she's ready for the body shop.
Merry Christmas all.
Those seat mount reinforcement plates which were bugging me. Got those sorted. Made one and repaired one.
So the back wheel arch has been difficult on this side. Loads of fiddly bits to make and stitch in. It really did have the tin worm badly this side.
Inner sill fitted and welded in. Also shows where I fitted the floor repair section previously. Still some more welding to do on that bit where it didn't penetrate all the way through for my liking so I'll weld it on the inside as well.
The outer sill was not completely removed as a good bit of it was still good. I had to repair the pressings where the bodykit mounts to but reasonably happy with the outcome.
Started removing the bracing and no nasty tension when I ground the welds off. Hopefully nothing moved during the surgery.
Started scraping off the sound deadening ready to clean up and stick the new stuff in. This is a hateful job, heat gun, scraper and lots of nasty smells, even inside a mask. Still not figured out why the panel has so many perforations though.
So that's where I'm up to. Bits left to do.
A small section on the boot aperture.
A small hole in the sunroof aperture.
Hang doors
Fit bonnet
Refit wings.
Seam sealer where it's needed.
New sound deadening.
And then she's ready for the body shop.
Merry Christmas all.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,688
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Drain for when the sunroof leaks?
LOL, plausible until you think the perforations were covered in sound deadening so they wouldn’t let the water out.
Question for anyone who might understand the process.
I need some rubber boots for the loom parts where they go through door gaps etc. Not easy to find although I did find this one from some gouging ebayer.
The question is, if I had a pattern part, how easy is it to get more made?
I need some rubber boots for the loom parts where they go through door gaps etc. Not easy to find although I did find this one from some gouging ebayer.
New genuine Ford Sierra 3dr RS Cosworth Tailgate rubber grommet - Xr4i Xr4x4 MK1 | eBay
All Ford Sierra Mk1 models including Rs Cosworth, Xr4i and Xr4x4. (Hatchback models only). The Ford bag is NOT for sale.
www.ebay.co.uk
The question is, if I had a pattern part, how easy is it to get more made?
Just seen this - and the second drawing is how I wired up my first heated screen in my Lancia - when I turned it on, the view distorted . . . telephone wire, viewed through the screen, looked to have a considerable step up and then back down in it.
Wiring in parallel allowed each side to pull so much current, it produced so much heat, the screen distorted! Connecting left and right side in series dropped the current - and the view remained undisturbed.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,688
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Question for anyone who might understand the process.
I need some rubber boots for the loom parts where they go through door gaps etc. Not easy to find although I did find this one from some gouging ebayer.
New genuine Ford Sierra 3dr RS Cosworth Tailgate rubber grommet - Xr4i Xr4x4 MK1 | eBay
All Ford Sierra Mk1 models including Rs Cosworth, Xr4i and Xr4x4. (Hatchback models only). The Ford bag is NOT for sale.www.ebay.co.uk
The question is, if I had a pattern part, how easy is it to get more made?
I wonder could it be 3D printed in TPU?
If you've an old knackered / perished one I could model it and try.
Yep, will get baby bruv to send one over. Worth a try. Happy to part with shekels. Thanks.
stuvy
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Silicone Rubber | Buy Silicone Rubber Products | Polymax UK
Polymax Silicone is of top quality & it is available in various colours & hardness suited for your needs - tubing, sheeting, o rings etc. Visit us for details!
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Spoke to this company about some custom and one off bits they said if it’s made of rubber they can make it
RWD3M
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Yes, it is!!!
Something in the old grey matter tells me this was something to do with frontal impact absorption.
BTW, it may be a bit late now, but a spraying of duck oil will prevent all that surface corrosion on the bare metal. Paint shops don't mind it 'cos it's silicone free.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I've since read there's similar under the sound deadening in the boot on some models.
To the question were they crumple zones, some wag suggested more like crumble zones!
RWD3M
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They did use to fold very easily and resulted in either a write off or, if new enough, a reshell.
