Simple Bracket for QCTP storage.

[Agroshield]

Print a protype (which is what 3d printers were designed for, not production runs)...

There's a huge amount of people making money from 3D printing though, a lot of it from the woodworkers - look on Etsy: track saw enhancements, MFT stuff, paint pyramids, router adaptors, dust collector adaptors, every kind of marking and centring gadget imaginable. All the things they offer would be much nicer if moulded properly and I would not mind paying a premium (maybe 10-20%) for them but maybe the cottage industry route suits buyers better.

I wonder at what quantity the injection moulding becomes more economic, even doing it yourself. Could you guess at the time the mould would take.

The beauty of 3D stuff is if you want things that are 99% the same (e.g. number each holder for its tool).

How can you have variation in professional moulds - e.g. the ones that have the circle with the arrow pointing to the month and year of manufacture?

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Is that fertilzer/moss killer or an accident?

Yes, applied by spraying, next it'll be scarifying, then possibly overseeding and combined feed/weed. It all makes work for the (non)working man to do.

 

[prepman]

There's a huge amount of people making money from 3D printing though, a lot of it from the woodworkers - look on Etsy: track saw enhancements, MFT stuff, paint pyramids, router adaptors, dust collector adaptors, every kind of marking and centring gadget imaginable. All the things they offer would be much nicer if moulded properly and I would not mind paying a premium (maybe 10-20%) for them but maybe the cottage industry route suits buyers better.

I wonder at what quantity the injection moulding becomes more economic, even doing it yourself. Could you guess at the time the mould would take.

The beauty of 3D stuff is if you want things that are 99% the same (e.g. number each holder for its tool).

How can you have variation in professional moulds - e.g. the ones that have the circle with the arrow pointing to the month and year of manufacture?

Did try to get money for some of my designs, out of curiosity but, nada. If I'd had made 50p I would have been chuffed. More out of recognition than anything else. Can't be bothered printing and selling. I was a wholesale trader/importer (failed) before Amazon etc... But that's the place to be. Don't deal with public that way. It all hinges on how you handle disputes/returns.


Ah! Etsy...I remember now, someone was really peed off when he found he'd bought a unique item which was being mass produced.

 

[prepman]

Having to print the pieces in singles now as too many failures in 10 batch. I think the extra infill is causing warping, same as in welding steel as it cools down. So single ones don't cool as much and gives a chance of successive layers to be added.
So slowly slowly.....groan.

 

[Pete.]

Did try to get money for some of my designs, out of curiosity but, nada. If I'd had made 50p I would have been chuffed. More out of recognition than anything else. Can't be bothered printing and selling. I was a wholesale trader/importer (failed) before Amazon etc... But that's the place to be. Don't deal with public that way. It all hinges on how you handle disputes/returns.


Ah! Etsy...I remember now, someone was really peed off when he found he'd bought a unique item which was being mass produced.

You should jump on the lathe chuck spider bandwagon everyone seems to be selling them to witless lathe owners who don't realise that 3d filament printing is fundamentally unsuited for the purpose.

 

[prepman]

You should jump on the lathe chuck spider bandwagon everyone seems to be selling them to witless lathe owners who don't realise that 3d filament printing is fundamentally unsuited for the purpose.

Hmmmm...I could start there...become a proficient swindler....then move into politics?

 

[Hopefuldave]

Printing overnight...came down at 2 am to a big yellow omelette. Obviously hadn't bonded to the table as good as I thought. It's probably the biggest hurdle to overcome, getting adhesion.
I've tried many things over the years and settled on Pritt stick as a prep.
The print time is much longer with 50% infill.

I clean the bed with acetone, follow up with a waft of L'Oreal hairspray (donated by the firstborn - she said it was "too sticky"), not found anything better yet!

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[prepman]

I clean the bed with acetone, follow up with a waft of L'Oreal hairspray (donated by the firstborn - she said it was "too sticky"), not found anything better yet!

Dave H. (the other one)

Yes did try that...with the Prit stic (uhu) you can give a rub over with water to re-vitalise it. The problem here is to stop it curling I'd need to run the bed a lot hotter. Which I don't really want to. Only at 40C. I could crank it up to 80C for say the first 5 layers then drop it back. Trouble is that can also cause detachment. To do them one at a time is not really slower than a batch. The filament lay down is just the same rate. Just a ba*l+ ache.
Got a couple of other printers But in bits. Another Anet A8, but a cheapened version, light weight and another one I started designing with micro-steppers and wifi. That'll have a z axis bed with x & y on gantries. If I ever get around to it. Lost interest. Same goes for my 3d website. I initially got the printer to make patterns for casting, after seeing myfordboy on Youtube. Just too many other things I need to do. Good for winter when I can't get out on the land.
Furnace refractory is shot.
One of the most dangerous things with the Anet was that it didn't have burnout protection for the sensors. The firmware changed fixed that. Seeing the extruder glowing red hot and on fire is quite a thing. Mosfets are still not fitted..in a box somewhere.

 

[ukracer]

You should jump on the lathe chuck spider bandwagon everyone seems to be selling them to witless lathe owners who don't realise that 3d filament printing is fundamentally unsuited for the purpose.

What's a lathe chuck spider?

 

[ukracer]

Having to print the pieces in singles now as too many failures in 10 batch. I think the extra infill is causing warping, same as in welding steel as it cools down. So single ones don't cool as much and gives a chance of successive layers to be added.
So slowly slowly.....groan.

View attachment 338879

What material are you printing?

 

[prepman]

What's a lathe chuck spider?

It holds the jaws in a tightened position so you can get to grind them true. Mainly to remove 'bell-mouth'.
The other one is to stop the bars stock recessing into the headstock barrel for short pieces.
Either I suppose.

 

[prepman]

What material are you printing?

PLA always.

 

[prepman]

I clean the bed with acetone, follow up with a waft of L'Oreal hairspray (donated by the firstborn - she said it was "too sticky"), not found anything better yet!

Dave H. (the other one)

Forgot to mention ..I tried clear lacquer (car finish aerosol) and it didn't work....Wonder if there's a 'magic' ingredient in hair spray that's not in lacquer?
Used the stick on tape (various types).
The UHU stic is water based and non toxic. So one reason for using it.

 

[ajlelectronics]

PLA always.

That needs a bed temperature of 60C. I clean my glass bed with washing up liquid and a nailbrush, followed by a hot rinse and allowed to dry. I never have an adhesion issue now. I found that using Acetone would leave a residue, either melting the plastic fibres in paper towels or spreading the piggin' fabric softener that 'indoors insists on marinating everything in, including the cleaning cloths.

 

[prepman]

If that is the case, would they work as only half the current length with one screw hole? On a sloping board the weight of tool plus holder would keep it located. You might have to store them with the pointy end downwards - will help safety and could improve weight distribution.

My CDO is agitated by the countersunk screw - a keyhole slot in the back for an invisible fixing would calm it down.

Is that OCD not CDO? Tried looking it up and got Collateralized Debt Obligation/

 

[123hotchef]

Is that OCD not CDO? Tried looking it up and got Collateralized Debt Obligation/

its cdo really bad

 

[prepman]

That needs a bed temperature of 60C. I clean my glass bed with washing up liquid and a nailbrush, followed by a hot rinse and allowed to dry. I never have an adhesion issue now. I found that using Acetone would leave a residue, either melting the plastic fibres in paper towels or spreading the piggin' fabric softener that 'indoors insists on marinating everything in, including the cleaning cloths.

Fabric softener....Argh! Don't get me started.....skin rash agent! Sheep's sebaceous excretion.

 

[ukracer]

PLA always.

If you use PLA then all you need is plain glass.
I use 3Dlaq

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but I get the same results on clean glass. A quick swipe across the bed of 3dlaq and it's sticks good enough to pick the printer up with the printed object whilst warm.
Cooled down it comes of easily.

If you get warping with PLA you don't have enough squish...bed might be level but it's squish that matters.

 

[Agroshield]

You should jump on the lathe chuck spider bandwagon everyone seems to be selling them to witless lathe owners who don't realise that 3d filament printing is fundamentally unsuited for the purpose.

Maybe if you try to use them for grinding the jaws, yes. But as a simple means to space parts from the face of the chuck, they are OK.

If you make one like this: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/minilathe/spiders and need to have greater precision of thickness or less compressibility than plastic offers, just drill three holes in it where the part will touch and insert bearing balls. The advantage is that you do not need to remember to remove your spacing parts (although having a parallel whizz past your ear does tend to jog the memory a little).

 

[prepman]

Maybe if you try to use them for grinding the jaws, yes. But as a simple means to space parts from the face of the chuck, they are OK.

If you make one like this: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/minilathe/spiders and need to have greater precision of thickness or less compressibility than plastic offers, just drill three holes in it where the part will touch and insert bearing balls. The advantage is that you do not need to remember to remove your spacing parts (although having a parallel whizz past your ear does tend to jog the memory a little).

Not something I'd use. Piece work would warrant it. I've made a jaw grinder 'doberry ferkin' as I like to call it. Steel disc with 3 equidistant holes, then machine the middle away til they break through. Gives the neccesary clover leaf.