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SiPMerlin150
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SIP have made lots of different variations of their machines over the years. Its certainly looks an older one (more vintage!) SIP were italian made, and finding information on them is rather tricky.
Does it work? Theres a lot going on on the front of that panel!
It looks to be a welder / battery charger combo. and the voltage selector on the side 5v - 12v - 24v
Does it work? Theres a lot going on on the front of that panel!
It looks to be a welder / battery charger combo. and the voltage selector on the side 5v - 12v - 24v
Last edited:
SiPMerlin150
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Yes It looks like a battery charger combo with the charging volts selector, it looks like a 'buzzbox' (AC current) Does it like sticking the rod to the work when striking up?, thats a more apparent problem with AC welding...You get used to it 
I'm not too sure on the switch top left corner, the one with the battery icon with with a lighting bolt in it... Possibly a quick boost/jump start for a car?
Wouldn't want to try it though
I'm not too sure on the switch top left corner, the one with the battery icon with with a lighting bolt in it... Possibly a quick boost/jump start for a car?
Wouldn't want to try it though
pedrobedro
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Switch it to the battery icon, set it to 12 and stick a tester on the leads and you should get about 14v DC out of it if it is a charger as well. AC would not charge batteries. The top switch looks like weld to the left, off in the centre and charge on the right. The small connectors under the adjuster knob will be for battery leads.
Yes It looks like a battery charger combo with the charging volts selector, it looks like a 'buzzbox' (AC current) Does it like sticking the rod to the work when striking up?, thats a more apparent problem with AC welding...You get used to it
I'm not too sure on the switch top left corner, the one with the battery icon with with a lighting bolt in it... Possibly a quick boost/jump start for a car?
Wouldn't want to try it though
yeah it sticks a lot, struggling to get a weld together with it it just seems to build up the metal but not join it, if that makes sense
thanks will try give it ago
rtbcomp
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rtbcomp
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Increase the current - buzzboxes like too much rather than too little current.
Are you using good quality dry rods? It's sometimes easier to strike an arc by pausing for a few seconds between attempts to let the heat from the rod warm the flux coating up a bit.
SiPMerlin150
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Have a look at the writing stamped on the rods, 'E6013' or just 6013 are your typical general welding rods for mild steel, good to learn on!
Getting good quality rods which have been stored correctly are critical. Leave them indoors and somewhere dry and warm. I store mine on top of the boiler where they always stay at a toasty 25-30oC If they have been stored outside in a garage/shed or in the back of a car they can draw in moisture and make a terrible mess when attempting to use them.
Electrodes can be re dryed in a oven for 2 hours or so if you're not sure.
Try some 2.5mm and 3.2mm electrodes.
Getting good quality rods which have been stored correctly are critical. Leave them indoors and somewhere dry and warm. I store mine on top of the boiler where they always stay at a toasty 25-30oC
If they have been stored outside in a garage/shed or in the back of a car they can draw in moisture and make a terrible mess when attempting to use them. Electrodes can be re dryed in a oven for 2 hours or so if you're not sure.
Try some 2.5mm and 3.2mm electrodes.
Paul.
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The 4332 electrodes will be stainless, 7016 is a basic low hydrogen electrode for steel, its possible that none of them will run on that welder, the open circuit voltage (OCV) will only be around 50 volts, many special electrodes require 80 volts to strike and maintain an arc, I would buy some 2.5mm E6013's they should run quite nicely on that machine.
These will do you http://www.weldequip.com/siftrode-6013.htm.
These will do you http://www.weldequip.com/siftrode-6013.htm.
cheers will try get some and see if they are any better thanks
Paul.
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You could try the 4322, they appear to be a rutile steel electrode which should run at 50 volts, you dont say what size they are, measure the diameter of the metal core not the flux, for 2.5's start off at around 90 amps, 3.2's will need around 120 amps, but you may find you blow fuses in the plug especially if you stick. then sit down and read through the tutorials, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htm
Also have a dig through the arc welding forum, loads of threads for beginners in there with some very useful information.
here's one http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=8869
Also have a dig through the arc welding forum, loads of threads for beginners in there with some very useful information.
here's one http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=8869
SiPMerlin150
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Its good!! Ok, yes its not an inverter or it might not have a mega duty cycle, but it has already out lived the average life on an inverter,
and it can be thrown around in the back of a van, run it over with a truck, throw it out of a window, get it damp, bury it in sand etc.. basically after a nuclear apocolypse, it will still be around and work! 
