- Thread starter MICKfoc
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Country Joe
Argoshield Dark
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Just seems to be the colouring of the flux coating.
I've got 6013's that are grey, (Lincoln, I think) and some others that are red, which I think are "Bohler Thyssen"
CJ
I've got 6013's that are grey, (Lincoln, I think) and some others that are red, which I think are "Bohler Thyssen"
CJ
thanks, i just got some red 6013's, also what are 7016's used for? thanks
Country Joe
Argoshield Dark
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- 1,743
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- Somerset - United Kingdom
Basic low-Hydrogen electrodes.
See here:-
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/electrode-classification.htm
And here:-
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wiki/Electrode_Reference_Chart
CJ
thanks a lot mate.
so i got some plate today 1 was 5mm thick the other 8mm, used some 6013 rods and had current set to a quarter on the welder, but all it seemed to do was blister the metal, then we messed around with the welder and rods and we eventually got a bit of a weld together here is a pic, poor quality but was trying to be quick
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Use an angle grinder to grind bright patches on both sides of the plate for the earth clamp.
Grind a clear track back to bright on the plate.
If you have 2.5mm rods set the current to about 80A, for 3.2mm rods set it to about 120A. There's a current scale on top of the welder which moves when you turn the current adjustment knob on the front. You have to adjust the current depending on how the rods behave with you and that welder, but that's a good place to start.
Lay down beads of weld on the clear track you've made. It may take a little practice and experimenting with the current to get it right, start the arc easily and lay down nice even beads without sticking the rod or causing a lot of splatter.
You have to have a good contact for the earth, and if you don't clean back to bright where you are going to weld, you increase the chances of getting grotty welds however good you are.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htm
When you can do that easily and consistently, you can think about joining bits of metal together.
Grind a clear track back to bright on the plate.
If you have 2.5mm rods set the current to about 80A, for 3.2mm rods set it to about 120A. There's a current scale on top of the welder which moves when you turn the current adjustment knob on the front. You have to adjust the current depending on how the rods behave with you and that welder, but that's a good place to start.
Lay down beads of weld on the clear track you've made. It may take a little practice and experimenting with the current to get it right, start the arc easily and lay down nice even beads without sticking the rod or causing a lot of splatter.
You have to have a good contact for the earth, and if you don't clean back to bright where you are going to weld, you increase the chances of getting grotty welds however good you are.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htm
When you can do that easily and consistently, you can think about joining bits of metal together.
It isn't easy to strike the arc and make a decent bead, keeping the angles right and watching the weldpool, keeping the arc gap right and letting that dictate the speed of travel as the rod burns down.
There are a few good tutorials on the www
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTGaHu0Gpxo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWdgEaXWDxQ&feature=related
But, you've got to learn to do it and lay down beads consistently before trying to join metal.
If you can lay down consistent beads after burning 30 rods, you'll be picking it up quickly.
An autodark helmet makes it much easier.
There are a few good tutorials on the www
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTGaHu0Gpxo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWdgEaXWDxQ&feature=related
But, you've got to learn to do it and lay down beads consistently before trying to join metal.
If you can lay down consistent beads after burning 30 rods, you'll be picking it up quickly.
An autodark helmet makes it much easier.
